Toughness of M4

About to leave work, so a quick thing while I think on the post.

Douglas fir as well as most other species of resinous soft woods (long and short needle pines), can be Very hard on a knife edge if the weather conditions are on the cold/freezing end of the spectrum.

I don't know your particular circumstances regarding.your W2 blade, but it is worth mentioning.
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Regarding your quote, I did notice it was Your post until I was in the copy/paste portion and it was only to show that test results can be as varied as they are conclusive. Solely depending on the shape/size/quality of the alloy and heat treat.

Asking how M4 is (as a blanket question), is a bit too vague since it can differ greatly by maker and even slightly by batch and location in the heat treat oven.
So even a few knives from one (good) heat treat batch can be flawed.
 
M4 is a great steel -- one of my favorites for a steel with well-balanced toughness and wear resistance.
When done right, it's questionable if there's any blade steel that has a better balance of the above ↑
 
Sounds like I need to try out a knife with a M4 blade. Wish there were more options.


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A few months back I bought a used/ LNIB Gayle Bradley 1 and did not care for it, and sold it without using it. I know it is a very popular knife, just wasn't for me.


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Try the GB2.
It is less of a "Work knife" and more of an "EDC knife". I know that they share a name, but plenty of people say that they are actually different models, just designed by the same guy and made by the same company.

Aside from that, there is the PM2, Manix 2, Military, Mantra 1&2 and Air. There might be a few others for Spyderco but I can't recall them immediately.

Benchmade has the Griptilians, 710, 810, Rift, Lum, 940, and possibly others but again my memory fails me...

All of the above are available in M4, some for more $ than others (like a 940 or 710)
 
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The m4 version of the 710, rift and PM2 interest me, but the secondhand market for them are very expensive. I may end up with a 810


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This is always a possibility.
Josh from Razor Edge Knives does regrinds. These photos are of someone else's 810 that I shamelessly stole for future reference, my apologies for not remembering who was the "donor".

 
The only thing holding me back on the 810 is that it is a really big knife. That regrind looks cool.


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I'm still thinking a GB2 might suit your needs nicely.
 
I'm still thinking a GB2 might suit your needs nicely.


I appreciate the advice, and you may be right, but there are other reasons that I do not want a GB2 that I won't say because it seems to start a huge debate on here LOL


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Actually, some people are switching over to Vanadis 4E or CPM 4V. CPM M4 takes a VERy fine stable edge, but it is not as tough as some other steels like 4V/4E, 3V, PD# 1, L6, INFI, etc.


No n00b only my information can be right! Raaaaah!!!

In all seriousness though that is interesting to find out. M4 definately was the reigning champ forna while but newer better steels keep coming out. I hadn't followed much of the BladeSports recently. Thanks for letting me know. I love learning new info.

Now to lord it over other people's heads.
 
Sounds like I need to try out a knife with a M4 blade. Wish there were more options.


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The Mantra is another nice option in M4.
Similar to the Delica, but in nicer materials and with a flipper.
I love mine!

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I recently got a Bark River sheath knife in CPM-4V. I haven't gotten to the 4.5" blade but i' m experimenting with handle . My knives are all working knives and I find the BR handle is a highly polished phenolic resin. I feel this is far too slippery for safe use as in taking apart a deer. So far I've tried 80 grit paper which helps . But I wondered if any of you hade suggestions for modifying the handle to give a safe gripping texture ??
Blade use will come later .
 
I would try a 220 or 400 grit sandpaper for a roughing, since 600 starts to polish the fibers off.

If the Grip still is not where you would like, try having it media blasted. That should disrupt the resin while leaving the maleable fibers not as impacted and cut by the abrasive.
 
Like NJ said, blast then a spray of WD 40 or some kind of artist's fixative bring back the color? I have read that light blasting eats away the resin in the "spaces" faster than the fibers..
I recently got a Bark River sheath knife in CPM-4V. I haven't gotten to the 4.5" blade but i' m experimenting with handle . My knives are all working knives and I find the BR handle is a highly polished phenolic resin. I feel this is far too slippery for safe use as in taking apart a deer. So far I've tried 80 grit paper which helps . But I wondered if any of you hade suggestions for modifying the handle to give a safe gripping texture ??
Blade use will come later .
 
Actually, some people are switching over to Vanadis 4E or CPM 4V. CPM M4 takes a VERy fine stable edge, but it is not as tough as some other steels like 4V/4E, 3V, PD# 1, L6, INFI, etc.

This is very true. I had the Mid-Atlantic cut back in March at my place. Dan Keffeler had a new comp knife in the Vanadis steel he used. Big Chris was running CPM 4V with his comp knife. Donovan Phillips, Brad Stallsmith, myself and the rest of the competitors were using M4. My comp knife in M4 was used twice in the training and competition. Edge stability and sharpness was excellent. All we did was strop inbetween training and the competition. I run my M4 at 63/64 rc. M4 is a solid performer and is still the most used steel in Bladesports.
Scott
 
Just so there is no confusion, we are talking about CPM M4, not cast M4, right? The impression that I get is that old school castM4 has the crazy abrasion resistance, but not the increased. toughness.
 
Yes by all means for a knife use CPM M4 ! The CPM type has fine evenly distributed carbides => tougher !!
 
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