Time from quench to temper?

Darn it Kevin, why did you open a new ball game?...

...I make knives to make myself happy, each one is a statement of its own, no two have been or ever will be alike, each a learning opportunity for me and those who understand....


Well darn it Ed, then I hope all of your knives make you so happy that you can't wait to share them with a customer who is equally happy! Either way may they bring joy to all concerned. I am going to wish all the best on you whether you want it or not :D.
 
Nathan: I will add what we believe - with the steel we use, when it comes to heat treat nothing happens immediately, maybe 90% does in the first few minutes, but the remaining 10% takes longer, thus our 24 hour cycles.

The example I like to use is:
consider an ant crossing a table, he walks 1/2 way then rests, he then walks half the remaining distance and continues his journey only walking 1/2 the remaining distance each time. How long will it take him to cross the table? The answer is that he never will, always he will still have half way to go. Naturally the distance gets less each time.

I just read an article that discussed the fact that some knives cut better years after they were made. Most of us would lay this to the conversion of retained austenite, but is that the only explanation? One problem testing performance of older blades, you have to consider that the steel may not be the same hardness or have the same toughness that it had 50 years more or less ago.

I feel that your observation is a valid point, thanks for bringing it up.
 
Small side note, largely unrelated:

A commonly recognized Mf for D2 that I have seen is frequently listed as -100F. Obviously that value would depend a lot on the way it was treated, but for arguments sake, lets say you gotta get it -100 to complete your quench. Is that a fair statement?

It is also commonly recognized that a significant delay during your quench can cause the austenite to stabilize or form into a more stable structure that is not martensite. I'm not a metallurgy expert, is that an accurate statement?

In a steel like D2 that already has a tendency to retain significant amounts of RA (I have seen larger values in recent literature suggesting it may be understated in older texts) it seems logical to me that going directly into sub zero before a temper will maximize martensite conversion, at the risk of causing cracks. risk -> reward. Someone please tell me what I'm missing here.

I'm not a metallurgy expert, but it was a subject in my materials classes at NCSU (RIP Armand Cook) and, being an interest of mine I took full advantage to discuss it with my professors, and I spent plenty of hours reading about it in the library (5th floor - M, I still remember). So, while I don't know nearly as much about the subject as some of the people here, I have seen it from the industrial and academic points of view and practiced it later in my tool and die work and something I have learned from all of this is that in industry a steel designed for a ball bearing or stamping die will have more research focused on things like predictable dimensional changes and reduced risk of cracking than fine edge stability.

This leads me back to the point I was making about freezing before temper, which generally goes against most accepted industry practice. My own HT experiments showed that D2 works better if you go all the way to Mf before fiddling around with any kind of snap temper. Perhaps I was doing something wrong? But then the results were duplicated when I got Bos to skip his snap temper (which goes against his standard HT for reasons already listed). Did he also do something wrong?

So, based on both my (admittedly weak) understanding of metallurgy and imperial observations, it is my opinion that some steels should be frozen before tempering when used as a knife rather than a stamping or forming tool because cracking is less likely in a thin object like a blade and issues like toughness in impact and predictable dimensional changes may be less important.

So based on this, I don't think it can be said that all knives should receive a temper immediately. I think it depends on their Mf and their intended use.

For reasons that I do not understand, transformation at Mf that occurs at very low temperatures appears to be less than instantaneous. Perhaps someone could shed light on that for me. Why is cryo a multi hour prospect?

I'm not trying to argue with anybody, I have a lot of respect for everyone here. My eyes and ears are wide open. Please explain what I'm missing here.

Nathan there are some questions that you pose which would take entire threads to themselves to begin to cover. But the quick ones that are pertinent to this discussion can be touched on. The O.P. was in regards to simple carbon steels which would obviously differ from the treatment of an alloy that approaches 12% Cr. As I outlined in my previous post about the lessening effects of oil and then salts, air would be the farthest extreme in quench severity from water, I don't think any amount of rushing to temper would save D2 from problems after a water quench.

I have a couple of different "Mf" for D2 as well and it would entirely depend on the austenitizing temp with as much as 1.5% carbon and all that chrome, V and Mo to play games with it. You certainly have you choice here to leave as much carbon in carbide versus austenite solution that you want. Over austenitizing is what would place you well below room temp for Mf and would be the classic definition of RA. regardless with all that alloying no matter what you do "Mf" would be unrealistic and the best you could hope for is an M% and catching the rest with cryo.

How tempering effects the conversion rates would depend on how careful you were with time and temperature. If you stay well below any temps that would precipitate the tempering carbides there should not be enough diffusion to deplete the austenite of the carbon needed for the shear type distortion to martensite. But heating too much would result in less dramatic carbide and ferrite byproducts and disappointing results in the cryo. An effective snap temper should move the carbon just enough to relax the body centered tetragonal martensite to a bit more stable condition with no significant secondary carbide formation.

The critical part of your question and description is where too many knife discussions fall apart- that is what is meant by “works better”. The D2 “works better” really doesn’t get us anywhere in analyzing the situation. Which property changed by your modified treatment? I may say a sword blade is better from a treatment that ups its impact toughness by 20 ft pounds, but the guy making a skinning knife with the same process would have a real problem with my idea of better. Abrasion resistance can be had in both a relatively soft material as well as a brittle one.

As for martensitic conversion at lower temperatures, the actual creation of a martensite unit is still very rapid, but the momentum in building the required Bain strain may be a bit more accumulative at such low temps, but this is just my throwing a speculative bone to the concept since martensite is certainly an athermal process with no relation to time. Diffusive processes are time and temperature dependant, but martensite is completely diffusionless. If you stop cooling 1075 at M50% that is all you are going to get no matter how long you hold it until it goes cooler. You may want to look into the accelerated precipitation of eta carbide, if carbide precipitation in tempering can affect RA perhaps it provides a destabilizing effect in cryo. If indeed there really is a transformational need for time at temp in cold. But then austenite has a tendency to convert over time at room temp. it is not just thermal energy that can provide the impetus for the Bain strain, a sudden shock can do it as well.
 
The critical part of your question and description is where too many knife discussions fall apart- that is what is meant by “works better”. The D2 “works better” really doesn’t get us anywhere in analyzing the situation. Which property changed by your modified treatment?
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I was trying not to derail conversion with extraneous details and a taller wall of text. I don't have access to an impact tester or metallography tools. I use the (surprisingly nice) hardness tester at the shop next door, but hardness only tells you so much. I'm making value judgments with a (relatively) standardized cutting test. Don't laugh, I get repeatable results that apply directly to how well an edge will hold up and it has contributed a lot to my growth as a maker.

I cut a predetermined about of cardboard, leather and hardwood and observe the edge under magnification during the test. Obviously there are way to many variables to control for this to be a very good test. So I also always run a few "control knives" in with the test and the edge retention of a test knife is compared to the controls throughout the test. So it is kind of like a Mohs hardness test, this mineral scratches that mineral. This edge held up better than that edge. Hardly scientific, but I feel it is very informative if carefully and objectively done.

In this test two identical D2 blades, both at HRC 62, same grinds, same sharpening angles, behave very differently depending on if they got a snap temper. D2 doesn't have the best edge stability and this is an area I'm always trying to improve. At the end of the test the difference in edge stability between the two blades can be seen with the naked eye at an arms length. I've duplicated the test with the test blades, and with additional test blades heat treated by me and by others.

Kevin, if you're interested I can bring some sample blades with me to Atlanta and drop them off at your table if you're curious and want to test some yourself.

I don't know if my "test" is scientific enough for some of you folks. You can laugh me out of the room if you like, but I feel the test is very telling and I would suggest that everyone should have "standards" they test their work against. Otherwise performance impressions are hopelessly subjective.
 
Nathan, folks like you or I should not let others slap us around with the word “scientific” as if it is a pejorative, neither should we allow ourselves to be boxed in by what other people wish to define it as. As a machinist I doubt you would say a micrometer is more “scientific” than a ruler, instead you would realize that it is just more accurate. Your test doesn’t need to be “scientific” it just has to be objective, standardized, consistent and able to identify what it is measuring, yours seems to do that better than many others.

Where you won me over with your test is in observation instead of chasing a subjective definition of sharp, and it is obvious that you had some experience or study in these topics with the use of a control. Most who omit the control make honest mistakes in drawing unreliable conclusions, but others enjoy the advantages of being able to claim spectacular results in the absence of an objective comparison.

In many of my cutting tests I do pretty much the same thing as you- cut a variety of things, not just one material that conveniently make my beliefs look good, and observe the effects under the microscope to note how the edge breaks down. And, of course, edges break down in distinctly different ways depending in the steel, heat treatment and material cut.

D2 is a different beast, definitely different from simple carbon steels, but even different from other air hardening alloys. The carbides in that steel are just plain ornery in their size and distribution and are probably the underlying reason for many steering clear of the alloy. Your test is as narrow as you can get it for now, but the other variables in the processing leading up to it would still offer major hurdles, particularly with D2. I would suggest a heavy focus on the exact mechanism of edge breakdown and the material properties behind it and trace it back from there. Large blocky carbides tend to leave the matrix and create unsharpened gaps, RA tends to deform or allow sections of edge to tear away. Try to determine if the edge wear is ductile or brittle in nature, and even pay attention to how things behave in sharpening, the size of a burr the edge can form can reveal quite a bit about edge strength in these areas. The guy to run your questions by would be Roman Landes, if you could get Roman to talk nice about D2.;)
 
I've never tried Ed's method and don't work with 52100 much, so I figure he knows more about his work than I do. However, I have had a few blades crack just from sitting on the bench overnight after the quench. They were high carbon air hardening steels. I also have a blade that was made in China (not by me) out of a leaf spring, which sat in my display case for years and then cracked just sitting there. My guess is that it was never tempered. It seemed way hard for leaf spring.

I've never had a blade crack going straight to temper as soon as it hits room temp., (or just warm to the touch) after the quench.
 
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Hey guys,

Thanks for all the replies, I never would have imagined my one little question would get so much attention. I guess my more specific question is if it would hurt 1095 or 1075 to sit for about 2 hours after be heated to 1475 held for about 5 min. and then quenched in mcmaster carr 11sec. quenching oil.

Thanks,
Adam
 
Hey guys,

Thanks for all the replies, I never would have imagined my one little question would get so much attention. I guess my more specific question is if it would hurt 1095 or 1075 to sit for about 2 hours after be heated to 1475 held for about 5 min. and then quenched in mcmaster carr 11sec. quenching oil.

Thanks,
Adam

I think that the short answer to your question is yes. It will be fine if you wait two hours.

This is a whole 'nother issue, but you really want to lowball your temps with 1095. Kevin has a great sticky about Hypereutectoid steels that might me the best thing on the internet.

Have fun and let's see the knives when they are done!

-Nick
 
I really like a lot of Ed’s philosophies on art and science and agree with most of it in one way or another. I totally understand taking risks, thinking outside the box, and sticking your neck out once in a while. I differ in that when it comes to “heat treating”, I don’t take a lot of risks, (I take risks is other areas) but I’m not really trying to squeeze every last drop of performance out of any given piece of steel... (or force it). For one thing I’m not absolutely sure exactly what that is… A type of idealism I guess.

I like to leave some margin for error, baby the steel along, just do consistently good sound work in the area HT, and shoot for a very high success rate. I’m for playing it safe with HT, at least under my set of circumstances with the types of shop set up I currently have and the type of work I do.
 
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The more variables we can understand as they influence performance the greater our ability to manipulate them to our advantage. The use of a control blade as a base line for our performance testing provides the opportunity for valid testing results.

I believe that one old time maker who is now deceased and left no informatiion about his heat treat probably shaved automobile piston heads to evaluate cutting perfromance. I have no proof that he used this method, but have tried it and find that it provides a cheap, quik and very revealing index of cut.

Knife function is not rocket science individual knife makers have been testing their knives by using them for millions of years. I strongly believe that developing reliable indexes of performance that are available to the average knifemaker in his shop, simply using a knife as he intends it to be used, for rapid understandable feedback about his methods is one of our greatest opportunities and challenges to advance the art and science of knifemaking.
 
Ed, I like watching science shows on TV, just for pure "entertainment". I always get a good laugh out of them and they are mildly interesting. I was watching one last night and one scientist was accused by another scientist of not talking "real science",... he just responded by saying "everything is science!".

Science has evolved to the point where it is every bit as obscure as art. :)
 
Hey guys,

Thanks for all the replies, I never would have imagined my one little question would get so much attention. I guess my more specific question is if it would hurt 1095 or 1075 to sit for about 2 hours after be heated to 1475 held for about 5 min. and then quenched in mcmaster carr 11sec. quenching oil.

Thanks,
Adam

Oh yes Adam (AA Forge), what are you doing here? Oh yes, I remember now, your simple question about tempering, the actual topic of this thread. I guess one of us could take some time for that as well.

I will assume that you may be asking because of the same reasons many others do, that you need to wait for the oven to reset to a tempering heat. To increase your safety margin with these steels you can induce a bit of autotempering by practicing an interrupted quench in the oil. Do a couple of practice runs with steel approximately the same size as your blade and start at around a 10 second count and pull the blade out. If you have a nice even coating of oil that remains, but just gives off slight wisps of vapor you are about right. If the oil really smokes or burns off to dry, you need to count a couple more seconds. If the blade can be touched with your bare hand then you need to interrupt sooner.

By doing this a significant portion of martensite (hardened stuff) will form and already get some mild tempering from the thermal mass of the blade itself as it slowly cools, this is what is called autotempering. With 1075 as much as 40-50% may form and still get some tempering effects before the blade drops below the tempering range, with 1095 it may be a little less depending on how hot you heated before the quench.

Heck, the blade just sitting there cooling will take up a good 10 minutes or more and but afterwards your blade should be in a much better condition to handle the wait for the oven. I hope this helps.
 
I'm with Kevin on the interrupted quench. I think it's a good practice. It seems kinder to the steel.

It does take more time than most people would probably think, for it to air cool all the way.
 
No need to pee your pants Sam. LOL :D

Dang!

I agree with Kevin AND Ed on lots of stuff.

It takes all kinds in this business... :)
 
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We're ALL "scientists" (and artists),... just scientists (and artists) with different philosophies, perspectives and goals.

One is neither more scientific or less scientific than the other! LOL :D
... and even if they were,... who cares? We're just trying to make knives that we like, for whatever reason we decide... How can you argue with that?... and even if you could why would you?

Are we running some kind of popularity contest here? Hope not! I'm not and I don't think Kevin or Ed are either!

We aren't politicians are we? Hope not.

Science is everything,... and everything is art!
 
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I would really like the opportunity for those of us who chose to do so to meet, make, test and discuss knife function and design. Somehow I do not believe we are as far apart as it seems in many areas.

For Example:
To me the primairy goal is "What for?" in other words what is the intended use of the knife. Once this issue is clearly defined many of our debates would become directed along the same lines. The results of our efforts should and would be obvious.
 
I would really like the opportunity for those of us who chose to do so to meet, make, test and discuss knife function and design. Somehow I do not believe we are as far apart as it seems in many areas.

For Example:
To me the primairy goal is "What for?" in other words what is the intended use of the knife. Once this issue is clearly defined many of our debates would become directed along the same lines. The results of our efforts should and would be obvious.

I agree 100%!

Once we get the "What for?" of it, or as I call it the "individual knife concept",... everything else becomes clear and falls into place naturally.
 
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