To D2 or Not to D2

[bikerector]

He is a welder/mechanic/farmer/fixer, the first time he is out on the tractor or under a piece of equipment and needs to use the knife a little rough and doesn’t have a screw driver handy, he will use the blade, D2 or not. It’s a tool for him, not a knife guy, but he’s not trying to break it on purpose either. That last blade is either the third or fourth blade the knife has had counting the original in over 30 years of daily use, it’s the first one he has broke the blade (always breaks the tip). The other blades eventually just got worn away. This last 420HC blade lasted about two years I would guess. Another item of note for you Buck guys, the sheath I bought him when I had the last blade put in is now worn out, going to have to replace it. The original USA sheath lasted a long, long time, the new Mexican sheaths don’t compare.

Not sure if that had a clip or drop point, a drop point will help keep the tip around. If he's wearing blades down a lot like the previous ones (not the most recent break) then D2 for sure. It will resist wear a lot more than 420HC. Tips would still break and all that of course but you would be hard pressed to wear the blade away like the 420HC unless the blade is chipping out a lot (something I've not experience with any of my knives in any design or steel).

 

[afishhunter]

He is a welder/mechanic/farmer/fixer, the first time he is out on the tractor or under a piece of equipment and needs to use the knife a little rough and doesn’t have a screw driver handy, he will use the blade, D2 or not. It’s a tool for him, not a knife guy, but he’s not trying to break it on purpose either. That last blade is either the third or fourth blade the knife has had counting the original in over 30 years of daily use, it’s the first one he has broke the blade (always breaks the tip)

Maybe replace the blade with D2, and get him something like a Leatherman 300 Super Tool to pair up with it?
An upholstery shop or something could sew up a dual sheath using leather or a high thread count nylon canvas easy enough.

 

[Old Hunter]

In addition to fixing his 112 I'd try to also find an old Camillus, Schrade, Utica, Klein, etc. Electricians Pocketknife - they have a fairly stout screwdriver blade that locks in place. That might help (or even a Swiss Army Knife, an old Swiss Buck if you can find one on the secondary market). OH

 

[Rebel Nimrod]

Not sure if that had a clip or drop point, a drop point will help keep the tip around. If he's wearing blades down a lot like the previous ones (not the most recent break) then D2 for sure. It will resist wear a lot more than 420HC. Tips would still break and all that of course but you would be hard pressed to wear the blade away like the 420HC unless the blade is chipping out a lot (something I've not experience with any of my knives in any design or steel).

Sorry, I guess it’s a little hard to tell from the picture what tip it had , it was a standard 420HC Clip Point. It would probably be more accurate to say he sharpened the blades away and you are right, D2 wouldn’t need sharping as much should last longer!

 

[Rebel Nimrod]

Maybe replace the blade with D2, and get him something like a Leatherman 300 Super Tool to pair up with it?
An upholstery shop or something could sew up a dual sheath using leather or a high thread count nylon canvas easy enough.

I could certainly suggest a leatherman to him, in addition to his 112 he always carries a small pair of snap-on pliers in his back pocket because they are so handy and quick to use. Some others had suggested a small prybar, I doubt he would carry one, but maybe if it fit in the sheath??

 

[Rebel Nimrod]

In addition to fixing his 112 I'd try to also find an old Camillus, Schrade, Utica, Klein, etc. Electricians Pocketknife - they have a fairly stout screwdriver blade that locks in place. That might help (or even a Swiss Army Knife, an old Swiss Buck if you can find one on the secondary market). OH

Y’all are full of good ideas, great suggestion!

 

[Wardo46]

... Another item of note for you Buck guys, the sheath I bought him when I had the last blade put in is now worn out, going to have to replace it. The original USA sheath lasted a long, long time, the new Mexican sheaths don’t compare.

That's disappointing to hear.

 

[bikerector]

I could certainly suggest a leatherman to him, in addition to his 112 he always carries a small pair of snap-on pliers in his back pocket because they are so handy and quick to use. Some others had suggested a small prybar, I doubt he would carry one, but maybe if it fit in the sheath??

For a durable sheath at a fair price and from a buck fanatic Makael has been doing some nice things for forum members lately. He does custom work so he may be able to work in a prybar for you. I have 3 from him now that are doing pretty well though they're far from many years of use but the build and material quality is pretty good.

 

[Rebel Nimrod]

That's disappointing to hear.

Please note that he is on his side and back a lot sliding in and out from under equipment etc., so he’s probably harder on a sheath than most. He had repaired the original sheath with brass rivets to keep it together so long. I don’t know about Bucks current USA made leather sheaths, the newer one I was referring to was Mexican made.

 

[Rebel Nimrod]

For a durable sheath at a fair price and from a buck fanatic Makael has been doing some nice things for forum members lately. He does custom work so he may be able to work in a prybar for you. I have 3 from him now that are doing pretty well though they're far from many years of use but the build and material quality is pretty good.

Oh I have seen the pictures of the BEAUTIFUL sheaths he makes!!!

 

[Wardo46]

Please note that he is on his side and back a lot sliding in and out from under equipment etc., so he’s probably harder on a sheath than most. He had repaired the original sheath with brass rivets to keep it together so long. I don’t know about Bucks current USA made leather sheaths, the newer one I was referring to was Mexican made.

I was referring to the newer Mexican-made sheaths also. I'm not certain but I think the 100 series fixed-blades all now come with a Mexican-made sheath. Sorry to hear the sheaths are not as good quality as the older US-made ones.

 

[Rebel Nimrod]

I was referring to the newer Mexican-made sheaths also. I'm not certain but I think the 100 series fixed-blades all now come with a Mexican-made sheath. Sorry to hear the sheaths are not as good quality as the older US-made ones.

You would think leather is leather, but there is a difference. Hey, not may things today are as good as the older US-made stuff! (except Buck Knives!)

 

[Makael]

lets fire one up and give it a test.

 

[Old Hunter]

Far and away the nicest custom sheath I have ever owned: a Makael built sheath with my Buck 119. OH

 

[jbmonkey]

Far and away the nicest custom sheath I have ever owned: a Makael built sheath with my Buck 119. OH

very nice Sir. interesting dual cross strap design there. you asked for it or a Mak concept you liked?

 

[Makael]

I've done a couple like that. Saw it online somewhere. Very cool design.


Most custom knife. Tricked out buckmaster.


Joe Housers buckmaster.

 

[bikerector]

I've done a couple like that. Saw it online somewhere. Very cool design.


Most custom knife. Tricked out buckmaster.


Joe Housers buckmaster.
View attachment 981450

So much awesomeness here.

 

[pinnah]

View attachment 978273
I’m helping my uncle get his 112 blade replaced and considering two options. As you can see he is hard on knives, so I am trying to decide if I should just pay Buck to put another 420HC hollow ground blade in it or use the D2 flat ground blade from a spare lil’ Jack. I’m thinking the flat ground D2 would be a significantly more durable blade. What has been your experience with D2 vs 420HC as far as toughness?

I actually love seeing pictures like this. They remind of an old Bob Loveless quote something to the effect of that knives are tools and when we forget that, we've lost the right perspective.

I've seen a knife broken like this by a buddy who is a GC/carpenter. The issue is work hardening of the blade and over time, it gets brittle and snaps. I rather doubt that any change in grind or steel will result in a significant improvement in the life expectancy of a blade used in this manner.

Note, I don't think this is "abuse". Just a working man using his knife like a working man does.

In terms of grinds and profiles, I prefer flat grinds over hollow knives for hard work. They work wood better (for me) and are thicker behind the edge and thus don't roll edges as easily. I also vastly prefer drop points to clip points. These are just preferences.

In terms of steels, I think it depends on the kind of things he's cutting, how wet the conditions are and his approach to sharpening.

Fine grained steels like 420HC and 5160 sharpen easily, take a keen edge for wood working but wear down fast cutting abrasive materials like rope and cardboard.

Carbide rich steels like the old 440C and D2 stand up to abrasive cutting longer but take more work to sharpen (for me, anyhow).

Tool steels like D2 and 5160 take some amount of maintenance to prevent rusting and corrosion.

All that to say, choose the steel that fits him best.

Lastly, I'm glad he's using the 112 and not a plastic framed knife. IMO, if he's using a knife that hard, he'd likely wear out pivots or frames on a lighter framed knife.

Multi-tools are an interesting discussion onto itself. I think the Leatherman Wave is a solid choice but there are so many options out there. It's like choosing another man's underwear.

 

[Rebel Nimrod]

I actually love seeing pictures like this. They remind of an old Bob Loveless quote something to the effect of that knives are tools and when we forget that, we've lost the right perspective.

I've seen a knife broken like this by a buddy who is a GC/carpenter. The issue is work hardening of the blade and over time, it gets brittle and snaps. I rather doubt that any change in grind or steel will result in a significant improvement in the life expectancy of a blade used in this manner.

Note, I don't think this is "abuse". Just a working man using his knife like a working man does.

In terms of grinds and profiles, I prefer flat grinds over hollow knives for hard work. They work wood better (for me) and are thicker behind the edge and thus don't roll edges as easily. I also vastly prefer drop points to clip points. These are just preferences.

In terms of steels, I think it depends on the kind of things he's cutting, how wet the conditions are and his approach to sharpening.

Fine grained steels like 420HC and 5160 sharpen easily, take a keen edge for wood working but wear down fast cutting abrasive materials like rope and cardboard.

Carbide rich steels like the old 440C and D2 stand up to abrasive cutting longer but take more work to sharpen (for me, anyhow).

Tool steels like D2 and 5160 take some amount of maintenance to prevent rusting and corrosion.

All that to say, choose the steel that fits him best.

Lastly, I'm glad he's using the 112 and not a plastic framed knife. IMO, if he's using a knife that hard, he'd likely wear out pivots or frames on a lighter framed knife.

Multi-tools are an interesting discussion onto itself. I think the Leatherman Wave is a solid choice but there are so many options out there. It's like choosing another man's underwear.

I really enjoyed your post and can’t find one thing I would disagree with! Thanks

 

[st8yd]

I actually love seeing pictures like this. They remind of an old Bob Loveless quote something to the effect of that knives are tools and when we forget that, we've lost the right perspective.

I've seen a knife broken like this by a buddy who is a GC/carpenter. The issue is work hardening of the blade and over time, it gets brittle and snaps. I rather doubt that any change in grind or steel will result in a significant improvement in the life expectancy of a blade used in this manner.

Note, I don't think this is "abuse". Just a working man using his knife like a working man does.

In terms of grinds and profiles, I prefer flat grinds over hollow knives for hard work. They work wood better (for me) and are thicker behind the edge and thus don't roll edges as easily. I also vastly prefer drop points to clip points. These are just preferences.

Tool steels like D2 and 5160 take some amount of maintenance to prevent rusting and corrosion.


Lastly, I'm glad he's using the 112 and not a plastic framed knife. IMO, if he's using a knife that hard, he'd likely wear out pivots or frames on a lighter framed knife.

A knife broke like that is plain, flat out abuse, may have not been intended, but abuse none the less.

I have the same profession as your buddy and have never came close to that with a knife and I do abuse tools and often knives also, but not much anymore as I hate breaking tips. I have been in the heat of the moment and wind up using something at hand vs proper tool and it almost always winds up costing you more sooner or later. So as I get older I try to make sure I have the right tool at hand, or at least I tell myself that, lol.

Flat grind or hollow grind has nothing to do with the edge rolling.