Titanium Anodizer

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Jan 17, 2006
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I've been checking Mrtitanium's website and the the website from JHowell but I can't find enough anodizer-designs.I would like to make one for myself.Every tip to another site is welcome.Greetz,Bump
 
Greetings,

I just completed my anodizer using information gained here and from various tutorials. I mostly used Jason Howell's info howell anodizing tutorial, then stole the rest from this thread bladeforums homemade anodizer

You will need:
1. Variac (Variable AC?) Transformer. Search eBay for Variac. I bought one like this Variac Transformer
2. Full wave bridge recifier. I got this one from radio shack. radioshack bridge rectifier They have changed the part but kept the same part number. The new ones are 8 amp 400 volt.
3. Power cord to plug into the variac and attach to the wave rectifier. This one would work radioshack power cord
4. Project Box. I connected the wiring to my wave rectifier inside of a project box. I didn't like the idea of it just floating around in the open. I used this size because that's all my local Radio Shack had at the time. radioshack project box
5. Female Binding Post and Banana Jacks. I got fancy and used these. I wanted to be able to disconnect the leads from the box. radioshack binding posts radioshack banana jacks
6. Test Leads. I bought parts at the hardware store and assembled my own, but you could buy them at radio shack if you wanted to. radioshack test leads
7. Suitable sized container to hold your TSP solution. I used a plastic container that I got at K-Mart.
8. Plastic Canvas to line your container so that the anode and cathode don't touch. I got mine at AC Moore crafts. It was in the back of the knitting section.
9. Titanium or stainless steel wire (anode) to suspend the part you want to anodize.
10. Titanium or stainless steel to use as the cathode. As I understand it, the cathode needs to be larger than the part you want to anodize.

It took me quite a while to collect all of this stuff and put it together. After I was finished, some SOB posted the link for this DC Regulated Power Source! :grumpy: webtronics DC Power Supply For just a few dollars more than I spent, with NO Aggravation, you could have what looks like a very nice little DC power supply to anodize with. ARRRG!!!
webtronics_1998_49991724

​
My advice would be to check into this little power unit. If it's what it seems to be, don't waste your time making your own.
 
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Very good advice,
I 've seen this power supply earlier on the a website.Maybe I start looking for it in Europe.Thanks a lot for the info and pictures.
 
I tried out my anodizer tonight and it actually worked. I did brush anodizing. I need to solder the clip to the paint brush because it kept popping off. Everytime the clip fell off, it bumped the guard and blew the fuse in the Variac. I went through the three fuses that came with the variac, but I finished just as the last fuse blew. Two bad the variac doesn't have a circuit breaker. Here is a picture showing the guard and pin I anodized.

bocote_o1_web.jpg
 
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Very nice handle.The colors really match.How do you grind that handle ?
I'm looking for a technique to grind this shape on a folder but I' ve had many ways without good result.Is this been done by slack belt grinding or by using a hollow jigg behind your grinding belt?
 
Greetings,

I shaped the handle on my Bader BIII. I removed the flat platen and slack ground between the wheels. I used the top 2" wheel to make the curve at the bottom of the handle.
B3_9PLATEN_FIN0091.jpg

Since my blade was etched I wanted the tang to be too. If I etched and then shaped the handle, the grinder would have removed the etch. So I temporarily attached the handle material with hidden pins and rubber cement. Then I shaped the handle normally. When I had it all set, I removed the handles. In the past I have had trouble with wooden handles shrinking and exposing a sharp edge on full tang knives. I don't know if Bocote will shrink, so I sanded and buffed the edges of the tang. Then I etched them in ferric chloride. When that was done I installed one hidden pin and the exposed pin, then I epoxied the handles in place.

While anodizing the guard I managed to put a couple of light scratches on the blade. I sanded them out and re-etched the blade. I discovered that the ferric chloride did not effect the anodizing.

smily344.gif
 
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Nice grinder.Are you holding the handle in your hands while slack grinding or do you use a fixed setup to keep your handle straigth into the belt.I tried it once but I had trouble to manage the handle straight into the belt at the right angle.the thickness of the handle wasn't equal after grinding.Are you using 2 inch belts?
 
Thanks. I just hold the handle in my hands while I'm shaping it. I mostly have the knife going horizontal, but I turn it as needed. I use 2"x72" belts, and I usually run the belt over one side of the platen or the other to help get into the curves. Since I'm using a slack belt I don't worry about the angles. I just keep rolling the handle as I grind so that I get smooth curves. It's usually easier if you knock off any sharp corners before you start rounding things over. You can do that easily on either the flat platen or on one of the wheels. I have my best luck by periodically checking the handle by holding it in my hand and seeing how it feels. Once it fits comfortably in my hand, its done except for the final sanding and finishing. I hope this helps.

smily1335.gif
 
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Yes. In the old days we called it the 'shoe shine' because we'd clamp the knife blade and then shoe shine the handles with a piece of sandpaper progressively getting to finer and finer grits, turning the knife around and then clamping it flat on one side and on the other until the final polish.

Makes for a real nice smooth finish. Good job on the knife. Anodizing is a fun thing to do and very satisfying. I really like the look on peoples faces when they see it and want to know how you made it so pretty.

STR
 
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