toughest utility folder?

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Sep 19, 2001
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Let's keep this under $150. This is for a friend, and he can lose/break ANYTHING, so it will need to be replaceable without hurting the wallet too badly. No need for uber-tacticalness either, work knife. Thinking maybe a Buck Strider mini. Any other suggestions?
 
Check out some of John Greco's folders. Not too expensive, he won't break them, and they are far tougher than the "tactical folders" that get all the talk around here. Probably won't handle corrosive environments well at all, though, since both the blade and handles are tool steel (edit: they're not BARE tool steel, but coatings wear).
I prefer something like the BM 710HS, but you said toughest...
 
Two thoughts. The CRKT Mirage is probably the best value knife in my book. Particularly if the person is prone to losing/ breaking things.

On the other end of that range is the Spyderco Chinook. A little bigger, but built like a tank.

Good luck in your search. There will probably be a lot of excellent recomendations.
 
The Buck Strider mini is a great idea, but if he's a real klutz, a lockback might be safer. The Buck 110 is a classic, solid, sharp, cheap.
 
I have an old REKAT Pioneer which is incredibly tough. They are not made anymore, but have one of the strongest locks ever, and the dual steel liners & thick G10 scales make for a very serious tool. BRAWNY - he might lose it, but I don't think he could break it, short of whaling on the thing with a sledgehammer. You can probably still find one somewhere.
 
Al Mar SERE2000. Unstoppable. I'm not technically knowledgable enough to tell you why it is so good, but after 2+ years of use it has never come close to failure, amd has had plenty of opportunities to do so.

I am always amused by people who "review" a knife based on opening the box, or a weekend hike. My SERE has been carried and used as mentioned, and is the first knife I pick up if I think there is a remote possibility I'll need a knife.
 
The Buck Strider is built like a tank. But it is pretty large, a mini Buck Strider would be a better EDC.

If you don't care about size, the TOPS 747 Magnum (Clip point) or the TOPS 711 Magnum (Tanto Point) are very stout and strong knives.
 
Spyderco Military, BM 710, BM AFCK, Al Mar SERE, Buck 110, Buck 112, Spyderco Endura, Spyderco Delica, BM 550/551, BM 555/556
 
Hmm, let me add a couple things. One handed operation is about a must. He often only has one hand free, and is just used to being able to thumb a knife open. Also, I think keeping the blade around 3" and a narrow-ish profile when closed would be best (he keeps a knife clipped on his belt, not in pocket) Now that I think about it, something with a left hand clip would be good, since he carries it that way.

Tip strength is also important. He digs, prys, scrapes, twists, etc. I'll have to take another look at the Griptilian, that may be another, cheaper option. I love the Axis on my 730 and 806. I had even considered suggesting the 730, but the primary grind is too thick for slicing, IMO.
 
CS Voyagers. Light, tougher than nails, excellent steel (AUS8), easy to sharpen, corrosion resistant, super strong lockback, one hand opening and closing, thin for convenient carry IWB or out, available in a variety of sizes and configurations (tanto or clip), serrated or not, and affordable.
 
I'll second the Greco suggestion.

I have lots of folders, but the Greco always comes along when I'm doing something that will likely call for more than simple cutting.

It is rough around the edges and quite unattractive, but it is superior to comparable factory folders in terms of both raw strength and cutting ability. Very easy to take down for cleaning and maintainence, and designed to work despite being cloged with dirt or debris.
 
Originally posted by fishbulb
but it is superior to comparable factory folders in terms of both raw strength and cutting ability. ... designed to work despite being cloged with dirt or debris.

fishbulb, could you please explain how it is superior and what tests you undertook to determine that it has more raw strength and cutting ability than comparable folders..also could you please how explain how you determined how a folder is classified as comparable...and please explain each and every element of how it was designed to work despite being clogged with dirt or debris? I am very curious about this engineering marvel.

Thank you,
RL
 
Originally posted by RL
fishbulb, could you please explain how it is superior and what tests you undertook to determine that it has more raw strength and cutting ability than comparable folders..also could you please how explain how you determined how a folder is classified as comparable...and please explain each and every element of how it was designed to work despite being clogged with dirt or debris? I am very curious about this engineering marvel.

Thank you,
RL

W.S. DeWeese: Al Mar SERE2000. Unstoppable.
--Have you ever tried to stop it???

fishface5: I have an old REKAT Pioneer which is incredibly tough.
--How did you determine this incredible toughness???

:rolleyes:

Can we please go on the assumption that he is speaking from his own experience with this and other knives, and leave it at that? I really don't feel like wading through 17 pages of testing text every time somebody wants to give an opinion.
 
Originally posted by t1mpani
I really don't feel like wading through 17 pages of testing text every time somebody wants to give an opinion.

how incredibly inconsiderate of me to inconvenience you that way...I mean if YOU don't feel like reading (or clicking) let's just stop the whole thing :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

RL
 
Oh look--claws.

You missed the earlier part where I was (albeit subtly) asking you why you weren't demanding substantiation of every other claim on the thread, didn't you?
 
Originally posted by RL
please explain each and every element of how it was designed to work despite being clogged with dirt or debris? I am very curious about this engineering marvel.

Gladly.

First and foremost, there is a significant difference between the diameter of the pivot hole of the blade and the pivt pin which is screwed through the handles; far more than in any factory folder of which I am aware. The same applies to the pivot washers. Because of this when the knife is exposed to sand or similar substances the pivot assembly does not bind up as it would on factory folders which feature minimal clearances between the parts. If you're really that interested I can take some measurements to further clarify this difference.

I observed this first when working on a concrete project about two months ago. After being used to slice open bags of cement the knife was caked with grit particles but contiued to open and close reliably and with a surprising degree of smoothness. Upon disassembly for cleaning it was evident that the extra space allowed the foreign material which did find its way into the pivot to collect in the empty area and not interfere with the operation of the tool.

Two other features contribute to this resistance to clogging. The open frame lock design is naturally self cleaning and because the knife is designed for near 100% lock engagement when new it will still lock reliably even if the mating surfaces are themselves dirty. I really like my BM Axis locks, but they are far more likely to be rough and/or unreliable if dirty. The same applies to lockbacks, and there are numerous reports of lockbacks failing to lock securely due to simple accumulation of pocket lint in the notch on the blade tang. The open spine encourages the knife to shed debris better than one with a full back spacer, as well.

The second feature is that the knife is designed for user disassembly and cleaning, and it is not considered "abuse" or some such nonsense if you take it apart. The construction is similar to the Sebenza; remove three bolts and the thing opens right up. This renders it more suitable for usage around small particles than knives which are either a)pinned together and therefore not able to be disassembled, b)assembled with specialty fasteners that make disassembly unduly difficult c)manufactured by a company that considers disassembly to be a violation of their warranty. As car as I know only production companies that allow disassembly are Chris Reeve and Emerson.

Originally posted by RL
..also could you please how explain how you determined how a folder is classified as comparable...

This should be fairly simple, perhaps one handed opening locking folders with blades that are roughly 3-4 inches in length which can be purchased for under $150. I would also recommend excluding knives which feature extremely unconventional functional designs, such as Balisongs, as the inclusion of these products would make a direct comparison rather difficult. Of course, this may vary with an individual's needs and preferences.

Originally posted by RL
fishbulb, could you please explain how it is superior and what tests you undertook to determine that it has more raw strength and cutting ability than comparable folders..

Perhaps this could have been phrased better. The blade design of the Falcon is neither a thin slicing blade which cannot handle much in the way of lateral loads (Spyderco Military or BM 710, for example) nor a "slightly sharpened prybar" style which is an inefficient cutter (Buck/Strider, for example).

While there are certainly other knives which this can be said about (Al Mar SERE 2K comes to mind) I am not aware of any which drops from a full fifth of an inch near the pivot to less than half of that thicnkess halfway out along the blade and ends up less 1/20 of an inch thick at the tip before encountering the edge grind. This gives you the best of both worlds, as there is an area which can be used for simple cutting and a much heavier area which can be used for more demanding prying or similar tasks.

The all steel handle offers some interesting benefits as well. Simply going by the materials' properties it will be stronger than a handle of similar dimensions made of thinly lined or unlined G-10 or FRN, in the absence of a gross manufacturing or materials defect.

I hope this has been of assistance to you. Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
 
Originally posted by fishbulb

I hope this has been of assistance to you. Please let me know if you have any additional questions.

Immensely..I knew I could count on your incredible engineering prowess and indepth understanding of design.

Originally posted by fishbulb


First and foremost, there is a significant difference between the diameter of the pivot hole of the blade and the pivt pin which is screwed through the handles...If you're really that interested I can take some measurements to further clarify this difference.

When you say significant, do you mean statistically significant? Please do take measurements...three decimal places will be fine.

Originally posted by fishbulb

I observed this first when working on a concrete project about two months ago.


I see...I thought you had communicated with Mr. Greco and had first hand knowledge of his design intentions.


Originally posted by fishbulb


After being used to slice open bags of cement the knife was caked with grit particles but contiued to open and close reliably and with a surprising degree of smoothness.

shocking...I have handled a few brand new Greco folders and they were nearly impossible to open or close...perhaps concrete grit improves the performance?

Originally posted by t1mpani


Oh look--claws.

You missed the earlier part where I was (albeit subtly) asking you why you weren't demanding substantiation of every other claim on the thread, didn't you?


Oh look, an angel! Thank you t1mpani for evaluating my posts, thank you for being there to guide me through the process, thank you for offering an explanation of your highly complex posts, thank you for caring enough about me to interpret my understanding and feelings, thank you thank you thank you.

RL
 
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