To Mr. CS, some recommendations from a long-time CS buyer...

P

PHP87

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May 19, 2013
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Mr. CS

I enjoy the CS product line very much and I own more CS knives than all other brands put together.

I feel that CS has room for improvement however.

If I may, a few suggestions for future deployments:

1. Change the "Default" Steel from AUS-8A to perhaps 440C. AUS-8A is good, but 440C is better as are other steels that would not be cost prohibitive.
2. Instead of silk screening the make/model of the knife, imprint it into the metal. If one has to polish out micro-scratches, the logo tends to fade or "ghost" which is an issue if you have a somewhat rare knife like a Vaquero Grande with "VG-1" silk screened on the steel instead of imprinted.
3. Painting the clips black results in chipped clips that look terrible. Either leave them unpainted or consider powder coating them black.
4. Include the grind angles for each model so when we re-sharpen our knives, we don't have to jump thru hoops figuring out the sharpening angle to use.

Thanks for your time.
 
Although I guess a lot of people have asked for 1, CS do a very good job with their AUS8A. Perhaps, given that they're already working with Japanese steels AUS10A might be a good step up if it doesn't increase material costs significantly. Things like VG10 would be way too expensive, especially given the amount of steel you get in an XL Cold Steel knife.

2 makes sense, but is having to stamp/engrave the markings on going to significantly increase cost.

3 I can agree with, although I think worn clips add character.

4 I'm not sure there's a fixed angle for each knife, certainly some like my AK-47 were a bit inconsistent side to side. As a rule of thumb I'd say 22-20° per side is good for an all purpose blade, and 15-18° good for a dedicated slicer. If you're doing heavier chopping work, probably about 25° helps maintain a strong edge.
 
Good input. Id agree on the coating. The AK is also one of favorites of all time. Im great a sharpening. But mine came at one side 23 and the other at 15. Try that one. LOL. But I sharpened that out after a short while.
 
A BIG 2 thumbs UP to the OP, IMHO, especially the "Blade Logo" issues. Ive got Voyagers w/ stamped blades, and w/ the "ghost" printing both, and there comes a time when you just have to make the decision:

"Do I want the company name on my EDC/users, or do I want to attempt "maintainence" around/over top of the Logo??"
I would dearly LOVE to see CS go back to "permanently" putting the logo SOMEWHERE on the knife.

I sent a circa 1980s Carbon V TM back to Ventura for a rehandle/resharpening update. That old knife was made by Hoffritz Knives, and dear God, those guys had to go DEEP to remove the years of abuse it had suffered.

You can STILL make out most of the original blade markings. The familiar CS "Japanese Caligraphy font " is engraved on the ricasso.

I understand that it costs more to stamp markings into a blade, but I would gladly pay somebody right now to engrave overtop of the screenprints on my CSNB, CSGK/CV, CSGKSM3 etc. to make it permanent

WHY??

Because I couldve bought a S&W 460 XVR w/ a 6in. bbl. and reloading materials INSTEAD of my cherished "companions".

Well, my wife and sons bought them for me.

I have supported CS since 1987, and I am loud and proud.

For years LT openly challenged ANY knife company to a "side by side showdown". Loud and proud, baby!

Mr. Monitor: PLEASE encourage your company to once again chisel its name into "knife history".

When I die, (if the planet lasts that long...) I want my loved ones to look at my collection and have that same "CASE collector-like connection" w/ the knives I carried.

At the rate its going, the AKTI is going to be JUST as important to sportsmen as other groups are here in America. A truly sad state of affairs.

I have carried CS knives because I believe that logo stands not only for an excellent product, but also for the America I grew up living in. We could count on each other.
 
I personally like aus 8a more than 440c, never had a knife take as scary sharp of an edge.

One thing I'd like to see is differentially hardened katanas.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2
 
Thanks for the opportunity to make suggestions. I would like to see a dedicated batoning knife. Similar to a BK3 Becker, but made like the CS GI Tanto, with a squared off end rather than the tanto point. Please leave out the serrations and hook. I split some of my smaller pieces of wood this way for my wood stove and depending on the personality of the fire at the time, having one next to the stove lets me make smaller pieces for whatever the fire seems to need. I am using the GI Tanto at the present time and it handles 3/4 to 4 inch stuff pretty well, but the lack of a false edge on the spine would make the perfect knife for my use.
 
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