Throwing non-throwing knives

F

ffp

Joined
Jul 22, 2013
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Hi. After I throwed my boker automatic mini kalashnikov a few times I noticed that the major problem of throwing non-throwing knives is the blade.
A lot of people says that the lock mechanism would breake, but it keeped strong and tight. But the tip of the blade broke a little bit and only when i missed the target and the knife hit the ground a few times.
So, do you think that a fixed blade would have the stand the same way? Would the tip of a throwing knife break if hit the ground?
What you think about all of this?
 
Any "standard" use knife not designed to be thrown will chip/break/bend, eventually. The hardness of a throwing knife is usually much lower to reduce the likelyhood of chipping/breaking.

Mid to upper 50s and lower 60s for "regular" knives and
Mid 40s to very low 50s for throwing knives, based on what I've read.

As a throwing knife is "less hard", when it bends a little from throwing, it is much easier to bend back straight without additional damage and also tends not to have the tip break off.
 
wertydude37 said:
I don't think you throwed it.

I think you threw it.

*insert actual helpful info here*
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You are absolutely right. Not a native english speaker here...But it's always nice too learn :)

@zzyzzogeton:

So, there is little difference in throwing a fixed blade or an auto knife. Thanks for the info on the hardness
 
Very little difference w/ respect to the blades themselves. Harden steel is harden steel (bypassing the differences in steel types and results in Heat Treating each kind, which I know very little about).

From a CONSTRUCTION stand point, a fixed blade will always hold up better than an auto will -

On one hand, you have a knife with zero moving parts all firmly held in place with pins/bolts/screws/glue/solder/whatever.

On the other hand, you have a knife with multiple parts that move during "normal" operation - blade, activation switch, spring(s), lock mechanism.

If a part of a knife is movable and not "permanently fixed in place", it will be a lot easier and a lot more likely that under the same conditions of use for both types of knives for those movable parts to come off and/or break.
 
Yes, but what I am saying is that both knivesvwould have it's blade broken before it's mechanisms.
 
ffp said:
Yes, but what I am saying is that both knivesvwould have it's blade broken before it's mechanisms.
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Yes I think that is a fair statement in the scope of blade-on-stone or blade-on-metal impacts. In the scope of blade-on-wood impacts (i.e. throwing into a wood target), the mechanism may fail first. I broke the Axis lock on a Benchmade 940 after several hundred throws into a plywood/styrofoam target.
 
Never throw folders.

I have thrown non thrower fixed blades with no ill effects.

I have a GI Tanto from Cold Steel that I have been throwing for more than a decade! No ill effects.


I have a long World War Two bayonet I've been throwing for 28 years. No ill effects.

I have thrown Busse knives with no ill effects (INFI steel is super tough stuff, even at high hardness).
 
I have thrown my automatic mini kal with no il effects except for the blade tip when it hit the ground. The lock didn't have any problem.
 
my main problem in throwing knives that are not specifically made to be thrown is eventually, as you found, you'll throw into a target or ricochet "off center", and the force of the throw itself will cause "blade reverb", in other words, the knife to quiver as it expels the energy from side to side, and that can break a blade. Now, that didn't stop me from throwing "non-throwers', but it did stop me from throwing good ones. I shudder at he thought of anything more than thrift store kitchen knives or cheap CC knives used for that, imo, save your Microtech for what it's intended for, and keep an eye on whatever you throw- be prepared to get the heck out of the way of a ricochet, because they WILL happen.
 
I read not to long ago, if you plan on throwing non throwing knives plan on breaking because they will. Mike
 
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