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tomahawk steel choice.

Rustyrazor,
No offense meant here, but it seems like you're trying to re-invent the wheel. There's many hawk makers that have already done the kind of testing required to make a tough breaching hawk. These guys have already taken this path, and we can just follow their lead. Thus, my original answer about looking to some big names, Dan Winkler, RMJ, etc..
Any of these steels will be strong enough, a human just won't be able to create the power to break a typical sized full tang hawk when prying. I'd be more concerned about breaking the tip of the spike, or edge damage. Impact strength is going to be more of a concern in the field, any well made hawk will survive being pryed upon. Finding that balance between a useless thick edge and one that is way to thin for hard use will be a greater challenge. Heck, the steel manufacturers have already done the legwork for you by making such great steel choices.
The GG&G is a great example of an overbuilt hawk, it's too much hawk. It's 44oz, 3/8" thick throughout, and it will tear skin off your hand if you don't wear a glove. It's too heavy to pack around, the edge does not cut wood, it just breaks wood. It will cut through metal, and the spike is very effective. Yet, it would still see some damage if I spiked an engine. Point being that it is not indestructable, there are materials that will be harder than a tough hawk's steel, and they will cause some edge damage to a hawk.
I just think that if I were in a position to make a few hawks, I'd look to what the pros are using in theirs. Sure, there might be something slightly better, maybe it's too expensive to use in a hawk business, IDK?
 
No offense taken chief... I know there are a few really good choices out there, and they are more than suitable to do the job at hand. I was just wondering what material to make mine out of to rival some of these great hawks. The last thing i want to do is have one of my tools let someone down when required. I am seriously looking at a couple "hard use" steels to buy, and I was just wondering if anyone had any real "this is the "GO TO" steel" kind of ideas.
 
I have a Condor TRT on order that's made out of 1075. Once I get it I'll put it through the paces to see how tough it is.
 
Google the type of steel you are interested in and add the word datasheet. Or yield and tensile strength or all of them...

:) Its a start, If you're really interested, look at mechanics or materials, and stress strain in engineering. Nothing like 4 or so years of university to give you lots of marginally useful information, ...oh, and the ability to analyze designs... :D

Crucible.com is a good place to start for datasheets.

Outstanding info chief, thanks... and no, i'm not that strong, lol. can you direct me to one of these sites so I can spend another month or two on there reading all their info as well?
 
yeah, i've been hitting the interweb quite hard for the last few months/years to narrow down a lot of stuff. not an engineer, but i'm on their sites all the time... tons of useful info on them as well.
 
I can't speak much to the other alloys, but I've been very happy with the results of axes and tomahawks I've made out of 4140, chopping hardwood, missing and splitting flint rocks, cutting up sheet metal. I made the dies for my power hammer out of it and heat treated them myself, with no deformation or damage after a fair amount of usage. RMJ Tactical uses it as well, and I have a mighty much lot of respect for their work.

With a properly heat treated head, your handle is going to do more to determining prying ability.
 
Bumping this up so I dont start a new one. How do you guys feel about D2 as a choice for a small tomahawk?

Most of us don't think it's a good choice for a tomahawk. Why choose it when there are so many other more shock resistant steels to choose from?
5160, 4140, 57, H13, or even 1075, 1055, or 1095 seem to be what the tomahawk makers are using.
 
I just finished one out of L6....................Does a great job on hard walnut, but i am not going to try it out on an engine block................carl
 
I just finished one out of L6....................Does a great job on hard walnut, but i am not going to try it out on an engine block................carl

Yeah, I think if I was stopping a motorcycle I'd aim at the spokes in the wire wheels, assuming that's what they're running. :) Or knock the carburetor off.
 
I have made hawks from many types of steel as well as knives and my come back to favorite is a 5160 spring steel properly tempered and hafted. When oil hardened and tempered correctly this steel will still have enough flex not to fracture or fail in hard use or in a side ways stress as in prying. Edge retains it's profile well while being easy to sharpen. Many car springs were made from this steel and think of the abuse they take on a daily basis year after year. Good stuff! My hawks lean to more the traditional side but I have made tactical as well. View some at dickisonforge.com
IMG_5942.JPG
 
Yeah, I think if I was stopping a motorcycle I'd aim at the spokes in the wire wheels, assuming that's what they're running. :) Or knock the carburetor off.

lol... sorry for reviving this one. I did decide to go with 4140 after everything... good enough for RMJ, good enough for me. but this quote made me chuckle a little. not because I thought it was wrong, but because I TOTALLY agree (somewhat) in that yes, it sounds like overkill to puncture the engine block of a motorcycle rather than the spokes or carb, however the reason for the overkill was that the people that run the bikes where we were are very good at "Magyvering" up quick repairs for things they can fix, so we made it something they can't. that way it wasn't back in business 3 days later, driving around our position to ambush us or to pass information.

fun fact ;)
 
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