Tormek tools with paper wheels & HF Belt Grinder

Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
53
Hello,
I'm attaching some pic's of some of the mods I've put on my paper wheels and my Harbor Freight Grinder. Also, a pic of the Tormek Knife Clamp and the Tormek Angle Master tool. I move the Universal Bar from side to side, machine to machine as needed. The angle master will let you quickly find or replicate any angle on 8" and 10" wheels. The system will only allow five images so I'll have to follow in another thread with the last two pic's. Rgds, Jeff

IMG_0975.JPG IMG_0976.JPG IMG_0977.JPG IMG_0978.JPG IMG_0979.JPG
 
You said your wife thinks you have every sharpener under the sun. If you could only choose one, which one would you pick? Have you tried the wicked edge?
 
Harivney,
I haven't tried the WE. The newer one with the upgraded arms, low angle adapters, etc. looks like the ultimate. Cost is the major prohibitive factor for me. Just One? Lowest cost being a factor? EP clone. At $40. delivered can't be beat in my opinion. Least expensive not being a factor, KME would be my choice. I say all of this just having married the EP and KME for what I think is the ultimate for me <$200.

IMG_0973.JPG
 
Nice set up you have there! I was not bold enough to spend that much when I wanted a different type of sharpener to go with my wicked edge and sharpmaker, so I went for a KO worksharp. Works great and fast! Can you post some pictures of the edges you have gotten from the tormek??
 
Harivney,
I haven't tried the WE. The newer one with the upgraded arms, low angle adapters, etc. looks like the ultimate. Cost is the major prohibitive factor for me. Just One? Lowest cost being a factor? EP clone. At $40. delivered can't be beat in my opinion. Least expensive not being a factor, KME would be my choice. I say all of this just having married the EP and KME for what I think is the ultimate for me <$200.

View attachment 425627

Your cam lever jaw clutch, where did you obtain that? I like it, and want one.
 
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NRA,
Thanks for noticing my handiwork. The part is a quick release lever from a road bike's wheel. On a bike it attaches to a part called a skewer. Esenentially, a 3/16" rod threaded on both ends, that passes through the axel & hub of the wheels. One end is a cap nut, the other is the Quick Release Lever you see in the pic. You need to drill and Tap the barrel to 1/4x20 to accommodate the KME rod. Then, the slot in the lever needs to be enlarged to accept the 1/4" rod. I did mine by filing the slot to enlarge it. A skewer assy. should be available on Amazon for about $7.00. Rgds, Jeff
 
Now that I realize what you are using, I want to confirm, what it is it does, is NOT do any sort of jaw release? Only vary the tightness of the spring?

Tell me what this does, exactly.

The red lever on my FrankenSharp has a release function, not a tighten the spring tension function. Mine is like a throughout bearing, pushing the clutch fingers on a manual transmission. The clutch fingers tighten as pushed, but the transmission freewheels.

I believe we have two distinct and separate functions????????
 
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Ernie1980,
My Wet Grinder isn't a Tormek. I do use the Tormek accessories as they are excellent quality. The grinder itself is a Grizzly, it's a Tormek clone and, as you would expect, not quite a Tormek. O.k. for my purposes, though, and the price is right at $159. Sorry, at the moment I don't have any pictures. The main reason I have the wet grinder is for re-beveling. It's fast and accurate.
 
NRA
The quick release clamp is eccentric, so, as the lever moves through it's approximately 180 degrees of travel it will loosen/tighten depending. The range of motion provided by the eccentric action will loosen the jaws to make removal or insertion of the knife in the jaws pretty easy. However, there isn't enough travel to make the jaws flopping around loose, i.e. freewheeling. Bear in mind that the concept here is solid, if I can get just a little more travel out of the eccentric, freewheeling will be accomplished. Once the lever is adjusted for tension, the clamp's primary function is to apply or release that tension. As it is right now it's functional, I use it.
 
Can we get a short vid of you using your tormek jig on the wheels? I have a porter cable as well and it looks like the wheels would be turning into the edge
 
BigBennyB,

Sorry BBB, no video. You can turn the motor around on the grinder body so it turns top to the rear, or, away from you. Piece of cake to do.... Thanks for looking at my set up.....
 
Can you explain the function of the wooded jig in the photo?

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Sure can NRA,
Functionality is a grinding jig at a 20* degree fixed angle for a Harbor freight belt grinder.
The ramps on either side of the belt are 20 degrees compared to zero on the platen. So, with the blade across the ramps, you can get a light contact with the belt by holding short of the stops, or, going all the way to the stops will yield about 1/8" bevel. (this is adjustable) The small holes near the front of each ramp are magnets to stabilize the blade. The jig is held in place to the platen by magnets in the base below the platen so, it pops off easily. Of course, if you want any other angle than 20* you need another jig for the desired angle. With the ramps being 3/8" as they are here you loose 3/8" from the handle to start the grind. Just an idea I was working on.
 
I applaud you in the magnet idea on this mod. Very clever.

This mod would give you very consistent results, time after time.
 
Nice mods 303tango! :thumbup:


Can we get a short vid of you using your tormek jig on the wheels? I have a porter cable as well and it looks like the wheels would be turning into the edge

Maybe this'll help... Tormek actually makes a kit to use with a dry grinder, there's a video on this page.
 
Thanks for the kind words guy's.

I've been focused on the HF belt and have been getting some results I'm happy with. First, I removed the bracket I had set up to use the Tormek universal bar and knife jig. If you look at my HF belt, it's set up to run on it's back and the mount is hinged to allow different angles on the platen. As it sets today, I have spacers made to give me a inclusive angle of 20*, 25*, 30* & 40* at the platen. The blade is always held at 0*. So, I never have to estimate the angle I hold the blade to the belt, it's always level or, at 0*. And the spacer takes maybe 30 seconds to change. IMG_0982.JPG The picture explains it better than I can.. Did I say I'm (for the first time) really happy with the results. Easy, Fast, Repeatable, and, even 'ol dum dum (me) can do it.
 
Thanks for the kind words guy's.

I've been focused on the HF belt and have been getting some results I'm happy with. First, I removed the bracket I had set up to use the Tormek universal bar and knife jig. If you look at my HF belt, it's set up to run on it's back and the mount is hinged to allow different angles on the platen. As it sets today, I have spacers made to give me a inclusive angle of 20*, 25*, 30* & 40* at the platen. The blade is always held at 0*. So, I never have to estimate the angle I hold the blade to the belt, it's always level or, at 0*. And the spacer takes maybe 30 seconds to change. View attachment 429474 The picture explains it better than I can.. Did I say I'm (for the first time) really happy with the results. Easy, Fast, Repeatable, and, even 'ol dum dum (me) can do it.

On a similar objective, I held the HF belt sander on the main feet, tipped up in the front, till I had the angle I wanted. Then I pulled the knife across the belt, like drawing a knife through a SharpMaker. I concentrated at keeping the knife blade plumb, and changed the angle of the sander. It is easier to keep something plumb, than keep something level. IMHO.
 
NRA

My preference - is the horizontal in that it is easier for me to "read" the burr.

I, use both horizontal and vertical - let me have a "moving" abrasive.
 
I, use both horizontal and vertical - let me have a "moving" abrasive.

And God said,
"Let there be moving abrasive."
And there Was,
And It Was Good.

Seriously, cool design and I appreciate the bargain-hunting value consciousness that attends your creation. Does the belt sander allow you to do convex edges? I'm just getting into powered sharpening with my paper wheels but have been wondering about the potential of a supplemental belt sander for doing regrinds and convex edges.

Nice stuff :thumbup:
 
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