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Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Thoughts... (Survival?)
- Thread starter Hotrod
- Start date
Pretty good resource for downloading how-to manuals - http://survivalforum.com/modules.php?name=Downloads
Added some new stuff to the list...
Would you guys like for me to add some automotive/nuts and bolts related stuff? Probably not useful for a long term situation, but might help somebody for bugging out...
Thanks again for the posts...
Quick question! How/where do you find lye? Is it a naturally occuring substance? If so... is it something one could obtain in the wild?
Would you guys like for me to add some automotive/nuts and bolts related stuff? Probably not useful for a long term situation, but might help somebody for bugging out...
Thanks again for the posts...
Quick question! How/where do you find lye? Is it a naturally occuring substance? If so... is it something one could obtain in the wild?
Go here, buy the videos or DVDs and learn the basics. The Woodmaster series is basic wilderness survival stuff; the Cave Cooking series seems to be more long term survivalist skills oriented.
Forgive me if his has already been addressed:
About the storage of fuels, I think there is a big problem with the volatiles leaving. I don't think gasoline is much good after 5 years, for example. AMybe pressurized storage would work (but that could be quite dangerous if not done in a properly designed container).
Scott
About the storage of fuels, I think there is a big problem with the volatiles leaving. I don't think gasoline is much good after 5 years, for example. AMybe pressurized storage would work (but that could be quite dangerous if not done in a properly designed container).
Scott
beezaur said:
I dont know about a pressurized storage system... but I do know they make gas cans that are supposed to be able to contain a "Boom" and merely burn... not explode.
I think they call the explosion proof cans. I have a couple, they work well! Galvy with red paint on the outside. The handle has to be pulled back quite a bit to pour it... because the handle is attached to the cap.
They are pretty cool... dont hardly drip when ya pour em!
RokJok
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2000
- Messages
- 4,198
Fuels and fuel storage are one of the considerations for long-term urban or rural survival scenarios, and even in wilderness survival too. For the usual hydro-carbon fuels (gas, diesel fuel, kerosene, propane, heathing oil) there are measures you can implement to insure that the fuel is viable in your time of need. Consumption and rotation of stored fuel or additives like Sta-Bil and PRI (PRI-D for diesel, PRI-G for gasoline), are the easiest steps to do.
Just as some folks plan and buy their battery-powered devices to operate on a single size of batteries, it is wise to minimize the number of fuel types you require to keep your long-term survival plan afloat.
Links to fuel storage info:
http://www.alpharubicon.com/altenergy/gasstoretg.htm
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...r/465775/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/fpart/4
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/fuels/bulletin/longterm_gasoline/
http://www.priproducts.com/tests.htm (gasoline info at bottom of page, most of page is diesel info)
http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/warner43.html
http://www.survivalunlimited.com/fuelstorage/howworks.htm
http://www.houscan.com/generator.html (electrical generator & fuel info)
http://www.adlersantiqueautos.com/articles/winterstorage.html (automobile storage info)
Just as some folks plan and buy their battery-powered devices to operate on a single size of batteries, it is wise to minimize the number of fuel types you require to keep your long-term survival plan afloat.
Links to fuel storage info:
http://www.alpharubicon.com/altenergy/gasstoretg.htm
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...r/465775/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/fpart/4
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/fuels/bulletin/longterm_gasoline/
http://www.priproducts.com/tests.htm (gasoline info at bottom of page, most of page is diesel info)
http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/warner43.html
http://www.survivalunlimited.com/fuelstorage/howworks.htm
http://www.houscan.com/generator.html (electrical generator & fuel info)
http://www.adlersantiqueautos.com/articles/winterstorage.html (automobile storage info)
Thanks Rok Jok, thats a gold mine of information!
I have one comment to add... We all need to have carburetor cleaner on hand. A few gallons is re-useable, drop parts in a metal bucket, pour in enough to cover them. Brush them off... dry em down, and lube with oil. Pour cleaner back into can.
Octane is the rating given for how fast the burn is of a certain fuel. Nitro Methane is around 60, high test gasoline is 91. The thing about octane, is that it lets you advance the timing of an engine. Meaning, you dont have to worry about compression firing the cylinder (dieseling...) because of carbon deposites or superheated corners... or lean conditions with toasted exhuast valves. The key to running low grade gasoline, is to retard the spark timing. On late model engines you do this through the computer, on older stuff you use the distribueter to turn it back. The spark comes in LATER the more retarded the timing is. The more advanced the timing, the sooner the spark. You need the valves closed, you need the piston to be at the top of the swing... or you start beating up bearings... back firing... or lighting your carb on fire in the case of holley carbs!
Healthy engines:
A healthy engine needs a good method of air cleaning. Some people like cotton cloth filters... others use paper elements. The offroad guys like Foam wraps around their cloth filters. This keeps particulate from entering the engine. Sand, dust... fine grit all wear out rings on your engine! They cut into the cylinders verticle slots. Oil, can squirt out a verticle slot... but has a hard time climbing the honed surface of the cylinders on a new engine. You do not want a perfectly polished surface! Worn out rings means blow by... or oil entering the combustion process (big blue cloud) and gas entering the crankcase.
A healthy engine needs a decent ignition system. They need to be protected from the elements. Di-electric grease is used on both ends of the spark plug wires, to keep water off of the contacts that are inside the wire which touch the end of the plug. Spark plugs wear out. A perfectly selected plug will last nearly forever... a plug that is either hot or cold for the engine (cold, bigger gap, hot, smaller gap) makes the electrode erode. Platinum plugs do last longer than standard plugs... they are more expensive... and can sometimes impact how an engine runs. Some cars DONT like them. Stick to name brand plugs... keep the old ones as long as the ceramic is not cracked. If you have points, keep them adjusted... if you have a solid state system (Hall effect sensors for yall geeks...) You need to make sure that the power going to it is not to high for the circut. 6 volt to 12 volt is normally ok for true points... but aftermarket retrofits of HEI ignitions are setup for 12, or 6... keep spares!
You will want to keep these on hand for the ignition system:
Cap
Rotor
Spark plug wires (get a trim to fit... and route them over the valve covers instead of under the motor. You can get wire looms through jegs.com or summitracing.com)
Spark Plugs
Grease (di-electric! Its normally clear... it conducts electricity.)
A Spark plug gap tool (Normally a round disk with sizes. You tap the plug until you get the right gap.)
A spark plug socket (a standard socket, with a rubber sleeve inside, with a wrench flat at the base.) So you dont damage the ceramic.
As far as oil goes... Synthetic lasts longer... as long as its filtered. You want a good filter! AC Delco makes nice ones, Motorcraft makes nice ones... The Oil its self has no shelf life, the cleaners and additives do. 4-5 years is the norm for these. You can still use the oil, but it will "wear out" faster. Oil wears out when the viscosity goes down! Some oils will drop from a 30 weight, to a 15 in 600-700 miles. Diesel oils (cheaper than synthetic... but more than regular oil...) are worth checking out. They have a better additive package... they keep the engine cleaner than normal oil will.
Keep your oil changed! You need to change your oil at 3,000 miles (Or get a hobbs meter and figure out the number of hours you run at 35mph and at 70mph. If you have overdrive... your car will turn about the same number of revolutions doing both. More miles are covered at 70 than 35 though!)
to be continued...
I have one comment to add... We all need to have carburetor cleaner on hand. A few gallons is re-useable, drop parts in a metal bucket, pour in enough to cover them. Brush them off... dry em down, and lube with oil. Pour cleaner back into can.
Octane is the rating given for how fast the burn is of a certain fuel. Nitro Methane is around 60, high test gasoline is 91. The thing about octane, is that it lets you advance the timing of an engine. Meaning, you dont have to worry about compression firing the cylinder (dieseling...) because of carbon deposites or superheated corners... or lean conditions with toasted exhuast valves. The key to running low grade gasoline, is to retard the spark timing. On late model engines you do this through the computer, on older stuff you use the distribueter to turn it back. The spark comes in LATER the more retarded the timing is. The more advanced the timing, the sooner the spark. You need the valves closed, you need the piston to be at the top of the swing... or you start beating up bearings... back firing... or lighting your carb on fire in the case of holley carbs!
Healthy engines:
A healthy engine needs a good method of air cleaning. Some people like cotton cloth filters... others use paper elements. The offroad guys like Foam wraps around their cloth filters. This keeps particulate from entering the engine. Sand, dust... fine grit all wear out rings on your engine! They cut into the cylinders verticle slots. Oil, can squirt out a verticle slot... but has a hard time climbing the honed surface of the cylinders on a new engine. You do not want a perfectly polished surface! Worn out rings means blow by... or oil entering the combustion process (big blue cloud) and gas entering the crankcase.
A healthy engine needs a decent ignition system. They need to be protected from the elements. Di-electric grease is used on both ends of the spark plug wires, to keep water off of the contacts that are inside the wire which touch the end of the plug. Spark plugs wear out. A perfectly selected plug will last nearly forever... a plug that is either hot or cold for the engine (cold, bigger gap, hot, smaller gap) makes the electrode erode. Platinum plugs do last longer than standard plugs... they are more expensive... and can sometimes impact how an engine runs. Some cars DONT like them. Stick to name brand plugs... keep the old ones as long as the ceramic is not cracked. If you have points, keep them adjusted... if you have a solid state system (Hall effect sensors for yall geeks...) You need to make sure that the power going to it is not to high for the circut. 6 volt to 12 volt is normally ok for true points... but aftermarket retrofits of HEI ignitions are setup for 12, or 6... keep spares!
You will want to keep these on hand for the ignition system:
Cap
Rotor
Spark plug wires (get a trim to fit... and route them over the valve covers instead of under the motor. You can get wire looms through jegs.com or summitracing.com)
Spark Plugs
Grease (di-electric! Its normally clear... it conducts electricity.)
A Spark plug gap tool (Normally a round disk with sizes. You tap the plug until you get the right gap.)
A spark plug socket (a standard socket, with a rubber sleeve inside, with a wrench flat at the base.) So you dont damage the ceramic.
As far as oil goes... Synthetic lasts longer... as long as its filtered. You want a good filter! AC Delco makes nice ones, Motorcraft makes nice ones... The Oil its self has no shelf life, the cleaners and additives do. 4-5 years is the norm for these. You can still use the oil, but it will "wear out" faster. Oil wears out when the viscosity goes down! Some oils will drop from a 30 weight, to a 15 in 600-700 miles. Diesel oils (cheaper than synthetic... but more than regular oil...) are worth checking out. They have a better additive package... they keep the engine cleaner than normal oil will.
Keep your oil changed! You need to change your oil at 3,000 miles (Or get a hobbs meter and figure out the number of hours you run at 35mph and at 70mph. If you have overdrive... your car will turn about the same number of revolutions doing both. More miles are covered at 70 than 35 though!)
to be continued...
cool a flashlight that takes more than one sized battery! http://www.thelouisvillechannel.com/technology/3731719/detail.html