bladsmth said:
It has been my observation that many(most) of those who complain that their S30V (or other tough steel) chips easily have reshaped the blade geometry from the original edge to make it sharper.(or the maker made it with the wrong angle and shape).
The majority of the problems reported with S30V chipping are with the initial edge bevels. There have been some regrinds and some have lowered the edge angle but they have also done the same with other stainless which hold at more acute angles such as Mat who noted that his Buck in 425mod held a lower angle than his Sebenza :
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3700522&postcount=5
This isn't the only example of such a comparison, there are many others VG-10 is a common reference.
A chopper with an 11 degree hollow grind will chip easily regardless of how good the steel is.
I don't know what a 11 degree hollow grind means because a hollow grind doesn't have one angle, but most of my chopping blades have edges at about 11 degrees per side and they don't chip out because the steel is very tough. If you undercut the angle enough the edge will eventually ripple but the failure mode will actually switch away from fracture to deformation at lower angles because steels can flex much mor readily when thinner.
I have seen boasts of finished blades at Rc67
There are many reasons that having a high hardness in a blade is of benefit. It can make the blade more durable because they are stronger and allow lower edge angles and cutting of materials which can not be cut with softer blades. I have several knives which are of similar hardness, including this :
That is a hollow ground blade, 1095, 66 HRC, edge is 3/6 degrees per side, primary/secondary. It was used to cut away the sod in the picture, it didn't chip either. The temper responce of steels isn't linear, some of them have toughness peaks at a high hardness and drawing the temper makes them both weaker and more brittle. If you are not chopping, but cutting, in general you want strength more than impact toughness so lower hardness tends to mean a less durable blade. Hardness really isn't the issue with chipping though as most people hardening S30V are actually running it *softer* than the steels it replaced, not harder, and at the hardness that Crucible advocates usually.
Larrin said:
Those that are saying that S30V itself is a steel that isn't tough enough to use is just ridiculous.
Why is it ridiculous when that is what their use has seen and their reports are not contended aggressively by the makers. It is the obvious and reasonable conclusion especially when excuses start to be made for the steel which only adds support to the fact there is a problem.
If there are problems with S30V chipping, there is either a problem with heat treat and/or edge geometry, or they are using it for things that it wasn't intended for, such as chopping.
It was promoted for that and how do you then explain that they are doing the same things with other knives, there are many direction comparisons against VG-10 for example. Some of the problems have been with :
-cutting cardboard
-cutting plastics
-cutting corn stalks (yes, corn stalks)
-cutting plywood
-removing bark
-cutting fuzz sticks
and the list goes on. You can find all of these public complaints on the forums and it isn't uncommon to find people with problems with multiple knives, repeat problems with knives returned, and problems across multiple manufacturers, and these are not inexpensive knives either. As for the arguements, how can it be simply wrote off as a heat treatment issue when S30V was designed specifically for ease of heat treatment by knifemakers, promoted specifically as being superior to 440C in regards to heat treatment and in general CPM is supposed to be superior in that regard?
If the problem is that people are chopping with their S30V knives, than I'm definitely convinced that there isn't a problem, most of the problems with chipping were by people with folders, folders are not made to chop with, they're hard and thin.
First off all the edges on the folders that people are talking about are far more obtuse than actual wood cutting blades. Read Cook's book on axes to see how actual chopping axes are supposed to be ground or Lee's book on sharpening. I have yet to see a folding knife which came with an edge which was more acute than what I run on my large chopping knives which obviously impact wood far harder than a light pop with a folding knife. Secondly S30V was again promoted by Crucible for large blades as a tactical knife steel. It is in no way then excusable to critize someone who does light chopping with a small knife with the same steel, especially when the same folders are being sold as "survival" and "tactical" folding knives. Thirdly the majority of complaints are about cutting not chopping.
-Cliff