Thumb serrations?

flatgrinder

flatgrinder

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Dec 20, 2005
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Anyone know how I can make some really fine thumb serrations, if that's what it's called on the top of the blade for traction?

I've made some before using a file, but they were too wide and looked crude.

Anyway to made it finer? Is there a special type of file I should be using? Or is there another way to do it? Jeweler's saw? :confused:

Thanks!
 
You can get a checkering file from a gunsmith supply. I think I got mine from Brownells. They aren't cheap, but they sure do a nice job.

3/16th's
 
Jantz Supply also has the checkering files....in #00 size or 20 lines per inch,
#0 size or 30 lines per inch, #1 or 40 lines per inch.
There was also a an article or online explanation a few years ago wher some maker strapped a Dremel tool with a disc on it to an XY table and positioned the spine he wanted to serrate above the tool and was able to make equidistant serrations in the spine moving the tool an equal distance with the XY table and the passing it thru the blade spine. It was good information but, I apologize, I'll be darned if I can remember who presented it or where it was.
 
You could measure it out and scribe where you want the serrations and then cut them with a band saw.
 
Do you have a mill flatgrinder ? If so, hows about mounting an angle plate to the table. Clamp your blade vertically and use a slotting saw(sometimes called a slitting saw,jewelers saw,screw slotting saw etc.). You can buy them as thin as .010 ( 3" dia. ), control your spacing with either the spindle or the table (depending on what type of mill you have)
 
Checkering file is probably your best bet! heres what 40 lpi look's like.
P1050598_2.jpg
 
Nicely done file work serves the same purpose, it doesn't eat the end off your thumb and it adds to the appearance of the knife.
Jim A.
 
I didnt think the checkering blades would be up to working on steel, but lo and behold. I wonder how long they stay sharp. I guess too if you wanted to knock the rough edges off you could wrap a little sandpaper around the cutter after you get the cuts down. pick a grit. My suggestion was going to be a half round file on edge.
 
I use the 30 lpi, if I remember rite it has 7 or so rows of teeth, so once you start it's pretty easy to put the first tooth in the last couple of gruves and keep going keeping everything straight. I got mine from Jantz or Shiefields one and have been using it a couple of years now. Don't use it on hardened steel, it will wear pretty fast then.
 
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