Torx Screw Stuck

[LG&M]

I disagree, torx is awesome. Mr. Phillips should be shot.

+1 Phillips suck
If you can clamp the knife some how it will be a lot easier. Then take the driver and tap it in with a mallet and turn it at the same time. If it is really bad use the next bigger size. Or you could try one of these.http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com.../irwin-spiral-screw-extractor-set-280875.aspx Found at most hardware stores. I have found most screws in knives have loctite on them.

 

[Dog of War]

If the knife is of some value to you and in nice condition, you might want to get hold of BFC member STR who does knife repair. I'm sure he can handle whatever needs to be done and have it come out very well.

FWIW, IMO Torx hardware is nearly on a part with hex/allen head, much better than phillips.

 

[jzmtl]

I disagree, torx is awesome. Mr. Phillips should be shot.

Never worked on any DCX vehicle I see, salt+torx=broken torx bits and stripped torx bolts. :barf:

 

[wwells20]

After taking apart my folder for cleaning, one of the torx screws (T6) got stuck. It is at the point where the torx driver can no longer grab on to the screw to tighten/loosen. Does anyone know of a way to get the torx screw out?

I sometimes have luck with a T-7 bit. Robbie Robertson said he has had luck with using a drop of super glue on the head, and in your case, a T-6 bit.
Hope this helps.

 

[RonSC]

Any Micro-sized fastener (regardless of head configuration) that has had a thread sealant (Loctite, etc.) applied can be a potential problem where removal is concerned. These sealants are designed for varying degrees of permanence depending on thread size and intended application. Broken heads are a very common problem with these Lilliputian screws in scope rings and bases simply due to over-tightening and/or use of improper grade of sealant for the application. The best solution to prevent head over-torquing during removal is to always assume a locking agent has been used and heat the fastener prior to removal, This can be easily accomplished by inserting the appropriate sized allen, torx, wrench and GRADUALLY heating it with a small torch or bic lighter (while checking periodically for looseness)to break the bond. While this may not help now it will save you future headaches. Hope you can resolve the problem.

Good luck,
Ron

 

[RonSC]

FWIW:
By design, TORX head screws resist cam-out better than Phillips head, Allen or slot head screws. Where Phillips heads were designed to cause the driver to cam out, to prevent over-tightening, TORX heads were designed to prevent it. The reason for this was the development of better torque-limiting automatic screwdrivers for use in factories. Rather than relying on the tool slipping out of the screw head when a torque level is reached, and thereby risking damage to the driver tip, screw head and workpiece, the drivers were designed to consistently achieve a desired torque. Although more efficient from an engineering/mechanical standpoint Torx fasteners can more easily be over-torqued before head failure occurs than the aforementioned fasteners, resulting in greater likelihood of head failure upon removal.

Ron

 

[jzmtl]

Any Micro-sized fastener (regardless of head configuration) that has had a thread sealant (Loctite, etc.) applied can be a potential problem where removal is concerned. These sealants are designed for varying degrees of permanence depending on thread size and intended application. Broken heads are a very common problem with these Lilliputian screws in scope rings and bases simply due to over-tightening and/or use of improper grade of sealant for the application. The best solution to prevent head over-torquing during removal is to always assume a locking agent has been used and heat the fastener prior to removal, This can be easily accomplished by inserting the appropriate sized allen, torx, wrench and GRADUALLY heating it with a small torch or bic lighter (while checking periodically for looseness)to break the bond. While this may not help now it will save you future headaches. Hope you can resolve the problem.

Good luck,
Ron

Soldering iron also works.

 

[Hard H2O]

FWIW:
By design, TORX head screws resist cam-out better than Phillips head, Allen or slot head screws. Where Phillips heads were designed to cause the driver to cam out, to prevent over-tightening, TORX heads were designed to prevent it. The reason for this was the development of better torque-limiting automatic screwdrivers for use in factories. Rather than relying on the tool slipping out of the screw head when a torque level is reached, and thereby risking damage to the driver tip, screw head and workpiece, the drivers were designed to consistently achieve a desired torque. Although more efficient from an engineering/mechanical standpoint Torx fasteners can more easily be over-torqued before head failure occurs than the aforementioned fasteners, resulting in greater likelihood of head failure upon removal.

Ron

Exactly. They were designed to accelerate assembly not to improve the end users life. They are also nice to provide a limited amount of anti-tamper protection. Not everyone has a Torx set lying around.

 

[dvsdev]

So I put in the proper torx wrench and heat the screw or the wrench?

 

[Broos]

Heating can unstick siezed parts, but don't count on thermal expansion helping much if the screw and the part are both steel - they both expand te same. For a steel screw in an aluminum frame, heating could help, since Al expands more than steel when heated. Heating a steel screw in a Ti part will likely make it harder to get out - steel expands more than Ti when heated. Heating the steel lid on a glass jar works, too.

 

[dvsdev]

What about steel parts? And most importantly, which part to heat? Screw or wrench?

 

[ninjajoe]

+1 Phillips suck
If you can clamp the knife some how it will be a lot easier. Then take the driver and tap it in with a mallet and turn it at the same time. If it is really bad use the next bigger size. Or you could try one of these.http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com/...et-280875.aspx Found at most hardware stores. I have found most screws in knives have loctite on them.

Agree and agree. I'm a handyman, and I do allot of remodeling so I'm always building and disassembling temporary wooden structures, and driving screws at odd angles. whenever I have to use a screw, its ALWAYS torx! It made my life easier when they started making torx head wood / deck / etc. screws, I HATE Phillips. Torx goes in easier and comes out easier, every time!

The spiral screw extractor would have been my first thought, although I have had them break off in the fastener frequently. However this is mostly with seized and rusted automotive bolts, should work fine against a little locktite. Depending on the screw, you might have to use a cobalt bit if its hardened.