Tops bob knife

The tops Bob has consistently been one of our best selling fixed blade knives. I know it is 56-58 HRC but I am not sure on the bevel angle. I will look and see if I have that written somewhere for you!

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This is from the Tops Site. Hope it helps!

"Because we hand-grind the edge on each knife, there are slight variations in the angle of each. Our grinders are set to 25 degrees. So the variation on a TOPS’ edge is usually between 24 and 26 degrees on each side. Our modified Scandi Knives (B.O.B., MSK, Scandi Trekker, etc.) are slightly convex final edges, but since the Scandi grind leaves the knife steel somewhat thinner, the final edge is less than 25 degrees (although the grinders are still set at 25 degrees)."

https://flic.kr/p/wLXCGm https://www.flickr.com/photos/57703464@N02/
 
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One of the best knives of its kind out there from everything I read and see. Were I still purchasing fixed blades it would be one of the top of my list for bush.

You should get it. If you don't like the angle, change it.
 
I don't know how to change, seems a bit soft and I feel like the blade is too thick for woodworking

Maybe just me
 
It's a great knife for sure. There are a couple minor gripes I have with it, but having said that, it's never far from me.

tops-becker-3.jpg

tops-becker-2.jpg
 
Nathan Akins said:
Wait, the final bevel from the modified scandi is 25* or the big primary bevel is 25*?
Click to expand...

Primary bevel is ~12 dps, (20-25 inclusive like a Mora), edges are ground ~25-dps but with a convex profile blending to a lower angle as it approaches the edge-shoulder. I don't have a value on the edge-thickness at the shoulder...
 
Could you break this down for a noobie please? Will this affect how I sharpen it on the Worksharp Field Sharpener? It has a 25 degree angle guide. Will I be safe just going with that?
 
NickRepublic said:
Could you break this down for a noobie please? Will this affect how I sharpen it on the Worksharp Field Sharpener? It has a 25 degree angle guide. Will I be safe just going with that?
Click to expand...

Here's what you should do:

Get a bright-colored Sharpie (I usually use red) and "paint" the edge-bevel (between the apex and the edge-shoulder, not the big primary bevel) so that the cutting edge is a red line from tip to heel. Now run that painted edge along your sharpener as you normally would do to sharpen the edge. Now check the paint-job. Where has the paint been rubbed away? Where is it remaining? If there is paint remaining near the apex, then you either need to continue grinding at your chosen angle until all that paint is removed (all the way to the apex) or you need to change your angle. If there is no paint remaining near the apex, then you've successfully "apexed" your edge at that sharpening angle.

Sharpening an edge is simply rubbing/grinding away material from each side of the bevel face until the bevels meet at an apex - a sharp edge.
 
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