To Makers: What is your sharpening process?

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seionage

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Oct 3, 2010
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I'd be curious to hear from the makers what their sharpening process is.

For me, time is a precious commodity, and every minute in the shop, is a minute away from the family. Yes, there might be something romantic about spending hours over an unobtanium stone, putting the razor edge on a knife, but, I don't have the time.

I can usually get a knife sharp enough to cut free hanging paper towel (while holding a sheet of paper towel in 1 hand, I can cut strips off of it -- like you see everyone do with a sheet of paper), but, it takes me a bit.

What do you do?
Do you do a specific belt progression?
Is there a standard test you do, to say "Ok, it's sharp enough." (I use the paper towel test above).
 
there is a Jesse Jarosz video on sharpening where he details his method

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDHxENG9AAQ

also a video from Silverman where he uses a donut style stone on a motor - about 25:50

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og5GL5PGo_U

myself I use the unobtanium stone and I like the process but I can certainly appreciate your value of time

20258E15-F1C1-4EB8-BD00-353AC41E47C5_zpsaownghml.jpg


regards
 
I typically go 220 then worn out 400 belts on my variable speed grinder, slow, to set the edge and build a burr, then I make a few strokes on a 600 grit diamond stone to knock the burr off, then strop on leather loaded with green buffing compound. If it shaves hair cleanly and slices copy paper cleanly, it's out the door. Any hangups on the paper, or any spots that won't shave, then I go back to the 400 belt and start over. Typically takes less than 10 minutes a blade.
 
At 20% power 220-400-600-800 on the belts.Power leather strop with green compound.Finnish on another leather power strop with just light oil.The power strops is a Tormek with leather wheels on both sides.Good luck,Lu
 
I bought a clone of a Tormek (Canadian Tire) and use it to set my secondary bevel then finish it with a Wicked Edge. It takes some time.

IMG_20150809_204953_hdr_zpso4zahkbq.jpg
 
For me, sharpening is relaxing and fun, and I've always enjoyed it. An edge on a new knife might take me an hour, tho. No powered systems, just stones, both diamond and water. I use the Razor Edge Systems clamp on guide, and can adjust the angle by positioning the guide in/out. Edge is cut initially with either a 120 grit Sigma Ceramic or 140 grit Atoma. Never apexing here. Next stone is either a 320 grit Suehiro Chemical or 400 grit Naniwa Superstone, and it is here that I will actually apex and burr. On to a Norton 1000 grit stone, keeping the burr as small as possible, feeling for it with the fingernail test. Then a 2000 grit "Green Brick of Joy". Then a 4000 grit King water stone. That is usually where I'll stop on hunters and EDC....thinking about actually stopping at 1000K next time on hunters. For kitchen knives I usually go to an 8000 grit unknown brand water stone, then 12K Chinese waterstone, and then strop on 0.1 micron PSA film.
 
I've made only a few knives but I do a lot of primary grind work. After the primary grind is set then I sharpen at 220 grit, 5% power or so, edge leading. Then I can go back and touch up the primary and get everything perfect and even. Finally I finish on the Wicked Edge inside. If it is a thicker bevel I set the edge angle at 15 dps then microbevel on the Wicked Edge - doesn't take much time.
 
I have a couple of DMT plates up to 1200x, several stones up to 10,000 grit and powders up to 100,000 grit but I haven't mastered those techniques yet. Currently, I use 240x, 400x, 800x, 1200x, 2000x, 3000x belts on the belt sander moving very slowly. Then I use a worn cloth backed X weight belt turned inside out and charged with green chrome buffing compound with the belt moving just above stall speed to strop. Then I use a leather strop mounted on 3/4" plywood to do final hand stropping. If it doesn't shave hair it won't leave the shop.
 
knife sharp enough to cut free hanging paper towel (while holding a sheet of paper towel in 1 hand, I can cut strips off of it
Click to expand...

Hey, you are bragging now :) :) :) When I can strip regular typing paper than way it will usually shave hair nicely and I accept that. Maybe someday I'll get to a paper towel.

Ken H>
 
Most of us get our knives sharp enough to impress the customer before they leave our shops. I don't think a knife can be too sharp as a general rule but do you feel that a knife can be too sharp to be maintained by the customer? Customers don't always have the supplies, equipment or know how to put the kind of edges on the knife that we do. Is a "working edge" generally better than a "competition" edge?
 
i4Marc said:
Most of us get our knives sharp enough to impress the customer before they leave our shops. I don't think a knife can be too sharp as a general rule but do you feel that a knife can be too sharp to be maintained by the customer? Customers don't always have the supplies, equipment or know how to put the kind of edges on the knife that we do. Is a "working edge" generally better than a "competition" edge?
Click to expand...

For one customer I matched the angle of a Staysharp pull through ceramic sharpener so he can maintain his edge. I usually sharpen to either 15DPS or 20DPS and recommend they buy a Spyderco Sharp Maker to maintain the edge.
 
I use a knock off edge pro because I can't afford the real deal, the stones are completely worn out and useless. I was contemplating going to a powered method I saw on Instagram using a modified harbor freight 1x30. I typically take mine up to 1500 and then buff on a loose wheel with plastic compound. It gets them sharp enough to shave and slice catalog paper. The full size cleaver I completed a couple weeks ago had no trouble going through a 500+ page text book and spine.
http://s15.photobucket.com/user/00s...8-489E-82C6-08D45CC70C50_zpsnvpvieso.mp4.html
 
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Kevin - that demo is IMPRESSIVE!!! That'd sure dice up some veggies..... or a big chuck of beef!
 
My way to approach this, is that the cutting edge should be thinned with a low angle bevel (about 30 degrees inclusive, 15 degrees per side) until it shows burrs. This is done on the belt grinder with slow speed beginning with about 220 grit and quickly progressing to at least 600 (At least X-30 micron) grit with cloth-backed belts on an hard platen. Don't overheat the cutting edge.

Next, I sharpen the final cutting edge to about a 40 degree inclusive angle (20 degrees per side for the final edge). This allows the user to easily touch up the edge since most sharpening devices are set up for 19 or 20 degree angles. I've final sharpened on the belt grinder at 20 degrees, and have done the same with a SharpMaker by hand..

I really like the Spyderco sharpmaker system for hand sharpening. Setting the final edge by hand after establishing it properly on a grinder is good enough for me. The finer stones cost a bit though.

Finally, I use a high speed buffer or leather strop to eliminate any edge burrs.

I the edge doesn't layer paper sheets after this, the heat treat is bad.

Mike
 
i belt sharpen 90% of my blades

sushi knives and straight razors are hand honed on water stones

y grindign an edge on for my belt sharpened blades is wet used 120 wet 400 and then wet crZY USED WET 9 MICRON BELT i then slack belt (lightly ) on teh same 9 micron belt ( i never buff a burr off) buffing an edge removes a bur but its cause it rounds it off not sharpens it yo an edge.
 
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