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If forging and hardening was done right you can put your blade in the freezer overnight with out having any problems before tempering and usually gain a couple of points on the RC scale. When blades need to be tempered immediately you are probably doing something wrong, usually overheating them.
This is my experience working with 52100 and quality 5160..
Kevin: you can disagree all you wish, but I suggest that you don't call me wrong and I won't call you wrong, we differ and this is good.
When blades need to be tempered immediately you are probably doing something wrong, usually overheating them.
It is easy to stand on the safety net of tradition when you have volumes of material to fortify your stand
I don't try to explain it, that is for the folks who worship accepted and traditional science, some will seek to know why, others will deny the results. I just know it happens through personal experience
Mr. Fowler -
Just a minor point that, as a scientist myself, I would like to clarify on. You say that Mr. Cashen is relying on 'traditional science' and you are not. In fact, you are both relying on traditional science: Mr. Cashen is calling on theoretical foundations that are backed by experimentation in related areas, whereas you are relying on your own research in the area at hand. As frequently happens in all areas of science, the two do not agree. As always, the answer to this is more experimentation.
Fortunately, this scientific debate has two advantages over others that I have been party to: (1) it is far more civil than many similar debates I've seen in the world of science, and (2) the answer is easily obtainable using methods that the two of you are both familiar with. If the outcome is not what is expected based on the theory, then the theory must be modified.
Happy scienceing!
- Chris
My laboratory consists of materials and tools to test many variables as they influence actual knife performance in venues we feel are important. Aspects of performance that you state make no sense to you.
I could say a lot more, but this pretty much sums up our positions.
....As for a response to the OP. If you're working with hypereutectoid steels (1095, W-1, etc) I believe you're more likely to experience issues here. Of course it also depends on your quench medium to a great extent as well. The more violent the quench, the more stress you generate, the quicker you have to temper. An engineered fast quenching oil will provide the speed you need to properly quench your steel, while reducing much of the stress created by a quenching medium such as water or brine. I'd recommend you go take a look at the working the three steel types sticky for a little more clarity on the differences in the three major types of simple carbon steels.
-d