TNT-15 Sword Point Of Balance . . . Why We Used 1/4" Thick Steel.

D

dbusse

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Sep 27, 2016
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Why did we use 1/4" thick steel for the TNT-15 instead of 3/16" thick? Using 1/4" thick steel significantly raises the cost of materials and manufacture.

So, why do it? Many people believe that lighter weight is better because it's faster. But that's not necessarily true.

After quite a bit of research we found that 2-3 inches in front of the hilt was the ideal sweet spot for a sword as far as "point of balance" was concerned.

The point of balance on the new TNT-15 is approximately 2 3/4" from the hilt making it fall into the perfect location.

With 3/16" thick steel the point of balance was closer to the 1 inch mark. Great for a machete but NOT for a sword.

The article below really sums up the importance and location of a sword's point of balance.

You can either read the attached article or click on the link to read it.

Long live the brotherhood of the Yard,

Dumpster Dan


www.martialartswords.com

What Is a Sword's Point of Balance and Why Does It Matter?

From traditional Japanese swords like the katana and wakizashi to Korean swords like the geom and Ssangsudo, all swords have a point of balance. Typically found a few inches up the blade (from the hilt), it plays an important role in the sword's versatility and overall performance...
www.martialartswords.com www.martialartswords.com


Sword%20Balance-XL.jpg
 
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Great article Dan!
The explaination is appreciated and I can't wait to test out mine.
 
I like the config. What really caught my attention was the 1 swing rope cut, of a free hanging rope, not under tension? Might be wrong, but I would think the key there is all about speed. Add the slight hollow and thinner blade? Impressive on the rope for me.
 
i can appreciate this, i was thinking that that the optimal POB might be related to the blade length length itself. For a 24" katana blade I can see the 2-3" balance above hilt feeling better compared to a 16" waki. Maybe roughly 12% blade length above the hilt would be a sweet spot for most swords? I imagine one handed vs 2 handed might made a difference in it too

Either way im in for 2 of these guys 😉.
 
While a 0.20" INFI version would certainly still goose me in my parts, this is an awesome enough package that I might have to break my "no more uncoated SR101" vow.
 
Ok that is interesting. I echo Grizzle's thoughts though on a blade that is primarily one- handed. Probably better buy one and find out! Can always add a distal taper if it seems necessary . . .
 
Look like this will still be ~3oz lighter than my g10 Rucki and nowhere near as blade heavy as something like the CG BB13 (which I love as a ferocious chopper). By choking up or back on the generous Rucki handle you can shift how far forward the balance point is. At least against air, I felt like I could appreciate what Dan was saying about the sweet spot. Should be a great blade imo.

Here’s another cool sword article for anyone who wants to read deeper on some of the physics:

swordstem.com

Center of Percussion? Vibration Node? Balance Point? What does it all mean? - Sword STEM

Learn a little more about some of the physical properties of swords, and why you are probably using terms like 'Center of Percussion' incorrectly.
swordstem.com swordstem.com
 
Private Klink said:
I was actually hoping for a thinner blade but this will be awesome anyway. 😉:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I think it's a great price for a fun piece, and will buy one. I suspect it's more optimized for bashing stuff up than as an actual weapon, and that a significantly more nimble version would result from either thinner stock, a full height grind or a large fuller. But lets see. My main hope is that the edge won't be optimized for bashing cinder blocks, and will actually cut.
 
Oh you guys with your point of balance and all that fancy stuff.

I am just here for the big fancy hats with feathers :)

Unguard...........ha * swish swish swish *............. have at you ;)

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