Tips for using the sharpmaker

All tbis sounds like the classic problem with the sharpmaker. Very few knives match th settings on the sharpmaker. Color the edge of the knife with a permanent marker. Then take a few strokes. The color will be removed where the dtone is actually touching the steel. If the marker is not removed from the whole face of the bevel or just a narrow strip along the very edge, the bevel angle is higher than the sharp maker setting. You will have to cut a new bevel. This will take a long time with the sharpmaker regardless of the steel used.
The diamond stones will eat through most knife blades pretty quick. You can change the bevel to match the sharpmaker in a matter of minutes.
I would say you almost need the diamond stones, because if you try to reprofile a blade using the stones that come with it, you'll have to quit your day job to spend the time necessary to do it.

As for the burr, I have had luck altrenating sides with each stroke for the final step.
I know on the video he says do so many on this side, then switch and do a bunch on the other side; I do this after reprofiling, first with the coarse (or medium grit I think - brown), then with the white. I will then have a mediocre edge with a big burr on one side. I then draw the blade across the edge of my thumbnail which seems to remove the burr, then I use the white stones altrenating sides with each pass. I use literally just the weight of the knife for pressure at this last step. I have only been able to "whittle hair" once (only tried a couple times I guess though), but get what I'd call scary sharp every time (shaves hair/paper as good as a fresh razor blade).
so try that (use the sharpie trick to make sure you're getting all the way to the cutting edge), lots of strokes on brown and white (one side at a time), remove burr with fingernail or wood, finish on white, alternating with little to no pressure.

I've never been able to get a really good edge by doing one side then the other.

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
 
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Imo the diamond rods are not that useful for the sharpmaker. Speed to rebevel depends on the edge thickness as much as the steel. A good dmt or coarse benchstone is faster for rebeveling.

They must have changed the video. Mine says use alternating strokes but its on vhs.
 
I've had really good luck with the diamond sticks on everything except a ZT knife with Elmax steel edge (still worked, just took a while).

I may be wrong on the video, only watched it once a long time ago.
I may be confusing it with something else.
 
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