To granton or not to granton?

Specifically I am looking at the Victorinox 8" chef. They are available with or without grantons. I thought I would pick one of these up to get me by until I decide on a "nice" chef's knife for me. It would also be something the other cook's in my house could use.
 
they make it easier to remove some foods when slicing, but overall I haven't noticed a lot of "enhanced performance" in the home setting.
If I was a professional cook/chef, I may be more impressed with them.
If the price is close to the same, it might be worth trying it out - if there is a big difference in price, I wouldn't bother.
 
Thanks. They aren't very much more and I did read some complaints about food sticking to the plain Victorinix's.
 
Grantons are thicker behind the edge, and have a much shorter lifetime. And look awful.
 
Also it's worth noting that so-called "granton" edges are NOT true Granton Knives-style edges. The "fluting" of the blade extends all the way to the cutting edge on true Grantons, and they alternate side to side with the terminal wall of one side aligning with the initial wall of the next on the side opposite.

N24622E.jpg
 
I use a Granton edge curved boning knife - Messermeister.

The alternating grinds result in effectively a thinner edge
geometry while retaining strength.

I really like it.

I do also have a Granton edge flexible smoked salmon slicer,
I buy my smoke salmon sliced now, so it doesn't get used much.

I don't bother so much with my general purpose knives,
I don't find that food sticks to my Victorinox chef knives at all.
 
As a Chef who uses knives all day, the graton edge really is only useful if you are slicing something like a whole ham for deli meat or a whole ribeye into steaks. With most cooking knives it comes down to techniq and sharpness. Most of the time where a graton would be useful the user has not perfected the skill to do the cut like slicing smoked salmon or anything that is delicate and needs a long smooth draw for a thin slice.
 
^Are you referring to a "granton" edge or a true Granton™ edge made by Granton Knives of the UK? There's a substantial difference between the common lowercase version and the genuine article, which I can't say as I have any experience with.
 
^Are you referring to a "granton" edge or a true Granton™ edge made by Granton Knives of the UK? There's a substantial difference between the common lowercase version and the genuine article, which I can't say as I have any experience with.
 
^Are you referring to a "granton" edge or a true Granton™ edge made by Granton Knives of the UK? There's a substantial difference between the common lowercase version and the genuine article, which I can't say as I have any experience with.

i didn't know that, I learn something new everyday :)

the real Granton edge looks like a good idea, little alternating hollow grinds.
 
The way I see it the "granton" edges out there really just reduce sticking during the slice because less surface area is making contact with the fruit or vegetable thanks to the little air pockets created by the grinds. On a true Granton you ALSO don't have food stick to the blade after it's cut since the alternating grinds go all the way down to the edge, preventing sticking due to vacuum since air can readily displace the sliced food.
 
The way I see it the "granton" edges out there really just reduce sticking during the slice because less surface area is making contact with the fruit or vegetable thanks to the little air pockets created by the grinds. On a true Granton you ALSO don't have food stick to the blade after it's cut since the alternating grinds go all the way down to the edge, preventing sticking due to vacuum since air can readily displace the sliced food.

IMO, stiction is 3rd on performance attribute. 1st & 2nd work together as alternating between thin and thick edge for given angle. 1st to improve cutting, 2nd the thick (transition part between granton) part keeps cuttingboard penetration shallow, therefore protecting the thin parts of the edge. 4th keeps edge straight - allow push & slice cuts and allow easy sharpening & steeling, whereas serrated edge has a few annoying limitations.
 
Good point--I hadn't considered the vacillation of the grind angle with regards to adhesion. I don't think the thin parts of the edge are at all protected, however, as I was under the impression that the alternating grinds on true Granton align with each other? Haven't handled the genuine article in person, though, so i could be wrong. I always thought it was almost like having alternating left- and right-handed chisel grinds with their edges aligned with each other.
 
Most kitchen knives dulled (even damaged) from impact with the cutting board (I am talking about proper knife usage - not hacking bones). The thick parts promote shallower cutting board penetration, which indirectly protecting the thin parts. I would question ;) the designer of true-granton edge if the edge is actually alternating left and right :confused: chisel edge grind.
 
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I wasn't saying that I literally think that it's alternating chisel grinds--that's just the closest analogy I can think of that concisely describes what I've postulated given their description and depiction. I guess I'm just not sure quite what you mean about thick vs. thin parts, then, as the edge is still like that of a plain edge and is therefore of equal edge geometry along the length--it just has the bevel running up the "thick-side" face and less so on the opposite.
 
Sorry FortyTwo, I didn't meant to be curt. It is hard to visualize and describe an object in space. I drawn up a rough image looking head-on at the unsharpen edge.

granton.png


Once a sharpened, the thick part has 2 complete bevel faces, and at the thinest part it has much less than 2 bevel faces. So the thick part (area) will wedge more, i.e edge bounce back more, which minimize the edge penetration into the cuttingboard.
 
Sorry FortyTwo, I didn't meant to be curt. It is hard to visualize and describe an object in space. I drawn up a rough image looking head-on at the unsharpen edge.

granton.png


Once a sharpened, the thick part has 2 complete bevel faces, and at the thinest part it has much less than 2 bevel faces. So the thick part (area) will wedge more, i.e edge bounce back more, which minimize the edge penetration into the cuttingboard.

Ok--see I'm thinking that it's either possible for that to be the case OR for the spacing to be slightly closer together, which would eliminate the pronounced "thick" region. The thing is that while the grinds might produce that effect, though, since it's sharpened like a conventional knife and not like serrations the actual effective edge angle is uniform along the entire length, so I don't think it would minimize board penetration. After all, lowered board penetration would also lead to decreased cutting efficacy on food. Instead of the "thick/thin" comparison it might be more suitable to think of it as "normal/extra thin" as the overall primary grind should be like that of a usual culinary knife (of whatever pattern) and the fluting is additional selective thinning.

Again, of course, this is all conjecture without actually seeing one in person. How frustrating! I'll have to write the company to see if they have any better photos.
 
After google-fu around, you're right about these granton designs, I was thinking of another edge geometry variation. I had (gave away) a shun santoku vg-10 with granton edge, it didn't release foods any better than a normal chef edge. lol, yet another mod-granton.
 
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