Originally posted by HM:
[- Is the small knife sheath detachable from the big one?
Yes. It unscrews with a P-38 can opener cleverly concealed in the belt loop. The leg cord then detaches to make the little blade into a neck knife. You can also rig a belt carry with the cord.
- What is the weight of the big 10" knife compared to the Brute, 9" Anaconda, Battle Mistress?
The Armageddon weighs just under 24 oz, the Anaconda about 22 oz. The brute 22.3 and the Busse's are in a box somewhere so I don't know.
- Piggyback-style combos were popular among hunters in Europe one time probably for good reasons.
I've used the style for years. My Simonich Nordooh is similarily equipped as is my Anaconda.
- I really like the flat ground (similar to large blade classics like the Jeff Randall endorsed Livesay survival knife, Battle Mistress, and CS Trailmaster) over the sabre ground (of others like the Brute and Anaconda). What difference in performance (chopping, binding, cutting) did you see between the Armageddon and the others you have tried?
Technique changes. The flat grind tends to bind more in soft woods so chops are made at alternate angles to free the chunks. Sabre grinds tend to be more ax like and toss the chunks.
Every knife is different in balance, geometry and weighting. The handle is critical for me. I find the Brute, the Anaconda and the Armageddon to be most comfortable. I do not like the Busse handle shape any longer (here we go again) as it cause MY hand blisters. This is an individual preference. I should add that I have dozens of large knives and there is no way I can review them all. Each has it's strong points.
- The index finger groove, the first time as I have seen on a big chopper blade, transformed into a subhilt. I only have seen it on fighting blades so far to facilitate the pull of the blade. Since even deep finger grooves have been disliked by some, I am wondering what is the rational behind this twist? Isn't it abrasive on the index finger during heavy chopping? Does it fit the hand with thick gloves too?
I don't use the forward finger choil as a grip when chopping. The subhilt/finger groove on the slabs allows the blade to rotate on the index finger. I use a loose snapping motion when I chop and the extra rotation I get on the groove facilitates blade control. I've only had the knife for a few days but I spent the better part of a day knocking down small trees and brush as well as using a baton to split wood (if it fails I want it to fail where I can go to my backup). In that day I had no hotspots or bruising.
The forward finger choil is great for choking up on the blade for cutting grooves in wood (to weaken the wood prior to breaking as in trap construction) and for light carving. It balances almost perfectly in that forward choil. Leather gloves work fine. Insulated or wool gloves might present a problem tho I haven't had a chance to test that yet.
- Finally, any opinion or thoughts on the optimal length of a 'large' blade? We already passed 9 inch, is 11 inch even better?
For my money I am about at short sword length now
9 - 10 inches is about as large as I want. There is only about a little over an ounce of difference between 9 inch and 10 inch. The problems are with mounting my horse or bike and sitting. I usually sling the big blades for that reason.
Once you are over 10 inches you might as well go for the Becker machete. That is a great tool and at a fair price to boot.
That's my opinion...
I hope it helps.
Ron
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Ron has done a fine job flagging questions.. The handle has been a work in progress for some time now. He describes how it works very well. The integral sub-hilt gives control without death gripping the handle IMO, and in my experience it doesnt raise any hot spots. Some people may have different results but thats always to be expected with any design. Anyway thanks Ron, hope the set serves ya well..