Ti ATR problem/question

MAXPOWER419

MAXPOWER419

Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
557
So, I just got my favorite knife in Ti, its great, its in new condition. However there seems to be a problem with the pivot. The action at first seemd like any new knife that just needed to be broken in, but after opening and closing multiple times the action seems to be getting stiffer, it seems like the blade is rubbing alot on the washer. When i loosen the pivot it doesnt help, it makes closing the knife a lot smoother, but does nothing for the opening.

So whats the deal? Please help I really want this knife to open and close as smooth as the SS one, and for the price it should

Thanks Guys
-Ryan
 
Quite a few people have said the TI one isn't quite as smooth out of the box as the SS verison is out of the box.

If the problem is only happening when the knife opens, i'm wondering if the problem is somewhere in the area of the lock? Whatever the problem is, it seems to me like the next course of action involves disassembly.
 
The pivot is an eccentric pivot. If the action doesn't clear up on its own, get your trusty T-9 torx driver and change how the pivot is seated until it gives you that satiny action expected on a big bucks folder.
 
thombrogan said:
The pivot is an eccentric pivot. If the action doesn't clear up on its own, get your trusty T-9 torx driver and change how the pivot is seated until it gives you that satiny action expected on a big bucks folder.
Click to expand...


So loosen it up, and move the stud in and out until it feels right, then tighten her down?

Its a sensation i havent felt on a knife before, and the locking mechanism is fine, so it has nothing to do with the lock. It almost feels like the spacer is binding to the blade upon opening, but oddly enough its not present when closing...

Any spyderco reps?

worst case scenario, i just send it in and they fix it right? they will do work on discontinued knives right?

Thanks
-Ryan
 
Shouldn't be a problem. But in this case, it might help to disassemble it yourself and to see what has gotten in there. Just make sure you go easy on the screw heads and don't strip them. You can even avoid really disassembling it. Just loosen all the screws to the point where you can see a gap next to the blade in the pivot and wash out the entire area with WD-40.
 
ok well it looks like im going to be doing some open frame surgery ;) Ive dissassebled the atr before so it should go smooth
 
so heres the deal... for some reason the Ti ATR has these flimsy cheap thin see through orange plastic washers, One is slightly crimped near the pivot hole, i think this is what the problem is. So do I send it in to spyderco for warranty work?
 
Best get on the phone and give them a call. They will suggest a course of action: either they will sent you a washer or they ask you to send it in, but either way this is a small problem to fix. The advantage of them sending you a washer is that the ATR is much quicker back in your pocket.

About the washer: This is no surprise: The switch to PB washers was made after the Ti ATR was discontinued. They are not really "flimsy" either. Think about it this way: the thinner the washer, the smaller the room for compression of said washer. So the thinner the washer the greater the lateral strength. And there is just no way around the fact that Teflon and related materials have the lowest friction coefficient possible. The switch to PB washer was made on ELU request, because it makes pivot and stop pin tension less critical, but it is not, per se, a superior material. As always, it is a trade-off of advantages and disadvantages.
 
Hmmm... good to know. Forgive my ignorance.

HoB said:
Best get on the phone and give them a call. They will suggest a course of action: either they will sent you a washer or they ask you to send it in, but either way this is a small problem to fix. The advantage of them sending you a washer is that the ATR is much quicker back in your pocket.

About the washer: This is no surprise: The switch to PB washers was made after the Ti ATR was discontinued. They are not really "flimsy" either. Think about it this way: the thinner the washer, the smaller the room for compression of said washer. So the thinner the washer the greater the lateral strength. And there is just no way around the fact that Teflon and related materials have the lowest friction coefficient possible. The switch to PB washer was made on ELU request, because it makes pivot and stop pin tension less critical, but it is not, per se, a superior material. As always, it is a trade-off of advantages and disadvantages.
Click to expand...
 
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