Tomahawk Sample

Metalhead0483 said:
Actually that was my first thought. if it were me I'd bring that upper hole down just a bit, because it's right about where I'd want to end the scale, not pin it. But that's just me.
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Agreed, when I said pins holes were good I was thinking that's where the scale ended, but the pin hole needs to be back a tad (an inch?) from where the scale is going to end.
 
I know axes in general are usually a bit softer than a knife, with an axe being down in the 50 Rc range - is that correct? With an axe like that with 80crV2, what would be the goal Rc hardness?

Based on reading I'm sorta thinking no spike now, hammer only. I think it would be fairly easy to forge weld a 1/4" thick slab of steel to each side of hammer head to give a 3/4" wide hammer. With forge welding no seams would be visible. Comments?
 
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Ken H> said:
I know axes in general are usually a bit softer than a knife, with an axe being down in the 50 Rc range - is that correct? With an axe like that with 80crV2, what would be the goal Rc hardness?

Based on reading I'm sorta thinking no spike now, hammer only. I think it would be fairly easy to forge weld a 1/4" thick slab of steel to each side of hammer head to give a 3/4" wide hammer. With forge welding no seams would be visible. Comments?
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would think you could be up in the upper 50s like in the 55-58 rage for hardness. Depends on what your going to do with it but it should be rather tough.
 
80crv2 is amazing stuff, think of it like really high quality 1080 with added vanadium which helps toughness

it is almost the perfect low cost carbon steel for machetes, axes, choppers and even swords (imho)
the skrama is made from it, and has a unique ht which keeps the outer portions softer, but the inner portion (including edge) in the high 50s
 
dirc said:
80crv2 is amazing stuff, think of it like really high quality 1080 with added vanadium which helps toughness

it is almost the perfect low cost carbon steel for machetes, axes, choppers and even swords (imho)
the skrama is made from it, and has a unique ht which keeps the outer portions softer, but the inner portion (including edge) in the high 50s
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If the head is not through hardened I would be pretty worried about the edge life. Remember JT is not beveling them prior to hardening.
 
JT, how are you gonna heat treat these? just the front half of the bit and leave the rest soft? Or just doing the whole thing with a lower hardness?
 
dirc said:
JT, how are you gonna heat treat these? just the front half of the bit and leave the rest soft? Or just doing the whole thing with a lower hardness?
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Going to heat treat the whole thing at a higher hardness. I don’t care much for edge quenching stuff.
 
I am planning on heat treating all of these as blanks unless someone wants opted out. There should not be any issues getting a fully hardened blade
 
I just ordered a blank, pre heat treat. I’ll heat treat it myself. But I was wondering if your using cryo with these JT? I don’t really have a way to cryo an axe, unless I build a flask. But I’m guessing with this steel cryo isn’t needed.
 
JTknives said:
I am planning on heat treating all of these as blanks unless someone wants opted out. There should not be any issues getting a fully hardened blade
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Oops, didn't see this until after I made my order. I'm fine doing my own heat treat though. That's why I'm glad you went with 80CrV2 instead of something more exotic.
 
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