Tracker Cover (my name for it), front loading sheath for a Dave Beck Tracker

[ddavelarsen]

Damn Steve, er Roger, I mean Dan, that's a great design! Very clean work too, and the carving looks just fine to me. I enjoy looking at your leatherwork a lot, thanks for the inspiration.

 

[blgoode]

MAn.....like you said Dan ~

 

[Dan Gray]

Damn Steve, er Roger, I mean Dan, that's a great design! Very clean work too, and the carving looks just fine to me. I enjoy looking at your leatherwork a lot, thanks for the inspiration.

Dave is that you? I can't see you from here

To help to bring this thread back to the original topic, Wow! Dan, that is a great looking sheath. What a great idea to keep the teeth from hurting the leather. I just might be shooting you a email about making one for me, but a lefty model.

Ron

any time Ron just do it by e-mail please no selling in Shop talk..

had to do it Mike

Thanks Guys with you guys around who needs weed pills booze rr OK we'll keep the Booze around..

 

[Daniel Koster]

There are kits you can buy to set teeth on a saw - crosscut style. Makes it a heckuvalot easier than freehand. By far, the easiest way is to use a motorized chainsaw sharpener/grinder. Has the correct angle already dialed in - not much error.


Dan - call that sheath a "quickdraw".


I've been wondering how to solve the sawback problem myself. Dwayne (leatherman) and I came up with the idea of wedging a small piece of kydex (or plastic) into the sheath at that point - one that could be replaced. Make sense? Anyway.....yours is certainly nicer....and cleaner.

Well done!



Does your finger ever contact the saw teeth when deploying?

 

[Temper]

Sorry to hijack the thread again Dan,

Daniel, would this do it?

 

[Temper]

Dwayne (leatherman) and I came up with the idea of wedging a small piece of kydex (or plastic) into the sheath at that point - one that could be replaced. Make sense? Anyway.....yours is certainly nicer....and cleaner.

How about some quality (but very thin) shim metal, chances are the teeth will just slip off it.

 

[Daniel Koster]

It would have to be soft enough to not dull the teeth.


Yes, Temper, that looks like one that would work. It will take a few tries to get the idea down pat, so keep a crosscut saw nearby and practice on scrap.

 

[Dan Gray]

There are kits you can buy to set teeth on a saw - crosscut style. Makes it a heckuvalot easier than freehand. By far, the easiest way is to use a motorized chainsaw sharpener/grinder. Has the correct angle already dialed in - not much error.

Dan - call that sheath a "quickdraw".

I've been wondering how to solve the sawback problem myself. Dwayne (leatherman) and I came up with the idea of wedging a small piece of kydex (or plastic) into the sheath at that point - one that could be replaced. Make sense? Anyway.....yours is certainly nicer....and cleaner.

Well done!

Does your finger ever contact the saw teeth when deploying?

nope Dan it comes right out real nice just by the Handle..

I thought of placing plastic of some sort in there too and I think it would work.. just make it as part of the welt.. it should only cut out the part in the aria of the tooth points and then stop wearing on it. or you could shape to fit first. this guy wanted a full handle draw also, coming out is great putting it back in just takes a little practice then it's not a problem..

on the Chain saw file guide pictured YOU pre set the angles, be it for hard wood or soft wood and you need to set the depth of file cut into the gullet and all this depends on the brand of chain you're using..

now on scratcher teeth like the Tracker or carpenter saw.
a set in a tooth is where the tooth is set out past the main part of the blade.
normally done with a set tool. chain saw teeth has these set in them when the tooth is formed..the tracker blades have zero set. if you cut deep
with any saw with no set it will bind on you.. thanks guys for looking