To Flatten Sambar Stag

kc custom

kc custom

Joined
Apr 20, 2005
Messages
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This is a project I've been working on for a number of years. With Sambar and other good
stag getting harder to get I gave it a shot. While this more pertains to folders it will work
with any smaller thin handled knives.
The biggest problem with stag seems to be useable pieces. While it can split laterally done this
way its also easy to repair the split. The 2 pieces far right are what I call gutted stag, (pith
removed). Very hard rolling boil for at least 20 min.- 10 seconds or less to clamping between
blocks in a vise, have the vise and blocks ready. Clamp for two days at least (dry time)
I then sand the backs as flat as possible and load the hollows with CA Thick. On a planer
blade or flat surface - waxed paper and a layer of thin muslin cloth over the waxed paper, lay
the CA loaded scales on the muslin and clamp both ends. Flood all 4 sides with thin CA being
careful not to get it on the bark and let dry for at least a day.
I have scales done this way 4 years old that have never moved still in the scale form. Its nice
to be able to use stag that is flat and not godawful thick. The muslin blends well with most stag
and adds a tremendous amount of strength. The dye job after is up to you. Yeah its a lot of work
but then nice thin flat useable stag isn't that easy to find. Will try to answer any questions. Ken.
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Ken , I guess my hard head is just not comprehending the part where they are clamped on the wax paper . Would you have a picture or maybe explain it more to a dummy what that step involves again .
Thanks
 
After they have been clamped flat between 2 blocks take them out and flatten the backs as much as
you can. The wax paper is on a very flat surface to prevent the muslin cloth and CA from sticking-
not the original clamping blocks that are for immediately out of the boiling water. Will try to post a pic of
the gutted pieces clamped up in a day or so.
Ken.
 
Very interesting! I understand enough about straightening antler, that I think I understand what you are saying. However visual aids never hurt. I would love to see some pics of the entire process you are using. Flat useful pieces are always most desirable, especially when you are talking about expensive materials like Stag!
 
Ken,

have the pieces that are in the center of the picture been flattened from pieces that are "gutted" such as the two pieced pictured on the far right? Have you flattened any without using the muslin?
Hope to see a few more pictures also, thanks for sharing this process.
 
More pics will be coming, cooking some right now. Ken yes all the ones in the pic are from
rounds no bigger in diameter than the 2 gutted pieces. You can thin down any part of it to
make it flex more. Yes I have done them without the muslin and just CA mixed with a slurry
of bone dust with the same result, though if you end up with a line at the liner the muslin
looks better.
Ken.
 
Thanks for posting this. I have some elk antler that might be a good candidate for this process.
Phil
 
Do you put the potassium permanganate in the boiling water? if so, how much? Where can it be bought?

- Paul Meske
 
lonepine said:
Do you put the potassium permanganate in the boiling water? if so, how much? Where can it be bought?
- Paul Meske
Click to expand...

No you do not put the PP in the boiling water, its used as a dye after all of the process for the dark brown bark
color. In WIS. you can buy it a Fleet Farm our local one carries it, water heater area of the store $20 for 5#.
The pp is going to be a brilliant purple when mixed with water turning to the dark brown once its applied to the antler.
Ken.
 
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What do you use to get the " gutted " pieces so clean ? I drill out as much as I can then use a round rasp , but thats a slow process and not near that clean .
 
These pics start with the die grinder I use to "gut" the stag. Next is the heat lamp clamp up
after the one in the vise. Finally the one with the CA and finished scales. Ken.
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102_0595.jpg
 
Ken Thanks so much for this information.

Do you submerge the finished scale in the PP or just apply liberally on top with a brush? I guess I'm asking does the PP effect the bond of the muslin in any way?
 
The heat lamp actually dries the stag before the CA part of the process, No I don't immerse the stag
in the PP but I've done some pretty destructive tests and "untreated stag seems to fail at a glue joint
before the flattened stuff.
Ken.
 
Ken , I have researched die grinders and die grinder accessaries and have found nothing that resembles your gear looking cutting tool . Did you make it or where could it be found ?
Thanks
 
I built the bit for the die grinder, same ones I use for jigging bone, Ats-34 left "ice hard.
When I started doing bone I wasn't happy with anything out there so------ they are
aggressive and dangerous wouldn't want one wrapped up in my hand.
Ken.
 
Ken , I will stop trying to locate one and try to make it . Thanks for sharing this as I really like using horn but have not had much success making my own scales . I`m looking forward to trying this .
 
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