Thumb Grooves???

L6steel

L6steel

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
5,855
Do you prefer thumb grooves on the back of your knives, folders or fixed blades?? <img src=http://members.aol.com/l6steel/ebay/flag.jpg><img src=http://members.aol.com/l6steel/ebay/gunmn.jpg>

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
You bet L6. On both folders and fixed. Grooves or filework are desireable for work and protective uses. If you need to choke up during utlity work, the thumb stays put especially when there is liquids/ moisture present. Ditto for fix blades to aid in snapcut techniques and thrusting motions. IMO, this is a very much overlooked and desireable/ useful feature in any serious using knife.

L8r,
Nakano
 
Yes, if only as a textured marking. The only think I don't like about my Dozier.

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James Segura
San Francisco, CA


 
Nope.

It may provide finger indexing and if level with the spine aid in utility cutting tasks.

But if it's a raised thumb ramp it cramps my grip with thumb extended, and I don't want to absorb impact from a thrust on my thumb.

I prefer a natural grip and would only have my thumb on the spine for guiding a thrust (which is unlikely). I don't practice snap cuts. Different strokes for different folks.

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Regards,
Ron Knight

Yeah I'm crazy, but what do you want me to do about it
 
Take a look at the handles of folks who really think about prolonged, hard knife use. Look at Moran and Fowler, for starters. You won't see sharp grooves or rough texturing - you'll see form-fitting organic shapes with smooth surfaces, the very opposite of the "tactical" knife these days. These makers know the demands of extended cutting like skinning or meat-packing (far better than I do, I'll readily admit) and they seem to feel that a knife should only cut up its target material, not the user's hand.

I'm not entirely against grooving and such, mind you. I think well-buffed filework or shallow grooving on the spine promotes good thumb purchase without making the hand raw in prolonged use. And for most folders and "defensive" fixed-blades, which will probably see much briefer use, the gains of a rough grip surface may outweigh its tendency to chafe. But look at the pros who know using knives, and you'll see that they confine the sharp bits to the cutting edge of the blade. It's only the worst of the "tactical" folks, IMO, who cover a knife handle with serrations.

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-Corduroy
"Why else would a bear want a pocket?"

Little Bear Knives
Drew Gleason:
adg@student.umass.edu

[This message has been edited by Corduroy (edited 01 November 1999).]
 
I think Corduory has it right. I personally dont care for thumb groves. If you are putting them on by hand and they are just a little bit off it sticks out like a sore thumb. The eye can pick up a mistake very easily. If it is done by a machine it is usually to sharp and hurts the thumb. If I had to I would rather rest my thumb on a wider smooth place on the back of the blade.
 
After reading Corduroy's post, I agree that on long and hard use utility knives I prefer no sharp edges on the handle. For defensive bladeware I do prefer some grooves for the thumb and index finger. Not really on the back of the blade but on the handle itself a la MT Socom for example.
 
The joy of going custom is you get exactly what you want...

After handling my John Richter Lopper (http://home.att.net/~brianturner/Images/Knives/Lopper.jpg) for about a week, I noticed that for any kind of "fine" work, I would choke up on the knife, to where my thumb was resting on the spine of the blade. The knife is big (10.5" blade) and tip heavy, being a lopper (duh!), so having some texturing to grab onto really helps maintain control.

I would not want a textured area to be part of the regular "gripping" surface, owing to my delicate little hands, and to that end, John smoothed down several "hard contact" areas on the handle.

End result - I like having the texturing when and where I need it, but I don't like it to be anywhere that I will spend in full-time contact with the handle.


[This message has been edited by Brian_Turner (edited 01 November 1999).]
 
I put them in when I think they would help you avoid getting your finger near the edge. Especially on my models where there is no fingergrooves or guards.
On the picture you see 5 grooves on top and bottom. This gives you a very clear feeling of the position in the hand

cfdrop.jpg


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Jens Anso, ansoknives@hotmail.com
(check out my homepage)
home6.inet.tele.dk/ansoe/ansoknives


 
Tumb grooves/ramps and finger grooves are the same.

Good, some of the time when done *really* well, but a hindrance most of the time, even then.

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Marion David Poff aka Eye, one can msg me at mdpoff@hotmail.com If I fail to check back with this thread and you want some info, email me.

My site is at: http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Meadows/1770 Including my review of the Kasper AFCK, thougths on the AFCK and interview of Bob Kasper.

"We will either find a way, or make one." Hannibal, 210 B.C.


 
Na. They provide almost no useful obstruction to your hand moving onto the blade. If your grip is slipping, that little bit of gravel ain't goin' to slow it down much. The handle shape/guard should take care of that. All thumb grooves do is make your thumb sore during regular use.
 
Every knife I make to sell from stock has thumb grooves. I have found, that they sell way better for me with them. I have however had customers order them with out thumb grooves. That is no problem, and I am happy to be able to suit there particular interests.

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Lynn Griffith
Available knives now listed on
My website
GriffithKN@aol.com

 
I prefer thumb grooves. I would rather have them with smoothed edges as Corduroy suggests, however in my humble opinion I'd rather have rough grooves than no grooves. That is my only complaint with my Doziers too!
 
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