Too Sharp?

The type of cut makes a difference too.

If you tend to push cut a lot, a polished edge will perform better.

If you're doing long, slicing cuts a toothy edge is going to perform better on most materials.

It's fun to take an edge all the way up to a hair whittling polish, but it's not necessary. You can stop at 400-600 grit and strop the blade a bit with plain leather and have a knife as sharp as anyone will ever need it to be.

Mine are all over the place. I like sharpening, obviously, so it depends more on what sort of mood I'm in than it does any bit of practicality or logic.
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
The type of cut makes a difference too.

If you tend to push cut a lot, a polished edge will perform better.

If you're doing long, slicing cuts a toothy edge is going to perform better on most materials.

It's fun to take an edge all the way up to a hair whittling polish, but it's not necessary. You can stop at 400-600 grit and strop the blade a bit with plain leather and have a knife as sharp as anyone will ever need it to be.

Mine are all over the place. I like sharpening, obviously, so it depends more on what sort of mood I'm in than it does any bit of practicality or logic.
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^'Xactly.
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
The type of cut makes a difference too.

If you tend to push cut a lot, a polished edge will perform better.

If you're doing long, slicing cuts a toothy edge is going to perform better on most materials.

It's fun to take an edge all the way up to a hair whittling polish, but it's not necessary. You can stop at 400-600 grit and strop the blade a bit with plain leather and have a knife as sharp as anyone will ever need it to be.

Mine are all over the place. I like sharpening, obviously, so it depends more on what sort of mood I'm in than it does any bit of practicality or logic.
Click to expand...
Yup, couldn't have said it better.
 
I take mine up to 1000 grit then strop till the knife glides through receipt paper. I find that level of sharpness is best for my needs. Anything less and I find the knife will not smoothly cut through plastic food packaging, something that I require it to do. I've tried a toothy 600 then strop edge and it didn't work for me.
 
I like my H1 toothy (600, 800) as it cuts longer and better IME

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I have found the medium Sharpmaker rods and a green compound strop on leather is exactly what I like. Quick, easy, and sharp.....well, sharp enough.
 
I like polished edges cuz their fun to push cut and shave w and all that, but find some tooth usually helps for most EDC tasks. I'm surprised the mirror edge cut that tomato better than the toothy edge. I usually leave my kitchen knives alone after my sharpmaker brown stones as I find when I refine past that they glide over tomato and pepper skins.

For my pocket knives I try to have a smaller refined blade and a larger toothier blade. That way I'm prepared either way.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
He did a paper test with the polished edge but not with the "factory" edge. How do we know it was sharp, didn't have a burr etc?
 
Monofletch said:
I have found the medium Sharpmaker rods and a green compound strop on leather is exactly what I like. Quick, easy, and sharp.....well, sharp enough.
Click to expand...

Does anyone know what grit the brown Sharpmaker stones are? How about the white (fine)?
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
The type of cut makes a difference too.

If you tend to push cut a lot, a polished edge will perform better.

If you're doing long, slicing cuts a toothy edge is going to perform better on most materials.

It's fun to take an edge all the way up to a hair whittling polish, but it's not necessary. You can stop at 400-600 grit and strop the blade a bit with plain leather and have a knife as sharp as anyone will ever need it to be.

Mine are all over the place. I like sharpening, obviously, so it depends more on what sort of mood I'm in than it does any bit of practicality or logic.
Click to expand...

I apologize TLE, I knew there were two sharpener guys who have a pretty big presence in this forum, and I could only remember the name of one :( Guessing no cou-puns for me anytime soon :P
 
I've never had a knife I thought was too sharp but then I've never had one sharper than I would get on say a new ZT, Spyderco etc For me I think a bit toothy is better.
 
You could put a coarse primary bevel and then do secondary bevel with fine spyderco rods. I'm sure it will be very sharp and still coarse as the scratch pattern will still make it to the apex. This will murder a tomato. So much for that first video... Guy made a video justifying how his preference is better for him than a factory edge. Nothing more
 
Sergeua said:
You could put a coarse primary bevel and then do secondary bevel with fine spyderco rods. I'm sure it will be very sharp and still coarse as the scratch pattern will still make it to the apex. This will murder a tomato. So much for that first video... Guy made a video justifying how his preference is better for him than a factory edge. Nothing more
Click to expand...
Interesting, I kinda do this sometimes but in reverse and on the same bevel. I'll refine the edge with my finer grit but then run it on the brown sharpmaker rods once or twice to give a bit of bite back. In my head this gives the best of both worlds, but I haven't gone and really tested it.
 
I like toothy edges that I get on my DMT stones,and thats what I mostly use nowadays.Also for touchups sharpmaker is excellent,and use it too.If I am cutting meat I use only brown stones on sharpmaker,but white ceramics leaves nice edge too that cuts well almost anything.In my opinion its best to have the knife somewhere in middle,not too polished.Depends what you cut,,,,even my edges on coarse dmt whittle hair,so they all cut well.............different steels react differently.Coarse finish on thin blades like Victorinox paring and kitchen knives,and opinels works wonders :)
 
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