Tickle Bone

[P. McKinley]

I just finished this one. I had so much fun doing the Cholla dagger, I went with the rustic flow and had some more fun.
Here's the specs:
Blade: 3 1/8" of Aldo's 1084, etched, blued and polished.
Handle: Cow bone with split leather lacing, two hidden ss pins.
Sheath: Rawhide over wood, fully lined, split leather lacing, leather lined belt loop, and rough-turned bone bead.

Here's a few photos:

 

[rkmoore]

I kinda want to say that I like it. But I'm not sure that I do. The blade itself is great but I'm not a big fan of bone handles. Also, are the scales really yellow or is my monitor acting goofy again?

 

[P. McKinley]

RK - Thanks for the comments.

These are really just some quick shots
The bone is actually a bit browner than what I was able to capture. I'll try for some better shots tomorrow, hopefully in better light.

I worked with some rather new(to me) materials and techniques to make this one - rawhide, rawhide over wood, bone, hidden pins, and a rustic style inspired by other members of this forum. I enjoy the look, but I know it needs refinement.
I know I could, at least, do with a finer grade of rawhide. I used my dog's chew toy one this.

Thanks again.
Peter

 

[tryppyr]

It struck me that you have some pretty big gaps between the scales and the tang... one of the reasons I don't do scales, by the way.

 

[DEllis]

I like the style and think you did a fine job. Maybe a bit of leather dye to darken up the bone a touch??
Sheath looks good.....steal from the dog again next time(but get the dog a milk bone or something to replace it).
Darcy

 

[P. McKinley]

pretty big gaps between the scales and the tang.

My wife is standing over my shoulder as I type and she is snickering at me! She knows that I purposely left the tang a bit rough 'round the edges just to achieve that look. The tang and scales are perfectly flat and the fit-up is tight and solid, but I actually wanted those gaps....................damnit!

DEllis - I dyed the bone with dark brown leather dye, but it didn't take very well. And, while predominantly a shade of yellow, when its in the right light, the scales are a wonderful caramel color. I was just unable capture that with the camera.

Thanks for the comments folks.

Peter

 

[Rick Marchand]

I like it and knowing you, I knew those faux-gaps were intentional. Personally, I would have given it several uneven layers of cold blue, then hit it with a light 2000 grit buff and an oiling. I also would have scuffed the handle and rubbed some heated brown shoe polish into it for accents. Everything in layers.... lay it down, take it off, lay it down, take it off.... that's how you get that "aged look" it doesn't happen in one treatment. It is best to do it AFTER the knife is finished to a high degree. Then all those layers build up as if it would over a long period of time.

I do like it the way it is, though.

 

[P. McKinley]

Personally, I would have given it several uneven layers of cold blue, then hit it with a light 2000 grit buff and an oiling.

I do like it the way it is, though.

Rick - Thanks for the tips. You are one of the masters of this style(in my eyes), so your advice means a lot!
This blade was unevenly coated - with lengthwise strokes - with cold blue, then etched in ferric chloride for about 40 minutes. After cleaning I applied more cold blue(again unevenly) before lightly polishing with 2500 grit around the edges. That's how I got that striped etch. I didn't apply any oil, but I did give it a coat of Conservator's wax.

 

[Bailey Knives]

I acually really like it. I like the unevenness of the handle and finish. We all try for perfection, it is nice to see someone who has a perfectly fit up handle, make it look imperfect.

Keep making them.