Touching up Buck's 420 HC?

JNieporte said:
I don't let mine get dull enough that they no longer slice paper. So, I use a smooth ceramic stick, then strop with medium pressure on a loaded leather belt, then strop very lightly on 3000-grit sandpaper. If I get a used Buck or have used mine hard and it won't slice paper, I do the same, except I add a coarse or medium (depending on how dull it is) Smith's diamond paddle. If I want to reprofile, some sandpaper is in order.
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Do you use the ceramic stick freehand? Could you describe the technique you use with it?

Thanks!
 
pinnah said:
Plumerdv and Badhammer, I've heard of the Sharpmaker but not familiar with it's use. Two questions....

1) Does it include rods that act as ceramic hones and not as (destructive) sharpening stones? I'm looking for something I can use while minimizing sharpening damage (as I do with stropping 1095).

2) Does it fixed the edge angle for you? My experience with the Lansky system as convinced me that I don't have time to get good enough free hand to put a good edge on. One reason I've steered clear of honing steels/rods is that my understanding (could be wrong on this) is that they are less tolerant of edge angle variations than strops are when used freehand.
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The base Sharpmaker comes with medium and fine ceramic rods. It has inserts for the rods at 30 and 40 degree inclusive so you are putting either a 15 or 20 degree bevel on each side depending on which set of inserts you choose. It works great for regular touch up but for reprofiling or sharpening a really dull blade you'll want the diamond rods to make those task easier and faster. You can also get ultra fine rods to put an even finer finished edge if that's your preference. I've got the Sharpmaker, Wicked Edge and a strop. I use the Sharpmaker way for then the other two. It's just easy and works well for me.
 
JNieporte said:
I don't let mine get dull enough that they no longer slice paper. So, I use a smooth ceramic stick, then strop with medium pressure on a loaded leather belt, then strop very lightly on 3000-grit sandpaper. If I get a used Buck or have used mine hard and it won't slice paper, I do the same, except I add a coarse or medium (depending on how dull it is) Smith's diamond paddle. If I want to reprofile, some sandpaper is in order.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply.

Do you use your stick freehand?

Could you describe your technique for using it in more detail?

Thanks again.
 
pinnah said:
Razorblades, two questions...

1) Do you use the sandpaper/mousepad as a strop (pulling the blade back across the paper) or as a stone (pushing the blade across the paper).

2) When doing this, do you do it freehand or with an edge guide of some sort?

Thanks.
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I use the mousepad/sandpaper method to establish a new edge onto the knife,slightly convexed edges are what i prefer ,I find they last longer,I do everything freehand,and there is never a scratch on the blade anywhere when i'm done,I l,earned to keep the same angle while sharpening knives freehand,The last step i use is a leather strop,loaded with green compound most times,I get excellent long lasting edges on 420 hc with this method.
 
I am guessing that when you use the sharpmaker your intention is to keep the blade perpendicular to the table. I use an old three stone wet stone. I was taught to use a wet stone and have no need to use anything else. I made myself a strop and use it to finish up after the fine stone. I don't find 420 any harder than any other steel to sharpen. 440 takes a while longer but I enjoy spending time with my knives. They are like family to me. This sounds strange but it's true...
 
I think they answered you well in the Maintenance Forum. The two steels respond differently. DM
 
RAZORBLADES said:
I use the mousepad/sandpaper method to establish a new edge onto the knife,slightly convexed edges are what i prefer ,I find they last longer.
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Razorblades, very interesting. I was able to do some reading on it. I have an Opinel #8 and from what I understand, it's blade proflle is convex but by "slightly convex", I'm guessing you mean right near the edge and not the entire profile of the blade. Can't see being able to turn a hollow ground Buck blade into an Opinel style convex blade other than near the edge. More like a rounded off forum of a double-bevel?

Question... how do you work off the burr/wire edge with the sandpaper and mouse pad approach?
 
pinnah said:
Question... how do you work off the burr/wire edge with the sandpaper and mouse pad approach?
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You can make the secondary bevel into a convex edge, instead of flat, while the primary grind is hollow.
Also, to remove a burr/wire edge, just use less and less pressure, and fewer strokes per side, and by raising the blade's angle for the last couple swipes. Soon it will all be gravy.
 
mbjannusch said:
I don't find 420 any harder than any other steel to sharpen. 440 takes a while longer but I enjoy spending time with my knives. They are like family to me. This sounds strange but it's true...
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Nothing strange but I may be the wrong person to ask. I get pretty nervous if I don't have a project in my hands of some sort. My wife drew the line at me overhauling bicycle parts in the TV room. Something about the smell of PB Blaster and grease stains on the couch... In response, I took (and mastered) knitting but the only person willing to be seen with me while I knit is my dog. The Lansky system and strop board show up in the TV room on a regular basis. Funny... the snarky comments from the kids stopped when I exchanged the knitting needles for sharp knives.

Thanks all for the help. I need to work on my skills at getting rid of the burr edge. Practice practice.
 
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