Tools for Kydex/Concealex sheaths

K Williams

K Williams

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 17, 1998
Messages
3,193
What tools, supplies, etc. are needed for making Kydex and Concealex knife sheaths? Where can I buy Kydex and Concealex sheets? Are there any websites with instructions on how to make sheaths?


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K. Williams
kel620@aol.com
Modern Arnis Student
 
K,

First of all, very few tools are really needed. I use my old beat up dremel tool with a cutoff wheel for cutting out the pattern, and a sanding wheel for shaping and smoothing the edges of the final result. I also use a standard heat gun (I got mine for $20). Oh, yeah, most importantly wear cotton gloves thick enough to protect your hands yet thin enough that you can feel what you're doing. You might also look into Chicago Screws or rivets. Some sheaths I've made I haven't used them, others I have.

As far as kydex goes, contact Texas Knifemaker's Supply. They'll hook you right up.

As far as webpages go, look at www.eskimo.com/~boyerbl/howtomakeknife.html at the very bottom he has a very conventional way of making kydex sheaths. Also check out www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/kydex.html That's our own Chiro75. he doesn't offer explicit instructions, but it does offer a great perspective on an approach.

If you're interested in something different, I might be able to help. I make (appearingly) seamless sheaths for inverted carry. Rather than having straps or whatever, the knives just securely snap and out of the sheath. Just e-mail me if you're curious and I'll tell you how I do it.

Hope this helps,

Zog
 
So what is the best method for fastening Kydex or Concealex? Rivets, Chicago screws, PVC glue, or a mixture of all three?

I received an e-mail telling me that I'd need an oven, a Dremel tool, and a drill. Is there anything else that I'll need?

Thanks for the info Zog.


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K. Williams
kel620@aol.com
Modern Arnis Student


[This message has been edited by K Williams (edited 26 September 1999).]
 
You don't NEED a Dremel tool, but it is the main tool used in finishing the sheaths. You can get away with elbow grease and sandpaper, though, just as easily as a sanding drum. You MUST have at least the following materials: Kydex or Concealex, obviously, a drill and bit for whatever hardware you will be using, an oven, a heat gun, and a hacksaw, as well as various grits of sandpaper, as mentioned.
The best way to learn is to do. I haven't made explicit instructions on my webpage because you can only read so much info in so much detail before you have to just TRY and see what happens. I've made dozens of sheaths and each one is still better than the last. There is a lot to be learned, and what works best is only to be learned by you. It takes a while and it is a frustrating process at first.
"Best" hardware is opinion. I prefer screws because you can open the sheath to clean it, which on hunting sheath is imperative, for example. Good luck and make sure you post pics of your first sheaths so we can laugh with you and offer pointers!

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My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/knifehome.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels

 
Chiro75,
Didn't you forget a form of some kind? I use two pieces of(I think it's called)PVC foam, glued to two pieces of 3/4" plywood.

K Williams,
I've made a couple of dozen Kydex sheaths with it and it's good for MANY more.Can be had from Sheffield's Knifemaker Supply 1-904-775-6453.
Just explain what your looking for and they will know.

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If it's stupid but works, then it isn't stupid.




[This message has been edited by misque (edited 26 September 1999).]
 
Oh, yeah, a form helps, although I've made many fine sheaths using nothing but a heat source and my hands (and gloves). I've also used two folded up t-shirts and two pieces of wood. You can use $6 camping mattresses from target, too. They breakdown after a few uses due to the heat, but they still cost less than some of the other foams I've seen. You'll be tempted into the thinking that "less is more", but trust me when I say the less you use the better the sheath.

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My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/knifehome.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels

 
You will find as many ways to make sheaths as people who have tried.
I personally think that you should use eyelet rivets and orange oatey in the construction and use sex screws to hold on straps and attachments, the sheath is plastic and can be cleaned without opening it. Using screws on the attachments will give you carry options. Also Blade-Tech makes the Tek-Lok and Edge Works makes the Mini-Paddle for multi carries.
You will get a much better sheath with good foam AND as much pressure as the knife can handle. It will not take you long to discover what a lot of makers have, stand on the foam/boards in the doorway and push up on the frame to press the kydex. It actually works great and you have to start somewhere eh?
smile.gif

There are sheaths that hold a knife and then there are the ones that have snap and pop security. The more the kydex resembles the knife the better.

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>)-RadarMan-(<
age:38
Three can keep a secret if two of them are dead.... Vermont Proverb
Click to expand...


 
There you have it. I still differ in opinion, though, RadarMan. I had a customer who was an admittedly sloppy hunter. He said his leather sheaths were trashed from the blood, guts, hair, etc that he would shove into the sheath. He also preferred hunting in downpours, insisting the best whitetail came out during storms.
So, for that guy a sheath that was two pieces that could be completely separated for a real good cleaning (who wants to get salmonellosis, right?) made sense. For most knives a permanent means of closing the sheath as RadarMan suggests is adequate, but for blood and guts you can't beat the preventative health care aspect of a take-apart sheath.
Not only that, but I've looked high and low for eyelets and moreso for the tools to press them and the tools are exorbitantly expensive. For under 20 cents a piece I can use high quality screws which will last forever. Most sheaths only need two or three, also, so it's a low profile design to boot. Glue and rivets require extra tools and time to do the same thing. Not too long ago I receieved a customer's knife in the morning, made the sheath, and got it into the mail that night, which wouldn't have been possible with glue. To each his own, though!

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My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/knifehome.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels

 
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