- Joined
- Jun 17, 2000
- Messages
- 262
Since last week I have been using this knife and have the following observations.
I know that I was not as fond of the TOPS version TB Tracker as I was with Becks, but I must say overall TOPS makes GREAT back country working tools. This is my first Steel Eagle (107D Tanto/saw teeth) and it is awesome. This is not my first or even second TOPS knife. I have owned and used 7 different models. I still own the little TB Scout. It is my favorite small fixed blade.
My personal requirements for a Survival/Backcountry blade are (but not in specific order),
1) Has to be long enough to chop/split firewood: Blade must be at least 6.5 inches in length 7.5 is better. I dont like carrying anything with an overall length of 13 inches.
2) Thick, strong and wide enough to withstand prying, digging and splitting:
At least 3/16 thick, I find that ¼ thick or more gives me that feeling of security that my blade will hold up under stress. (I know that can be debated by some). I also prefer thicker blades in a one does it all tool. It also adds weight in chopping.
3) Easy to re-sharpen with materials found in a wilderness setting but still hold a good edge: What if you lose your diamond rod or stone? I like NOT having to rely on the man made sharpening devices. However, I still carry one on my sheath.
4) Heavy duty (micarta or G10 etc), scales on a full tang. I dont like rubber or anything that resembles it, no matter how durable it is suppose to be. I dont like cord wraps on my bush knives.
(There are a few more but do to lack of time these are the most important to me.)
Point style does not matter as long as it works. I like the tanto point for 2 reasons;
1) Durability: when digging, chipping ice, etc.
2) Versatility: You can use the point as a smaller cutting surface. Its like having a small 1.5 inch bladed knife on the end of the big knife. (Learned from researching the the point style on TOPS Anaconda). This means a smaller knife or folder is not needed.
Saw teeth are a category all to them selves. Most people dont like them, its either a love or hate thing. I like them if they work. The ones on the Steel Eagle work very well. They are also low profile on the top edge. This means that battoning on the back edge of the blade is not as large a problem as on might think. It chews up the cudgel a little, but not bad. Also, depending on the size of the wood being split there is a section towards the point that is tooth free that can be utilized.
This is an awesome knife. It exceeds my criteria. I wish I had bought one sooner. I would like to get into the different uses of this knife another time. So far I believe it is as versatile as the Tracker or WSK style of knife. More to follow.
PS: Brian Jones, I couldn't PM you due to restrictions on my basic account. Sorry we couldn't make comms before you came back up to Vermont. Sounds and looks like you had a ball. Next time you come up email me at: MJOLLYROGER3 at aol dot com
I know that I was not as fond of the TOPS version TB Tracker as I was with Becks, but I must say overall TOPS makes GREAT back country working tools. This is my first Steel Eagle (107D Tanto/saw teeth) and it is awesome. This is not my first or even second TOPS knife. I have owned and used 7 different models. I still own the little TB Scout. It is my favorite small fixed blade.
My personal requirements for a Survival/Backcountry blade are (but not in specific order),
1) Has to be long enough to chop/split firewood: Blade must be at least 6.5 inches in length 7.5 is better. I dont like carrying anything with an overall length of 13 inches.
2) Thick, strong and wide enough to withstand prying, digging and splitting:
At least 3/16 thick, I find that ¼ thick or more gives me that feeling of security that my blade will hold up under stress. (I know that can be debated by some). I also prefer thicker blades in a one does it all tool. It also adds weight in chopping.
3) Easy to re-sharpen with materials found in a wilderness setting but still hold a good edge: What if you lose your diamond rod or stone? I like NOT having to rely on the man made sharpening devices. However, I still carry one on my sheath.
4) Heavy duty (micarta or G10 etc), scales on a full tang. I dont like rubber or anything that resembles it, no matter how durable it is suppose to be. I dont like cord wraps on my bush knives.
(There are a few more but do to lack of time these are the most important to me.)
Point style does not matter as long as it works. I like the tanto point for 2 reasons;
1) Durability: when digging, chipping ice, etc.
2) Versatility: You can use the point as a smaller cutting surface. Its like having a small 1.5 inch bladed knife on the end of the big knife. (Learned from researching the the point style on TOPS Anaconda). This means a smaller knife or folder is not needed.
Saw teeth are a category all to them selves. Most people dont like them, its either a love or hate thing. I like them if they work. The ones on the Steel Eagle work very well. They are also low profile on the top edge. This means that battoning on the back edge of the blade is not as large a problem as on might think. It chews up the cudgel a little, but not bad. Also, depending on the size of the wood being split there is a section towards the point that is tooth free that can be utilized.
This is an awesome knife. It exceeds my criteria. I wish I had bought one sooner. I would like to get into the different uses of this knife another time. So far I believe it is as versatile as the Tracker or WSK style of knife. More to follow.
PS: Brian Jones, I couldn't PM you due to restrictions on my basic account. Sorry we couldn't make comms before you came back up to Vermont. Sounds and looks like you had a ball. Next time you come up email me at: MJOLLYROGER3 at aol dot com
