Torch for heat treat?

Ok I understand that the torch from Harbor Freight is a good buy and I have been planning on buying one soon I am just buying my home and I am setting up the forge as soon as I can after getting settled. I guess I want a forge that I can use with both of my hands free.

I will use the torch for heating up my blades when I do not need both of my hands free.

If you can post the pictures and the info on how the burner is made I would appreciate it.

I have looked at a bunch of burner designs I just want some info from someone that has actually done it.

Thanks again,


Jim

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The warrior will endure great personal hardship in order to stand on a hill, howl at the moon, and proclaim his domain over all he surveys. Fredrick Lovert- Author
 
Disclaimer. Don't do this. Don't sue me if you do this, because I told you specifically not to do this. If you do this don't use galvanized pipe because when the galvanization burns off it is toxic.

Burner parts:
2" dia steel pipe about 2 ft long.
1/4" or 5/16" coppertubing about 2 ft long.
(making sure the coppertubing matches the inside diameter of the regulator hose)
cheap hairdryer
some hose clamps, 1" and 2 1/2" sizes
a regulator hose from a gas grill
a piece of sheetmetal about 8" square
flux and solder
ducktape

Tools:
soldering iron
drill
1/4" or 5/16", 3/32" drill bits
4in1 oil for drilling through the pipe
hammer
pliers
soapy water and a sponge

Assembly:
-about 6 inches from the end on the coppertubing I drilled a 3/32" hole.
-about 8 inches from the end of the pipe I drilled a 1/4" hole all the way through the center of the pipe and out the other side.
-I pushed the tubing through the pipe and out the other side. The 3/32" hole in the tubing was then centered with it pointing toward the long end of the pipe.

[]
[]
____________________________[]___________
front of [] back of
burner <---airflow-- 0] burner
____________________________[]___________
[]
[]
[]
[]

I soldered the coppertubing to the pipe making sure the 3/32" hole pointed toward the front of burner and was centered.
I then flattened, folded, and soldered closed the end of coppertubing that stuck out 5 inches from the pipe. I did this so no gas exits from there. (We still regularly test this with soapy water to make sure it is sealed.)
-The regulator hose was 1/4", so all that was required was cutting off the end, sliding the coppertubing in about 1-1/2" deep. I held this in place securely with a 1" hose clamp and also regularly test it with soapy water.
Then I curled the 8"x8" sheet metal into a tube and used one 2-1/2" hose clamp to hold it to the back of the burner and another to hold the hairdryer into the back of it.

One psi forced air burner ready to go, all that was left was to take a piece of duct tape and restrict the airflow into the hairdryer. Ours needed about a 75% reduction. This was done mainly by ear trying to get that jet engine sound.

To light the burner, I shove paper into the forge, set the paper on fire. Turn on the hairdryer, then turn on the gas.
 
Here's a top view of the burner, with some scribbling on it. The dot represents the gas injection point into the air flow, the lines that the arrow are pointing at show the ignition point of the gas/air mix.
<IMG SRC=http://www.freespeech.org/oz/NF3.jpg>
Here's a rear view, showing the tape over the back of the hair dryer, and the connection to the tank.
<IMG SRC=http://www.freespeech.org/oz/NF4.jpg>
Here's the full shot of the forge.
<IMG SRC=http://www.freespeech.org/oz/NF1.jpg>
Here's another angle of it while it's running.
<IMG SRC=http://www.freespeech.org/oz/NF6.jpg>
And here's a piece of steel after letting it cook for ten minutes, after the forge was on for ten minutes.
<IMG SRC=http://www.freespeech.org/oz/NF7.jpg>
Hope this clears things up.


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Oz

"I'm politically opposed to the word 'Impossible'."
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
 
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