to convex or not to convex

[richard j]

jimwalter, if you have a bench grinder and there is a woodcraft store close by go see if they have any seperate slotted paper wheels and get one of them instead of a strop. you can touch up an edge in a few seconds no matter if it is a convex or v edge or serrated. the grit wheel that comes in a kit only does a v edge.

 

[Bowxpress]

going too fine is similar to a wire edge. i have talked to quite a few other knifemakers and sharpening service owners who say the same thing. sure the knife will cut soft material but when you really need it to cut (harder items) the edge will either roll or slide (like seat belts or certain kinds of rope) depending on what you are cutting. since you have the wheels give this a try. work up a burr with an 80 grit abrasive and remove it with the slotted wheel. that edge will shave and be real toothy too. i have been meaning to work up a burr on a concrete block and then go to the slotted wheel and see what that edge is like just for fun (on a junk knife of course ).

I strop mine to 6k, and never have problems, field dress 6-7 big game animals a year, split bone--(not a lot of items harder than that)---skin, and process meat, my edge has never failed.....

O.P. Go for it.. convex away.. if your not holding your bevel at a precise angle every time you sharpen its going to end up a convex sooner or later.

 

[Buzzbait]

On another note, good to see Buzzbait back around. Haven't seen you post in a long time.

I'm like a bad penny. I keep turning up!!!!

It has been a long time though.

 

[jimwalter]

Thanks for all the replies
just to solidify my understanding:
it is always edge first until you get to the honing stage then it is always edge trailing?
when using sandpaper you still get a burr?

 

[CrimsonTideShooter]

you might want to start out with a coarser grit to make the job go a little faster. i would start out with a 280 grit to work the shoulder down and once you do that go to the next finer grit. i never go over 400 grit on any knife i sharpen. taking an edge too fine is just like having a wire thin edge. if you need to cut something like a seat belt the edge will just slide. i have put edges on knives with an 80 grit belt and had them treetop hairs before but i finished the edge off with the slotted paper wheel.

you can see some blades i convexed in this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585019

I don't understand this at all. I take most of my edges to 6000 grit and beyond on stones, and never once have one of my edges slipped off rope or anything else. (or seatbelt for that matter, I actually have cut a LOT of that stuff)

I have heard this over and over, and to me it just doesn't make sense. I make youtube videos almost daily showing myself slicing sisal rope with a polished edge, and it isn't weak, and it sure ain't sliding off the material.

There is so much contention surrounding polished vs toothy that I think a lot of misinformation gets spread around.

 

[pwet]

what would be veeeeeery funny would be to ask someone who prefer polished sending to a "neutral" fellow their best take at "coarse" sharpening and vice versa.

i'm 99% sure that the toothy guy will send a rounded polished edge and the polished guy will send a burred toothy edge.

you're right on that, both work, both cut, neither fail, slide or whatever when they are well done. they just don't work the same. i prefer polished edge but i do both, one of my scandi customs (tlim from poland, NC6 steel ht'ed to bainite, very good inexpensive custom workhorse) is actually sharpened on the flat side of my 60 grit naniwa stone flattener (SiC) the edge is a pain to get crisp but it works pretty well. won't push cut but slices well. all my kitchen knives (japanese carbon and tool steels for 95%) are sharpened to 10K naniwa SS and maintained on a strop loaded with HA CrO.