too small of a forge

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Dec 7, 2007
Messages
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I found some plans on building a forge,the guy used a piece of 10" square tubing.I have found a piece of 8" just wondering if,after i put my 1"liner in would it be to small,or would i be ok
 
a forge can be to big. my last forge was around 13" x 24" inside size. it went through propain very fast.
 
i would lean toward larger for the sake of being able to work on more diverse pieces. thats just me though. if you can work with the smaller size go for it. what kind of floor does it have? lets see the plans?
-Lou
 
that is big enough if you are good with that size..its up to u and what ur going to use if for...lets see some plans for them forges...
 
There are two things you want to consider when designing and building a forge.
WORK SIZE
EFFICIENCY

If you are going to be doing straight and small blades, a small chamber is fine. The important thing is that the WHOLE chamber be about the same temperature without a major hot spot. (This is the problem with a one brick forge)
A larger forge can heat more steel.
If you are going to do damascus or larger blades, you will need a bigger chamber area. An if you are to do non linear pieces. like tomahawks, you will need the room,too.

A small gas forge usually uses less propane, but properly designed, a larger forge may be more efficient. 2" of wool is a far better way to go. A good regulator, and a needle valve will help in tuning the flame. The most useful addition is a pyrometer and a solenoid valve to make the temperature control automatic.

The shell is actually not all that important. Any rigid tube or cylinder will work. A trash can, 5gal. paint bucket, etc. - anything you can work with.
Stacy
 
Thanks guys,tell me,would i do better or would i be in the same boat,with just a little more room, if i went with a 10" cylinder,or piece of pipe.

Keith
 
I think you'd be fine with the 8". That will still give you 6" finished.

Here's how the forge thing goes. You make your first one. Think of away to improve it so you make number 2. After you make the first one you realize how easy they are to make. Thats if you don't make the first one more difficult than it needs to be. I've averaged at least one new forge a year since I've been at it. The direction I have gone is from large to small. Last one I made was out of a 12" piece of 6" stove pipe.
 
Walter,
I built my first one earlier this year out of a large refrigerant tank as per something I found on the abana site...2" of ceramic wool with a piece of kiln shelf for a floor and homade atmospheric burner plan from the "backyardcasting" site, also has horseshoe shaped ends with small (4") openings both ends. I love it...its a real dragon breathin fire both ends and it heats metal real well...startin to forge 52100 with it and it does very well! Stacy's idea about the pyrometer and solinoid valve would be a real neat addition! have fun and be careful with it! Bill
 
what would be the easiest way to make the "thermometer" without spending much? what do you use for a burner? any advice would be greatly appreciated!:)
 
Thanks,both Raymond and Bill for the ideas.I guess i will do like Raymond and learn from my mistakes.


Thanks for all the help guys.
Walter
 
I just built my 4th homemade forge, every time I improve the design, the new one uses half the propane of my previous one, my next one should be even better, It's a learning process. I have spent less on building all of the homemade blower forges that all hit welding temperature than I spent buying a factory made atmospheric that doesn't even get close 15 years ago.
Good luck, have fun, be safe!

-Page
 
Go on as many forge sites as possible and look at the forges. you will see some universal traits. simple, round, short. There are lots of other forges made, but the bulk of the best of them are like these. 10"X16" makes a great forge that will do for a long ,long time. 2" wool, one burner, ( properly placed), a good burner setup, and a pyrometer will get you a long way down the road toward success. The pyrometers can be assembled from an ebay PID controller and a 12" stainless shielded K type thermocouple.
Stacy
 
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