To strip or not to strip...

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Oct 27, 2009
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So I have been contemplating stripping the coating on my TGLB. Not sure yet if I will, but if I decide too, what would be a good stripper to use that won't harm micarta? I know INFI is supposed to be pretty rust resistant but does anyone know how well hand stripped INFI compares to a Comp Finish done at the shop in terms of rust resistance? Also would removing the finish void the warranty?

Thanks in advance guys!
 
i called busse few days ago. I wanted the comp finish and then told them i wanted to do a stone was on the blade. they said it'll void the warranty because it's consider a mod. so i'm assuming same would follow if you strip the coat off TGLB
 
i called busse few days ago. I wanted the comp finish and then told them i wanted to do a stone was on the blade. they said it'll void the warranty because it's consider a mod. so i'm assuming same would follow if you strip the coat off TGLB

I'm going to assume that you meant stonewash and auto correct butchered it... Stripping most likely is not considered a mod for warranty as it does not affect integrity of materials. And the knife gets stripped when you use it anyway.
With stonewash, well you're drilling out the rivets, a chance to overheat the tang, and the stonewashing process can exaggerate any imperfections within the steel and change integrity of the knife. I'd say it's fair to say that this is a mod.
 
I thought it was common knowledge that strippers rule? :confused:


Anyway....strippers...I use EZStrip, it's a gel. Real nasty stuff so use gloves. It won't affect micarta, besides, leave that stripper on for 5 minutes the coating usually melts off.

Rust resistance...I've had 0 problems from my NMSFNO with rust, and the only issues with the FFBM is the INFI dimples which really isn't a big deal. So IMO, strippers have better rust resistance than competition finishes.


i called busse few days ago. I wanted the comp finish and then told them i wanted to do a stone was on the blade. they said it'll void the warranty because it's consider a mod. so i'm assuming same would follow if you strip the coat off TGLB

That's kind of dissapointing. A stonewash finish on my Assualt Shaker would be cool, but at the same time, I don't have rivet holes to drill out :D
 
Thanks guys. Would home stripped INFI be more susceptible to rust than a true Competition Finish from the factory?
 
Thanks guys. Would home stripped INFI be more susceptible to rust than a true Competition Finish from the factory?

Not if you scotchbrite the decarb layer off enough to make it a non-issue. ;) Possibly even less susceptible from my experience.
These are all blades I have stripped, except for the sjtac and cgfbm which were done by the shop.
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2dvppjc.jpg


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macuat.jpg


wc0b6c.jpg


sw2rtt.jpg


And this is what I stripped them with...
r2kgt2.jpg
 
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I say do it. Infi doesnt rust as easy as other carbon steels. I have had 154cm rust in the same conditions infi was in, no rust at all on the infi!

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Oh yea I would recommend you get the chemical grade gloves, usually they are green. The regular yellow ones wont protect much, that stuff is potent!
 


Not if you scotchbrite the decarb layer off enough to make it a non-issue. ;) Possibly even less susceptible from my experience.
These are all blades I have stripped, except for the sjtac and cgfbm which were done by the shop.


Thanks a ton guys! What type of Scotchbrite should I use to remove the decarb?
 
Strip it, beat it, and make it write bad checks!!

P.S. You don't have to cover the res-c as stripper will not hurt it.
 
i called busse few days ago. I wanted the comp finish and then told them i wanted to do a stone was on the blade. they said it'll void the warranty because it's consider a mod. so i'm assuming same would follow if you strip the coat off TGLB


AFAIK, no one has ever had reason to think that chemical stripping would void the warranty on a Busse knife.


As far as a stonewash goes, if you have confidence in the properties of INFI, and don't mind "owning your own warranty"; then why not go for it? Many folk here have reground their blades with power tools, or had it done, and we are happy to trade the risk of a lost warranty against the satisfaction of personalizing or improving our knives.
 
I think I'm gonna go ahead and strip my TGLB down. Someone mentioned using Scotch-Brite to remove the decarb layer, what kind of Scotch-Brite should I use?
 
I think I'm gonna go ahead and strip my TGLB down. Someone mentioned using Scotch-Brite to remove the decarb layer, what kind of Scotch-Brite should I use?

The fast moving kind, think round and motor powered, it is much easier than by hand which will take you about as long as your warranty is good for. ;)
 
by hand with something like 100 grit sandpaper plan on at least 4 hours to get all the way down past the grind lines.

A loose abrasive polish will get inside the grind lines without having to take the whole surface down. This will get it shiny faster but it wont be as flat.

They look fine stripped and oiled though.
 
Thanks guys!

Could using something like a dremel with a Scotch-brite wheel potentially harm the heat treat and would removing the decarb myself possibly void the warranty?
 
Thanks guys!

Could using something like a dremel with a Scotch-brite wheel potentially harm the heat treat and would removing the decarb myself possibly void the warranty?


Can you even get a small Scotchbrite wheel for a Dremel?


Jerry has stated here that INFI has to be heated quite high to damage the temper, over 700F, IIRC. Small, high speed wheels may pose the highest risk of generating high temps, but with a little care and common sense, you will be just fine.
 
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