ti light angle

i just got some bar keepers friend and some green pads to clean up my stones real good,,guess i'll be stroking the stones for a good while,,,oh and cold steel did not call me back yet
 
i prob did 70 strokes on the points of the brown stones,,and it just started to bring down the angle from the top of the edge of the blade, This is going to take a very long time,,prob hours..i might need the diamond rods,,i think,,,would they work better..i just cant justify 45 bucks plus shipping for a 45 dollar knife i paid $30 for.
 
HEMI 1500 said:
on the points or flats
Click to expand...

Whichever. Do whichever you would normally use first.

HEMI 1500 said:
i prob did 70 strokes on the points of the brown stones,,and it just started to bring down the angle from the top of the edge of the blade, This is going to take a very long time,,prob hours..i might need the diamond rods,,i think,,,would they work better..i just cant justify 45 bucks plus shipping for a 45 dollar knife i paid $30 for.
Click to expand...

It depends where you're sharpening. If you're sure that you're sharpening the edge of the blade (where the bevels meet), then you should eventually knock off the burr. In my experience, AUS-8 loves the burr, and it was a real pain in the ass to get rid of. In fact, I couldn't even really get it off. Make sure you're using light pressure, and just keep at it... Best of luck with that.

If you're hitting the shoulder, then you're reprofiling the bevels, and you'll have to continue for a long time in order to reach the edge. And by a long time, we're talking possibly days, especially with Spyderco ceramic stones.
 
yeah i think im hitting the top of the blade a bit, so i guess im reprofiling that side,,,but i need to do that to make it close to the other side,,,other wise how am i going to make a blade sharp with two very different angles.
Ill try to get some better pictures with the blade orientation close so you can better see what i see
 
If that is the situation, then you'll need to either continue until you reach the very edge (like in this picture)

sharp1.jpg


Or you can turn the knife manually so that it's flush with the rest of the bevels. If you do that, then you're pretty much freehanding (which allows for this type of versatility.)

And by the way, it's fine to have bevels at different angles. There's nothing wrong with that.
 
thanks for that,,now if you remove the black line to the right of the right red line, thats what i have,,,and am trying to bring the far left black line into the far left red line to make everything even,,its just one side that needs major work,,,,,either way its BS,,,im not impressed with cold steel because of this.
 
thanks every one. its going to cold steel as we speak,,i should not have to reprofile a blade that much,,they should have it monday,,and we'll see what they say.
 
Well to be quite honest with you... Either way, there's a very low probability that they're going to sharpen it to EXACTLY 30° or 40°. This means that, say if the angle is 35°, you're going to end up grinding the shoulder again with the 30° setting, or you're going to end up double-beveling at the edge with the 40° angle.

The only way obtain a single bevel is to:

1. Grind away until there is only one bevel.
2. Sharpen freehand at the same angle as the factory (this will put a bit of a convex edge on the knife.)
3. Use some sort of clamp system like the DMT Aligner, Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, etc. that will be able to keep your angle constant.
 
just got the knife back today,,the edge is polished quite nice and cleaned up but no different elsewhere,,,two very different angles from one side to the next,,ill get pics soon....oh and they also sent 5 blow pops. that was a nice touch!!
 
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