Tormek

jdm61

jdm61

itinerant metal pounder
Joined
Aug 12, 2005
Messages
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Are any of you guys using a Tormek T7 to set the initial edge on you knives? I need a faster and more importantly, steadier way to do that as I am going to be trying to put edges on knives that may have Cerakote coatings and such and you can't go back and hand sand those if you mess up.
 
It is all I use in my shop for sharpening knives. It is not the fastest, but it does and excellent job and always consistent. It is expensive, but always delivers excellent results.
My thoughts.

DP
 
Expensive, yes, but cheaper than comparable machines like the Catrasharp or one of the serious F. Dick machines!!!!
Dennis Paish said:
It is all I use in my shop for sharpening knives. It is not the fastest, but it does and excellent job and always consistent. It is expensive, but always delivers excellent results.
My thoughts.

DP
Click to expand...
 
Apart from the "wet wheel" feature, Tormek is all about the jigs, a good jig makes the sharpening job easy and consistent. But if you have a good variable speed belt sander it's not all that hard to make up a tool rest for the belt sander that will work with the Tormek jigs (the secret is to use 12mm rod). The Tormek knife jigs are simple enough that they would probably work with whatever regular tool rest is on the belt sander already
 
I have 2 tormeks, one new with the standard wheel and a very old one
with the Japanese very fine grit wheel. For setting bevel angles, it can't be
beat. Mahoney is right, the guides are what makes the grinder work and you
can modify a KMG to use the guides. The consistancy of the grind is the big
plus. Expensive, yup. But it really works. Buy the best, cry once.
 
Bill Hoffman said:
I have 2 tormeks, one new with the standard wheel and a very old one
with the Japanese very fine grit wheel. For setting bevel angles, it can't be
beat. Mahoney is right, the guides are what makes the grinder work and you
can modify a KMG to use the guides. The consistancy of the grind is the big
plus. Expensive, yup. But it really works. Buy the best, cry once.
Click to expand...
Bill, do you use both of those wheels on any high alloy steels? I am going to be using CPM 3V initially, which is not stupid abrasion resistant, but a little more finicky tan my typical W2 and 1084/15N20, I suspect.
 
After 14 years of belt sander and then Lansky, I ordered a Tormek T7 today. I'm having them substitute the black silicon carbide for the aluminum oxide wheel though right from the "get-go". Maybe I'll end up adding the 4000 grit stone later.
 
I hated it. It was very messy and just not worth the trouble setting everything up. Maybe a little bit of user error, but I have been sharpening things since I was about 8 years old. I immediately ruined a small recurve folder with it. I got a decent edge on my CS voyager, but was overall disappointed. Using the stone grader to go from coarse to fine grits is pretty ridiculous IMO. Just a wet sludgy expensive thing that didnt do what I wanted it to. I tried returning it, and that whole process was a nightmare. Terrible customer service from the woodworking place I got it from, and from Tormek.

I since have gotten a 1x30 from harbor freight and some good quality belts and have not looked back.
 
Are any of you guys using a Tormek T7 to set the initial edge on you knives?
Click to expand...

Yes, I do - and I'm quite happy with it :thumbup:

Obviously, like anything else, you will have to practice a bit before you become proficient... I had LOTS of practice hollow grinding my first blade using only the Tormek (that was before I bought a belt grinder:D ) - took me a few days to grind the blade...). Oh, and as stated in an earlier thread, you need the right jig.
 
Joe,
Sorry it's taken me so long to answer your question. I've had no problem
with higher alloy steels using the tormek. I also do commercial sharpening
at local farmers markets and kitchen stores and haven't found a steel type
the tormek couldn't handle.
Bill
 
From research, I get the impression that if the finish isn't as polished as I want with the S.C. wheel and the leather strop wheel, changing the grinding wheel to th Japanese waterstone is quick on the newer machines. Cost of that wheel is nasty, though!
 
Bill, do you have any direct comparison experience with other powered solutions?

Don't laugh guys, but the new variable speed (3/4" belt) Ken Onion Work Sharp grinder looks to be a solid performer from everything I've read.

I'm curious if any of you have experience with both systems.

My thoughts on the Tormek is that it's well suited for people that make knives, but not so much for doing a couple of blades at a time. Usually mess and set-up are the problems cited when the Tormek comes up.

I don't have either system, but I've done a fair amount of research on both.
 
I've used the T-7 Tormek to put the secondary bevels on Sandvik 12C27 and 14C28 with Rc 59/60 with no problems. The primary bevel is taken to about .020" before heat treating, then finished on Tormek. Only issue I have is the grind is pretty coarse looking - even after using the leather wheel with diamond polish for final touch up. The edge is sharp - a single push down the leg (no hairs left on arm:)) shaves hair clean. A person with the experience and skill level wouldn't need the Tormek, but for me it helps.

Ken H>
 
I have one and love it! I sharpen drill bits,wood tools,knives scissors and the occasional lathe tool on it. I think I have every jig known to man plus a couple I made for it. It does leave the edge a bit rough but that can be polished out using the leather wheel, or get one of the Japanese water stones. They will leave a polished edge. It was hard to choke down the initial cost, but I'm glad i did now.
 
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