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HFinn said:
Witches can be usefull.

Holy_Grail2.jpg


So when I have my stick ready I can use it to whip witches?
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I don't think I ever heard any details. It's just something that my dad said. It's the sort of thing he might have heard from his grandfather, who knew everything.
 
HFinn said:
I finally got around to do some carving. The wood is Sorbus aucuparia, mountain ash or rowan. Quite gnarly and hard. The Aito by Järvenpää did as I expected, well but not stellar. It tended to slip more than the others, allthough they were all sharp. The smaller Tommi by Mauno Keränen did shine when doing delicate work like carving the bark out.

But the Kaartinen tommi outclassed them all. No contest, it displayed at the same time real bite and you could take a very fine chip out of wood if you wanted. Even if this is an expensive knife to me I am going to put this to work. Pure joy to use. Ergonomically this was also the best, allthoug Aito is quite comfortable.
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Thanks for the review.

I'll probably buy a tommi puukko for fine carving so these posts are very useful. I still haven't decided which blacksmith makes the best ones. :)
 
I stropped these knives and interestingly the smaller tommi seems to have something of a micro bevel. It should not, but when I try to find the stropping angle it looks like I have to raise the angle a bit from the flat. With the Kaartinen tommi I just lay the flat on the leather and start stropping, so it is a true zero grind. I have try again to confirm if I am right. That would explain the small difference in carving, allthough I might be unfair because there is a considerable size difference both with blade and handle.

I made a new, better fitting pocket sheath for the Mauno Keränen little Tommi (I had one sheath made but was not satisfied with it). This one has also a plastic liner (that I also made) for the blade for protection, the upper part containing handle has a welt. Now the combination is what I have wanted, a classy pocket sized fixed blade.
 
Most of tommis that I've seen have had microbevels. It's not too hard to grind it out though, in case you don't like it.

I use microbevels on my puukkos so that they are easier to sharpen while out in the woods. (no need to lug a heavy whetstone around) Few swipes across a smooth stone or bottom of a coffee cup will restore the edge.

For a puukko only used for carving I might go with a zero grind, what do you think?
 
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chown said:
For a puukko only used for carving I might go with a zero grind, what do you think?
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I'm not much of a carver/whittler but so far I have had good results with zero grind. The worst so far have been some overly thick, crowbar knives that were sharp enough to shave hair, but would not whittle att all. I quess it depends on the overall geometry of the blade and edge.

Short answer: I don't really know. :) But having choise, I would take zero grind or as close as possible.
 
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