I killed my 120 stone totally doing 3 swamp rats and 1 Ka-Bar. Ka-Bar has a swedge too now.I would pay more for the diamond stone if it lasted longer as this can get expensive on alot of knives.Plus you dont need water on the diamond stones. I dont know about you but by the time I am done my counter is a lake. That would be nice touch.
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too thin of an angle?
- Thread starter wicked1
- Start date
Get a large tray out of a microwave oven - stick the Edgepro inside the tray - towel inside the tray = done.
One of those rubber traction mats under the tray stops it from running around the counter top.
Crumbling stones means too much pressure applied (IMO). Lap your stones once they start gliding (instead of cutting) - pressing harder only makes a mess of everything. The harder the mat'l, the quicker the stones are to glaze.
IMO
MAT
One of those rubber traction mats under the tray stops it from running around the counter top.
Crumbling stones means too much pressure applied (IMO). Lap your stones once they start gliding (instead of cutting) - pressing harder only makes a mess of everything. The harder the mat'l, the quicker the stones are to glaze.
IMO
MAT
Cliff Stamp
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CMSpeedy said:How is hardness tested? Is it simple?
It is exceedingly basic. The standard HRC test has a piece of hard material pressed into the steel under a known force and the depth of dent used to determine the hardness. What is fairly complex is getting it done to a high precision.
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wicked1 said:I killed my 120 stone totally doing 3 swamp rats and 1 Ka-Bar. Ka-Bar has a swedge too now.I would pay more for the diamond stone if it lasted longer as this can get expensive on alot of knives.Plus you dont need water on the diamond stones. I dont know about you but by the time I am done my counter is a lake. That would be nice touch.
The diamonds do last longer, though they cut a little slower in the EdgePro (and a little faster freehand). EZE-Lap's 42 series fit perfectly on EdgePro's stone blanks (the pieces of metal the waterstones are glued to). You can only buy the 1200 grit EZE-Lap from Edge Pro, but it's a very nice stone.
Freehand reprofiling with DMT's D8XX stone is very fast and lets you finish with your EdgePro or by hand. I've found that using DMT's D8XX (120 grit), D8F (600 grit), and D8E (1200 grit) stones followed by a Norton 8000 grit waterstone is a very fast way to put a crazy edge on my knives. Just search for posts here by db and you, too, can learn to get your knives sharp enough to whittle hair.
How do you lap your stones? I have been using fine sand and a concrete block to remove the hollow. On the finer grits where not much of a hollow develops I just put them in the sink and brush them with a brillo pad. Is this good enough or is there a better method.
I do think that when I first got my edgepro I was using too much pressure. I've got the hang of it now.
I do think that when I first got my edgepro I was using too much pressure. I've got the hang of it now.
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CMSpeedy said:How do you lap your stones? I have been using fine sand and a concrete block to remove the hollow.
That's the way to do it. Or wet/dry sandpaper over glass or a diamond hone longer than 6" and wider than 2" will do, too.
Right off the EdgePro Website:
"STRAIGHTENING THE STONES
We have 2 methods for straightening stones. If you are just doing a few stones a year, you can straighten them with sand on a flat piece of concrete. If you are sharpening commercially and doing a lot of knives you can get a piece of plate glass about 15" square. Put a couple of tablespoons of silicone carbide powder on the glass, wet it and straighten the stones. Then you just store the glass with the silicone carbide on it. Next time you need it, just re-wet it an go. We have silicone carbide for $2. for a 1/2 LB bag."
When I first rec'd my Pro model I used the sand and concrete block method - then moved to using the carbide / glass plate technique ( purchased from Lee Valley Tools). The texture and cut rate of the stones is completely different, with the carbide flattened stones cutting MUCH faster, and producing smaller burrs that wipe off easier on the last few passes.
I wait a couple of days until the stones are completely dry - dripple some carbide onto the glass plate - and float the stones around on it, making the carbides roll like bearings under the stone. Fast scub in the sink with a brush and NO SOAP OF ANY SORT, good to go.
Using loose carbides sets the texture of the stone as well as flattening it - this is reason for the great cutting. (IMO)
MAT
"STRAIGHTENING THE STONES
We have 2 methods for straightening stones. If you are just doing a few stones a year, you can straighten them with sand on a flat piece of concrete. If you are sharpening commercially and doing a lot of knives you can get a piece of plate glass about 15" square. Put a couple of tablespoons of silicone carbide powder on the glass, wet it and straighten the stones. Then you just store the glass with the silicone carbide on it. Next time you need it, just re-wet it an go. We have silicone carbide for $2. for a 1/2 LB bag."
When I first rec'd my Pro model I used the sand and concrete block method - then moved to using the carbide / glass plate technique ( purchased from Lee Valley Tools). The texture and cut rate of the stones is completely different, with the carbide flattened stones cutting MUCH faster, and producing smaller burrs that wipe off easier on the last few passes.
I wait a couple of days until the stones are completely dry - dripple some carbide onto the glass plate - and float the stones around on it, making the carbides roll like bearings under the stone. Fast scub in the sink with a brush and NO SOAP OF ANY SORT, good to go.
Using loose carbides sets the texture of the stone as well as flattening it - this is reason for the great cutting. (IMO)
MAT
I have 3 sets of mounted EdgePro Stones. I keep them all soaked all the time. I use EdgePro's method for flattening. Keep the SC on the glass it dries and won't blow or float away. The method is a bit messy as the "mud" has to be scraped off the stone to check its tureness. Otherwise you rinse it down the sink. They do rinse clean easily, no scrubbing involved.
It is fast I can do all 3 sets in less than 15 mins. Freshly flattened stones cut MUCH better, and differently, than stones that aren't fresh. Plus frequent truing makes the stones last longer. Truing before a dish becomes apparent to the eye extends the life considerably. 30 seconds to a minute on the glass and SC after each sharpening session is easy and convenient. But if you get complacent lapping your entire set is just a few minutes of time.
A brisk short scrubbing with a 3M Scotch brite pad during use, when you switch stones, helps keep the stones from loading up or glazing in use. The consistency tends to stay longer.
Fresh surfaces cut better, less burrs, more consistent, easier sharpening and your stones will last longer with regular maintenance.
It is fast I can do all 3 sets in less than 15 mins. Freshly flattened stones cut MUCH better, and differently, than stones that aren't fresh. Plus frequent truing makes the stones last longer. Truing before a dish becomes apparent to the eye extends the life considerably. 30 seconds to a minute on the glass and SC after each sharpening session is easy and convenient. But if you get complacent lapping your entire set is just a few minutes of time.
A brisk short scrubbing with a 3M Scotch brite pad during use, when you switch stones, helps keep the stones from loading up or glazing in use. The consistency tends to stay longer.
Fresh surfaces cut better, less burrs, more consistent, easier sharpening and your stones will last longer with regular maintenance.