Tips for double edges.........

Mace

Mace

Joined
Apr 8, 2003
Messages
2,092
Thought this could be an interesting thread.
What kind of tips and tricks do you guys have for doing double edges.
Forging, grinding, tips....how to keep edges parallel and your center line straight and crisp....etc.
I've done some double edge pieces before and could really benifit from some one elses mistakes along with my own.:thumbup::D

The only tip I can offer right now is to forge the bevels with an equal amount of blows.
Let's hear what you guys got.
Thanks
Mace
 
I find it FAR eaiser to forge as close to finish as possible with double edge blades, then when you grind your lines are already establihsed and straight, you just use them as a guide.
 
Mace,
Depending on the size of the knife larger is tougher, which I'm sure your discovering.
I draw in my center lines and grind the knife like I was grinding 2 different knives. I will put in my lead-in 45deg grind first to make sure the cutting edge is down the center. Then grind till I'm about half way from where I want the grind to finish. You can take more off later, you can't put it back on.
I do both the cutting edge sides first then flip and do the spine sides. If it will be double edged it dose not matter which side you start on.
Once you get it roughed out, heat treat and then go back the grinder.

Now I will grind the top and bottom of one side of the blade till the grind line is centered. Once it's centered don't mess with it! Then flip and do the opposite side. Like anything it takes practice.
Chuck
 
I'm still not quite up to trying a double edged knife, though I've got a few pieces of stock I'm really looking at. personally, I think I'm going to burn up some ipe and make a few wooden training knives that are double edged first.
 
Chuck, I like the tip about grinding the top and bottom of one side till the line is straight.
Oh....and thanks for reminding me that it takes practice.;) Don't I know it brother.:D

Anyone else got some tips??????
Mace
 
Paint the blade blue, lay out all the lines and hold your mouth just right when grinding. "Piece O Cake" :)
 
Especially since I do things more low tech, I'm not sure I have any easy answers that haven't already been given. For me it generally involves almost as much looking as grinding. If you're inclined to take measurements, it doesn't hurt to do so now and then to verify what your eyes are seeing. One of the challenges for me is not just keeping all the lines straight, but making sure I'm taking metal off evenly from both sides as I form the distal taper towards the tip. All the lines can still look straight while one side is still beefier than the other. For that, I find it helps to feel the blade, using my fingers to see as a blind man would. And, don't be afraid to turn off the grinder and use a big flat file once in a while. :eek: This way you can lay the file angling nearly from hilt to tip so you have one continuos flat surface to work with. It will show you right away if there's any dips or high spots.
 
Bruce,
Do you have a picture of how you hold your mouth??????:D
Mace
 
I don't forge but when I made my push dagger from stock removal I heat treated and tempered the blade first. Bruce told me to try this and it worked for me. I do draw out the center on the blade and just start grinding. Check often to see things are even. Use a 4 or 5" wheel. Keep the blade parrallel to the ground. Honestly I didn't think it was incredibly hard. It just takes more time and belts:D.
-John
 
Possum,
Excelent tip on "feeling the blade"..... This is something I do in my shop.

I think the next double edge for me will have all the lines laid out....instead of doing them by eye.;)


Sam, I looked around for some of your work and can't find any on bladeforums. Look foward to seeing some at Ashokan.
Mace
 
I do quite a few double edged pieces, daggers as well as bowies etc. and have tried lots of different methods.. my only tips would be to leave a small flat 'ridge' along the spine of the 2 bevels until the final grind when they are joined. I also do the primary bevel after the secondary one is roughed out, I find it makes it easier to get the center spine right..

here is one I recently finished, bear in mind I'm no expert:)
HPIM1264.jpg
 
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