Tiips for masking and blasting a handle

[Fiddleback]

So I finally added a sand blasting cabinet to the shop. Kinda stupid it took me this long. I thought the use of the thing would be pretty much self explanatory, but I'm never quick on the pickup. I've ruined the two handles I messed with. The question then, is how a person masks a handle to get a good looking blasted finish with the proper conrast to the rest of the sanded handle. I've seen this on a lot of knives. I've also seen Ironwood blasted to show the grain, so it almost looks like a muscle, and I'd love to be able to accomplish that. So far though, the finished shape looks wonky with no sex appeal. Additionally, the tape is a nightmare to work with. I've tried electrical tape and blue painters tape. I've been a painter and worked with tape a lot, but these small sections, and curves are giving me fits. I bought glass beads for a finished look, and also crushed glass for more agressive cutting. Right now the crushed glass is loaded in the cabinet.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Wil D.]

I haven't done knife handles but I've been using blast cabinets for years.

A couple things you can try:

For less agressive cutting turn the PSI down (maybe start around 40 PSI) and move the nozzle farther from the work. 8"-12" is the general working distance. If it's not agressive enough leave the PSI low but move closer to the work. If nothing is still happening, raise the PSI 5-10 lbs at a time and try various distances again untill you find what you're looking for.

If it's still too agressive find some aluminum oxide media. You can get it in different grits the same as sandpaper.

Head to the auto department of walmart or the auto parts store and look for a roll of green auto body paint tape. It's "stretchy" to stick to all the curves of body panels and stickier then blue painters tape, but not overly sticky that it will leave a resude. The thinner the roll of tape the easier it will make curves if you're trying to do a pattern on the handle. 1/4" tape would probally work best if you can find it. 1/8" if you're trying something intricate or have alot of curves on the handle.

I usually double or triple layer the tape depending on how much I plan to blast the part I'm working on. The media will eat it away but a few layers usually lasts long enough for most work.

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

I'd consider blasting after your next to last handle finishing grit and then going back and finishing the perimeter of the handle. Blast the front of the scales before glue-up and you will have some room for the tape. (I just wrap with a rag) You can fade the blast in later but that can be tricky.

I'm not really saving any time blasting knives as I take them to a normal finish first but the effect is worth it.