Too Many Sharpeners

I didnt want to start a new thread about the sharpmaker as there are so many so i thought i might slip this question in here on this thread.
I use the sharpmaker and its great, however i have been using it on knives that already have an edge to some degree and the sharpmaker brings them right up to where i want them to be. Now i have tried using it on a few kitchen knives that had no edge at all and were not looked after and couldnt bring an edge up at all. Why is this ? Did i have to go thru the process several times, also the knives werent of the best quality. It was just the thought that i couldnt do it that bothered me.
Also, what is good for sharpening garden tools like clippers and such, any suggestions ?
 
Please don't stop this thread. I am learning many sharpening tips from you guys and I do appriciate your comments.
Thank's likem
 
The Sharpmaker is, in my opinion, misnamed. It should be called the Sharpkeeper. It's excellent at polishing an edge or finishing an established one, but it sucks at putting an initial edge on a really dull knife.
 
I seem to be the only one, but I do like the DMT stuff.
I got a Duosharp in red/green, I can re-profile easily with the red (AUS8 isn't M2 steel, but it's not wussy), then find a razor sharp edge with the green and a quick strop on a belt.

And it's two 3x8 stones in one, for a lean 80$.
I don't like the sharpmaker at all, I like a benchstone much better.

_z
 
I am not sure who is going to win here. The benchstone guys or the sharpmaker heard. Or I just may buy both.
Thank you for all your advise. My mind is churning and I am not convinced on the best method yet or is there not a best method or just different styles of sharpening? I am not going to say at this point but I am sure that there is still the best for the novice blade sharpener. In this case - me. When I sharpen I use up too much blade.
Thanks likem
 
likem said:
TOO MANY SHARPENERS and opinions ---- I have a birthday comming up and need a sherpener for a wide veriety of knives. The forums I know will say the Sharpmaker-But there is always a post following that it will not do it all. I am a poor sharpener and worked on my SAK last night and used first a rough silicone carbige then a smooth bench stones. Did not like the results at all.
Took a tool that has a blade clamp and three slots. The hone has one shaft and four stones mounted on it and you rotate as needed. I do not know the maker but had it in storage for about 8 years. It has Heavy, medium, Fine grit and one grooved for seratted. I went through all three stones at the lowest angle and then went to a higher angle. Now my SAK has a straight edge instead of the shaped rounded form blade shape. I think I lost about 15% of the steel.
It is now sharp but will not pop a hair as some of the posters claim. What will do a good job on a knife without killing the profile of the blade shape and giving a razor edge? Here is a link to the blade photo. http://members.sparedollar.com/knife2b/sak.JPG Take a look at this. And tell me is this what I am after and if so I think if I did this 6 more times would there be any blade left to use. ------ Thanks likem
Click to expand...
Do not be sad...You just accidentally created a Wharncliffe bladed Swiss Army Knife!
I second the suggestion of an EdgePro. You can see your reflection in the edge if you finish on the polishing tapes.
Though for THAT knife, I would go the mousepad with sandpaper route...The way you multi-beveled that edge, you are well on the way to a convex edge anyway! That will actually make converting it to a nice convex a lot easier. Take one of the course stones and use it freehand to round off the transition points between bevels...Consentrate on the main one between the BACK of the blade and the first bevel.
Then get out the mouse pad and some 150 to 200 grit sandpaper and put it on the mouse pad and lay the blade flat on the paper and then raise the back just a LITTLE, and PULL the blade, edge TRAILING over the paper...
Count the passes you have to make to raise a burr along the top of the blade, then turn the blade over and do the same number on the other side...That SHOULD raise a burr on the side you did first. If not, then start counting again, and continue until you do raise a burr, then do the other side again for the same number of passes and check for a burr.
Make sure the burr is along the entire edge and that you have produced one on each side(not at the same time of course before going to a finer grit of sandpaper... I use something like 80,100,150,200,350,400,600,800,1000,1200,2000,2500,and then the 6000 and 12000 polishing papers. You do not have to use nearly as many grades as I do, but the more you do, the less passes you have to make with each grade before you go to the next grade, and also, I am trying to produce a mirror finish(they just look SO nice).
I find the sharpmaker requires MUCH more skill than either the EdgePro or the mousepad/sandpaper method, and has never given me as good of an edge.
 
I'm going to use a bad anology here , The sharpmaker and crock sticks are undergraduate devices , the edge pros , high end benchstones , strops etc are postgraduate gear . At one time just about all adult males could use a "flat " stone , and could sharpen axes , knives and chisels etc. with it . Regretably for many of us those days are gone , at the same time modern steels are harder and more wear resistant . As a result some of the lower end stones dont work well , at least in the hands of the average user .

Used as directed the Sharpmaker works well , just follow the video . The small Crock sticks sets are handy for quick touchups , I use them a lot in the kitchen , and to tune up my EDC stuff . For reprofiling , the diamond sleves can be handy . lite weight stones and steels are great fo touch-ups in the field . ( If you are able to hold an angle ) .

I have a fair number of good bench stones . I've got large DMT stones . Japanese water stones , ceramic, etc,etc, I'm a tradesman , and can use them fluently , that said 90 % 0f the time I use the Sharpmaker or crock sticks . As a general guide line , if you are fluent with files , you should be ok with a flat stone , if not get the Spyderco .
 
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