Titanium Skinner - Project #3

tryppyr

tryppyr

Joined
Feb 5, 2010
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A while back I mentioned that a friend had given me a small bar of titanium allow (I don't know the mix, but I do know it contains some magnesium). The dims on the bar were 6.25" x 1.75" x 0.5".

I wanted to post a few work-in-progress shots so that friend could see what's happening to the bar. I mentioned in another thread that I'd finished roughing out the shape. Now I've begun the file work, but am nowhere near completion. It's starting to look like a knife... a very rough knife. Still, I like where it's going.

Knife3-1.JPG


Knife3-3.JPG
 
I've just spent a few hours straightening out the line at the intersection of the handle/guard and the blade (using a needle file). Flat and square files are being used to hone down the top (fat) part of the blade to get a clean line. I've decided to channel out the handle section and mount a piece of redwood burl (provided by Burl Source, thank you very much) in the channel.

We'll see if I'm really up to that challenge...

In the meantime, I have two other projects running, and countless distractions to deal with (both at work and at home).

I'm starting to be VERY envious of you who do this sort of thing for a living. It's much more peaceful and rewarding work than the way I make money.

- Greg
 
I don't want to rain on your parade(or your knife), but I hope you know that titanium is too soft to hold an edge. It cannot be heat treated to make it harder either. The knife looks good and will work fine as a one time "stick something" tool, but won't hold an edge well enough to cut stuff. Most people use it for bolsters, guards or folder frames since it is very tough and light. It can also be anodized numerous colors and even just heat colored.
Seems like you are having fun so keep it up. Be sure to post pics when you are finished.
Chip Kunkle
 
If you have the patience to make it out of one piece of Ti, you'll be great with flat bar! Keep going and keep the knife as your first.

Frank Barron
 
Hi Chip. Yeah, I knew that when I started. This chunk of metal was a gift from a friend who bade me make something from it... so that's what I'm doing. I was never expecting this to be a useful knife... just an oddity.

And yeah, I'll hang onto it, Frank. I'm learning a lot by making this one. I did the channeling on one side of the handle. Man, it looks ROUGH now. I had to use the drill press to remove as much material as I could from the channel, and use the Dremel to grind between the holes and begin straightening the edge. I'll probably use the needle files to finish it. And to think when I'm done with this side, I can start all over on the other side.

A couple more images to show the progress.

Knife3-4.JPG


Knife3-5.JPG
 
You're doing GREAT!

I know it is apparently common knowledge titanium won't make a good knife, but there's at least one fella, George Lambert, who thinks and does different. He makes self-sharpening titanium fillet knives, http://titanknifetech.com/. His knife was reviewed in a recent issue of Blade.
 
yeah you could get it TiN pvd coated and it might actually work if you only sharpen one side. Considering all the work you have put in why not (unless you like the bare Ti look)
 
Today I needle filed the side I drilled out last night, and it looks pretty decent, but still needs some cleaning up. I drilled out the other side and used the dremel to take down the hills to the level of the valley, and will needle file it tomorrow.

I also took a small piece of the redwood burl and soaked it in Minwax Wood Hardener, just to see what would happen. I'm not satisfied with the result. It's not bad, but it's not good enough. I'm going to try to burnish a piece this weekend and see if that gets the look I'm going for.

- Greg
 
Yesterday I picked up some thin CA and debonder. Today I finished roughing out the channel on the right side of the handle. I cut two suitably sized pieces of the redwood burl and burnished them lightly so I could decide whether that will do for the handle. I'm pretty happy with the results, so I'll mark out the basic shape (leaving a little extra room in case I go nuts with the needle files in the channels) and sand then down to about the right levels.

One question for the experts... how do you decide the layout of the scales? Do you try to maximize the burl curls? Do you try to maximize the areas of grain interest? Or is it more about making a pattern match left to right? In my case, pattern match might be irrellevant, since the sides won't even be close to coming into contact with one another... but again, I'm curious how you folks decide on layout.

I still haven't decided whether I want to use liners or not. I'm leaning toward not using them, but the answer will probably be clearer after I see the wood sitting in the channel.

I'll probably take pictures later today or tomorrow, once things look a bit less rough. Here's a couple of pics of the burl:

Burl1.JPG


Burl2.JPG


- Greg
 
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I decided on how to cut the pieces from the scales. They are, at present, oversized, but this will give you an idea of where it will end up. I decided to try pattern matching, as best I could under the circumstances.

DSCN5045.JPG
 
After working for hours on the wood handle inserts, I've come up with two inserts that have BEAUTIFUL grain patterns that are pretty well matched... and then decided that I really can't use them unless I more than double the depth of the channels. Moreover, I'm finding it very difficult to shape the wood perfectly to fit in the channel. And in order to get it to the right stand-off from the base I'd have to make the piece so thin it would be easily broken.

On a whim, I decided to try another material in the channel... a piece of thick black leather. It's much easier to cut that to shape and it fits nicely in the channel. I like the way it looks too. I'm not 100% committed to this approach yet, but it is the current favorite. I'm thinking I'll try it out and see if the look and feel are right before I make the final decision. If I go with leather, it will need to be matched to the sheath, of course.

- Greg
 
Have you considered. . . In high school, I used to make jewelry for the girls. My art teacher showed me a technique of mixing ebony dust (sand it with 80 grit till you have a nice pile) with epoxy. You could do the same with black dye. Then pour the epoxy in and use it as a filler for the handles. You might want to drill a hole in some wood and practice first, but it can turn out real nice looking.
 
As it turns out, I have a piece of stabilized ebony that I'll be working soon for another project... the "Dark Lady" project. I may give that method a try and see how it looks.

- Greg
 
A tip, if I might: Once you mix and pour the epoxy, don't touch it. Put it on something that vibrates, it will help remove the bubbles. Only vibrate in the first half of hardening.
 
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