Tormek T8

[HuecoDoc]

It seems I am committed to the T8 but haven't received it yet. I think I am good freehanding with a belt. What I don't care for much is that they seem to sharpen away from the edge with that jig but I'm going into this with an open mind. I skimmed one long video.

 

[nevertakeadayoff]

It seems I am committed to the T8 but haven't received it yet. I think I am good freehanding with a belt. What I don't care for much is that they seem to sharpen away from the edge with that jig but I'm going into this with an open mind. I skimmed one long video.

This tells me you haven't read enough or watched enough videos on Tormek (can sharpen both ways). However, it sounds like you'll be satisfied with the system based on the single fact that you can freehand with a belt. But you shouldn't be taking advise from me.

 

[Modernflame]

I am holding it against the universal support as they do in the official Tormek videos.

If you're not good at free-hand sharpening with a belt sander or something, then you're not going to be good at the Tormek. I have never been a fan of that way of sharpening and didn't expect it to be essential for using the Tormek.

The jig is designed poorly. It relies entirely on the operator, which is why I compare it to free-handing. My only option is to improve that design. Wish me luck.

I'm just now seeing this thread, but I feel your pain. And viscerally. I bought the T8 with the Japanese water stone and bunch of jigs. I knew there would be learning curve, but I've still not been able to master this. It's far too easy to roll the knife left or right over the wheel and produce a wave in the edge. The problem is that I lack the motor skills for freehand sharpening, which is why I bought the Tormek in the first place. The only solution I've found is to clamp on a second knife jig. More than anything, I'm sure this just shows what a gooftard I am, but this is the only way I can keep a consistent edge bevel using the Tormek. Mostly I've switched to my Wicked Edge, which suits me much better. The Tormek sits in the corner, mostly unused.

 

[nevertakeadayoff]

I received the Tormek and jumped into it 23 hours into the day of a stressful week at work (disaster recovery). Dumb shit.

This morning, I took an intelligent approach and nailed it! I did some test knives and a big kitchen knife.

I was a little nervous when I decided to do my EDC (Benchmade Emissary mini with S30V) but I'm super happy with the outcome. I didn't do the Jap stone yet.
Re-profiled the blade. Tip is PERFECT! Sharpness is as good as I could hope for.
I did mess up on one side (going left-handed) a couple times. I can see a part on the blade that it's finished like the rest of the blade. Could have been easily avoided if I had proper hand placement, so I'm ok with it.

That setup with two knife jigs doesn't look ideal. Maybe the following info will help you.

I started doing the tip part of a ~3.5" tanto blade (a knife I don't care about). Just need to keep it level and should be easy to do with that kind of knife - no turning or lifting required.

I stand infront of the machine.
I keep my finger pressing down on the plastic part of the jig. My thumb is on the clamp part of the jig or on the knife. Other hand is on the handle of the knife.
When turning for the tip of the knife, I focus on rotating the plastic part of the jig with my finger (basically just a downward motion). However, holding the handle of the knife is the most important thing to focus on.

Not sure if any of this is useful or accurate lol. Good luck.

 

[Modernflame]

Thanks for the response. Let me elaborate further. Pocket knives are easy. It's longer, kitchen knives that cause a problem for me as there is more room for error. The second knife jig can only be compared to training wheels, but it keeps the knife flat against the stone along the entire length of the edge. I'm delighted that you've found a way forward, but for me the Tormek is best used for chisels and other tools. I can make it work for knives (two jigs), but I only do this with cheaper blades or edges that have been significantly damaged. For example, my sister asked me to sharpen her kitchen knife. The edge was more full of craters than the surface of the moon, so I put it on the tormek at a slightly obtuse angle and removed the damaged steel in seconds. After that it went into the WE and got a perfect edge in short order. For normal sharpening, I use the WE exclusively.

 

[3D Anvil]

Another guy who uses the Tormek for commercial knife sharpening. He claims he averages about 1 minute per knife, but he's using two grinders (Tormek and a cheap knockoff) and a variable speed buffer for finishing.

 

[Modernflame]

That's really impressive. Completely freehand. This may sound crazy after everything I said above, but that looks much easier than trying to deal with the jig.

 

[TwinStick]

IMHO, the Tormek's forte is fixing an uneven grind & mostly straight knives. I am no expert though, I have the T4 Bushcraft Tormek. I have put some unbelievable sharp edges on some unbelievably dull knives.

I have also seen people ruin a perfectly good knife by over heating the blade edge until it turns blue-ish, on a belt sander, on a grinder with paper wheels & on a regular grinder that was not water cooled. I told them that they were using wayyy too much pressure.

Everything has a learning curve. I have a plethora of sharpening instruments & use them all at different times for different types of blades. Kinda hard to reprofile a 1/4" or 3/8" thick hard use outdoor chopper with a 12" blade, by hand. Good luck with your Tormek.

 

[3D Anvil]

That's really impressive. Completely freehand. This may sound crazy after everything I said above, but that looks much easier than trying to deal with the jig.

It's interesting that he's basically using the system from the Ken Onion Worksharp Grinder, which is you set the angle of the belt (or wheel in this case) and just hold the blade horizontal as you do your pass, while turning the knife in that horizontal plane to keep the blade perpendicular to the wheel.