to hell with it...gonna sharpen my way

B

bigjim

Joined
May 7, 2005
Messages
434
I have been screwing around for a month now trying to fit in with the click
going for that convex edge.....Useing this stone .... No wait gotta use this other stone... no wait ceramic...yeah thats the ticket...No wait...sand paper.....:barf:

These dang khuks are hard to sharpen evenly along the entire length of the blade.

So I went back to basics...

1. Got out the course diamond rod. Thinned the edge back some and hogged off a good bit of metal until I had a good even bevel on one side and a healthy burr along the entire edge Flipped it over and did the same on the other side.

2. Grabbed a finer yet still course ceramic rod the triangular one from Spyderco. Refined the edge some on each side.

3. Stropped in good with some abrasive on a flat piece of cardboard. To remove and burr left.

4. Got the fine Spyderco rod and polished the bevel on both sides.

5. With that same fine rod I increased the angle for three passes on each side to produce a microbevel.

Start to finish 25 mins and AT LAST I have a edge. :eek:

Yeah thats right....a conventional easy, to touch up, plain old fashioned edge.

There I said it..... I am out of the closet.
 
Good for you.

I've battled those damn khuks many nights.
My father taught me how to sharpen a knife with a stone. It is only when I return in ease to what he said that I sharpen well. For me, anyway, sharpening is an art. Some days I get a great edge. Other days, I know to stay away.

Having said all that, bigjim, some khuks actually perform better with a saber grind than a convex edge.

I look at what the khuk has on it already and do that. If it's not convex, slowly, over a period of months or years, it is sharpened gradually to become more so.

I use what is there.
You know, this brings to mind a thought I have about my villager. This 20" AK doesn't want to stay sharp long. I'll have to study it awhile. Course, the fact I beat the living ythuXXX out of it might have something to do with that.

Get yourself a sandpaper paddle with a foam backing on it. Put fine sandpaper in it, 1000 or 800 grit.

Select a khuk you're willing to experiment with and play with that. You'll see.


munk
 
As a woodworker you've got to embrace sharpening. Plus I have the love for steel. Munk siad it. Sharpening is an art. Been doing something else Munk recommended on my Khuks. Dowells, leather,and either compound or paper. I couldn't figure out how to use a stone on my Khukuri. I'd have had to go buy round stones. Hell with that. I spent too much money on the stones I already have. You've gotta be able to do both bevels, convex and traditional (or whatever you call it). Chisels and plane irons have to have a traditional edge on them. I have nice water stones for that, but I've also got a good plate of 3/8" x 12" x 12" glass and use paper on it for more area. I thought Munks idea of the dowell and the leather was great. I've also made up a couple with thin styrofoam sheets glued to them. Works great on Khuks if you wanted that convex bevel. Bigjim, did you try out that edge yet. Let us know how much of an improvement you've seen.

Andy
 
Jim, sometimes you have to go with what you know. I use sandpaper and a steel for khuk sharpening. I can get a pretty good edge on them but it took a while to get the knack down. Lately I've been going back every week or so to touch up the edges on my earlier projects. Its a learning experience for me.

Bob
 
Too soft/thick of a backing and the paper will roll around the edge and knock it off. Too much down pressure on any will knock the edge off.
 
I've found there are varying degrees of "convexity" you can give an edge.

Some bevels are already quite beefy and require only a small micro-bevel.

As long as it's sharp, it's AOK in my book. :thumbup:


Is this going to become like that burger commercial "Having it your way"....?


No onions for me please...

:D
 
The "Warren" strop I got at the MWKK seems to work pretty well on most every knife I've tried it on if the blade isn't butter knife dull to start with. I use green compound with it. But, of course, YMMV. :)
 
Big Jim, I sharpen mine with what's available. Nothing fancy, just sharpen it up.

You'll do fine.
 
What company is MWKK? Do you get the green compound there too? I'm looking for a good strop.
Click to expand...

ROTFLMAO!!! :D :eek: :p


sorry to laugh at your expense malcolm...


MWKK = MidWest Khukuri Khonvention

Warren made the strops there - and yes, they do work great!




You can get a nice strop kit here:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32999&cat=1,43072

I'd get the Strop & Compound Kit - worth every penny.
 
Nasty said:
Too soft/thick of a backing and the paper will roll around the edge and knock it off. Too much down pressure on any will knock the edge off.
Click to expand...

I found some new stuff you use for the foam backing...
It is 3M Stikit(tm) 05586 Hand Pad / Tampon pour poncage manuel / Almohadilla para Iijadore manual / Almofada para lixadora manual...
It says to use it with 6" dia. Stikit Discs, but there is nothing to stop you using what ever you want to...

It is MUCH denser than a mouse pad... It should almost compleatly stop the rounding problem, unless you are VERY heavy handed...

You can just use it like a mouse pad, or you can glue it to a paddle or dowel...

Just a couple of dollars at 'Lowes' or 'Home Depot'...
 
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