Tightening Up An Insingo After Breakdown

Jon Brand said:
No I lay it all out so its perfect before closing. I keep trying to tell you guys all the washers and bushings are in the right place but the pivot is strange
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I am confused by this, the correct method is to tighten all of the screws except the pivot and then push the blade in from the front like he said, not like a sandwich. If you "lay it all out so its perfect before closing" I am thinking that you are putting everything together and then putting it all together at the same time, the incorrect method.
 
JBjunior said:
I am confused by this, the correct method is to tighten all of the screws except the pivot and then push the blade in from the front like he said, not like a sandwich. If you "lay it all out so its perfect before closing" I am thinking that you are putting everything together and then putting it all together at the same time, the incorrect method.
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It is really not fair to say that is the "correct" way and that you're doing it wrong any other way. I personally see the sandwitch method as the best way to do it and I have taken down and assembled my CRK folders a rather large number of times. :)

The knife is new and it is probably a case of noticing the margin that could be covered by wearing it in. The whole point of the bushing is to remove the need to fine tune the pivot like one needs to on the Umnumzaan and 25. If the screws don't snap into place when they bottom out leaving the blade free then there is something not quite right. What that something is is hard to say with out having the knife in hand. I'll also add that I personally have confidence in Jon Brand's ability to assemble the knife properly, he isn't exactly new to quality knives. :p
 
Send it back if you want, but it sounds an awful lot like a pinched washer. If the knife was fine before, and the only difference is in the assembly process...it may be worth a try to at least give the recommended method a shot.

I'm fairly certain that is how they are assembled in Idaho (I've seen it), and the sticky about assembly has comments that are quoted directly from Chris and Anne Reeve.

I used to stack them together like a sandwich too, and it works fine until it doesn't. Using the "slide in" method, it is pretty much impossible to have any human error involved.
 
Here is a theory:

You may have pinched and distorted a washer the first time. This distortion (I.e. Not perfectly flat) causes the same effect as a washer that is way too thick and would result in exactly what you describe.

I'd bet the price of a new set of PB washers that new ones will fix this knife...but yeah, you probably need to send it in if you cannot get it working right without leaving things loose and/or using locker.
 
To me, either something is out of spec with the knife, or it is assembled incorectly. I would try taking it apart a few more times, and if that doesn't remedy the problem, send it in.

I agree there is more than one way to assemble the knife. I just recomend following the instructions when there is a problem to insure that everything is right.
 
Agreed on both counts. I bought a used classic here on BFC that had the same issues (didn't know it when I bought it) and the previous owner had pinched a washer. A quick trip to the spa fixed it up quick.


Another reassembly using the crk recommended method should help diagnose the problem.
 
Jon Brand said:
How long was turn around time? Did you call, email or just send it with a note? How can I get this done the right way?
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Go on their website, print out the warranty form and fill it out. Then box your knife up and send it off to Idaho. They will either call or email you when the knife is processed from shipping and recieving.
 
Not sure why everyone is saying it isn't assembled correctly. It is! If it helps maybe it was this way when I got it. The very first time I unscrewed the pivot it was barely tight. Same as now. Its weird to me.
 
I don't think anyone is doubting your abilities. It's just really easy to have something slightly off, and it sucks having to send a new knife out for service.

Here's hoping your issue is solved with minimal inconvenience.:thumbup:
 
Thank you! I didn't mean to come off how it looked. I appreciate everyone trying to help and I did see how these little things can be misaligned inside the knife.
 
I have five 21s and two of them cannot be fully tightened without binding the knife. On both knives if you bottom the pivot screw, it locks the blade (no there is no pinched washer). I suppose I could sand down the washers to correct this, or send the knives in to CRK, but figure in the end its just giving me more wear. These knives will hit their sweet spot in time. I just use a tiny drop of purple loctite and forget about it. You really only need to disassemble a 21 a couple times a year if that.

There is an expectation that every new CRK is perfect and they most certainly are not. CRK quality control may have had a heyday where every knife leaving Idaho was absolutely perfect, but I think those days are over. I still think for what you pay, they are great value, but you should expect some variability. The good news is they have great customer service, so if your knife is bugging your OCD side, you can send it in to be made mostly perfect.

We of course have all contributed in some way to the present situation by popularizing, purchasing, and promoting the brand so there is huge demand. CRK had a choice to either keep making a few dozen knives a day that were 100% perfect, sharpened and inspected by Chris himself, and let the wait list be years long, or go to making hundreds a day, with a few lemons and some 'nearly perfect' product hitting the street. They chose the latter, which is why there is such a wait time for knife service I would guess.......lots probably come back. They are still committed to 100% perfection, but you might have to buy a slightly flawed knife first, and then send it into them to get to that point of 'CRK perfect'. The most important note is, that if you buy a flawed knife, and then send it to Idaho to get 'perfected', you are still waiting less time, and paying much less money (likely), than if CRK remained a semi-cutom knife shop producing 10 or so 'h' sebenzas a day. The knives are available, and are reasonably priced for what they are. The expectation of out-of-the-box perfection needs to be tempered a little is all.
 
I missed your post where you took it apart 4 more times. It's safe to say something is out of spec. I'd send it in as part of what we pay for with CRK is precision tolerances.
 
Jon Brand said:
The first time I didn't have things in the right place and I fixed it. Now everything is snug and the blade is center, but the action gets tighter when I tighten the pivot.
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unit said:
Here is a theory:

You may have pinched and distorted a washer the first time. This distortion (I.e. Not perfectly flat) causes the same effect as a washer that is way too thick and would result in exactly what you describe.

I'd bet the price of a new set of PB washers that new ones will fix this knife...but yeah, you probably need to send it in if you cannot get it working right without leaving things loose and/or using locker.
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Jon Brand said:
Not sure why everyone is saying it isn't assembled correctly. It is! If it helps maybe it was this way when I got it. The very first time I unscrewed the pivot it was barely tight. Same as now. Its weird to me.
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I'm not suggesting that is isn't! I'm suggesting that the first attempt caused a problem that can only be fixed by replacing the washers.

Good luck, hope you get it sorted out.
 
Try this-
Get some 600 grit 'wet or dry' and spray some WD40 on it.
Take the washers and on each side of both of them.
Do 2, figure 8's on the s'paper on a hard smooth/flat surface.
CLEAN the washers off-
Re-assemble and see if any better--
I think that IF you did 'pinch' a washer at all-You caused a high spot on the washer and that is cause'n the drag.

LG
 
Lumpy, thanks may try it sometime.

Its probably the case then I cause i problem on the washer the first time when I didn't do it right. Its a little better after playing with it alot though, opening and closing it.
 
I'd just send it in if it bugs you too much. The downside of insane tolerances is.... Insane tolerances. No wiggle room. CRK customer service is the best in the biz IMO, and you should have zero qualms about sending it in. I've sent in dozens for various reasons and turn around is reasonable but no one can say exactly how long it will take.
I have over 20 larges and have experienced your issue primarily with the "standard" models periodically. The inlaid and damascus models seem to be perfect every time.
 
I agree with lumpy except for the 600 grit part. I had great success with my 6000 grit stone. couple figure 8's on each washer, assemble and test the stiffness. essentially polishes the washers and takes a very minimal amount of material off compared to 600 grit wet or dry. If wear ever gets to excessive (15 years down the road) same concept applies for the bushing to tighten things up. If you don't feel 100% confident in doing this then of course send it CRK they have fantastic customer service.
 
Highninside3117 said:
I agree with lumpy except for the 600 grit part. I had great success with my 6000 grit stone. couple figure 8's on each washer, assemble and test the stiffness. essentially polishes the washers and takes a very minimal amount of material off compared to 600 grit wet or dry. If wear ever gets to excessive (15 years down the road) same concept applies for the bushing to tighten things up. If you don't feel 100% confident in doing this then of course send it CRK they have fantastic customer service.
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That's WHY-I said 2 passes, each side. 600 w/d is easy to find.
You can then if you want(not really needed)burnish the washers buy rub'n them on some printer paper. That does a nice polish--
LG
 
kidcongo said:
I have five 21s and two of them cannot be fully tightened without binding the knife. On both knives if you bottom the pivot screw, it locks the blade (no there is no pinched washer). I suppose I could sand down the washers to correct this, or send the knives in to CRK, but figure in the end its just giving me more wear. These knives will hit their sweet spot in time. I just use a tiny drop of purple loctite and forget about it. You really only need to disassemble a 21 a couple times a year if that.
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THIS ^^ Had a large that was the same way, eventually wore in the washers with use (and some worry beading ha) and the pivot could be cranked like the rest of my Sebs. They just need a little time to wear in.


No need to sand or even polish the washers. If the action is smooth and lockup is solid, there isn't a problem. Tight really isn't a problem. The washers are sanded at the factory to perfect lockup and action. Yours may just needed a hair more knocked off. But in my experience this will likely work itself out with time. Not worth sending in IMO.


But as unit said, just make sure either washer isn't ever so slightly bent on some flat surface. After pinching one, there is a decent chance you'll have a barely visible bend. If the action is smooth, you likely don't.
 
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