Tree sap stains and wood burns on bit?

Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
1,944
Hey guys been a while since I posted. Work has been busy, haven't gotten as much time with the new axe as I would like but trying to fix that. I used her today and some weird things happened.
Axe in question is the gransfors American felling axe. Now after using it a bit to cut some year old rounds into firewood, I noticed the edge, well the shiny part of the head, not the part with the forged finish, got some deep dark brown marks, that don't look like rust or tree sap. They almost look like burns maybe from the hard oak?
And then as I was carrying some wood to the fire, I stuck the axe in a tree in my yard for about 10 minutes only, instead of laying it on the ground in the dark, and when I grabbed it again I see the corner of the bit on both sides of the head had a dark almost purple-ish black stain, the part of the edge that was in the tree. It was only there maybe 10 minutes or less, and I have had this happen before on an old axe I forgot about in a tree overnight, but I figured it was the tree sap staining the edge after sitting there so many hours. But 10 minutes? The stain almost looks like t dipped the corner of the bit in grape juice. Not sticky or gummy, more like a liquid stain if that makes any sense.
So, I tried goo gone which lightened it a bit, and some acetone which worked a little better, but the stains are still there and it's bothering me since the darn thing was so expensive. Now I know many will probably say just use it, and I will. But am real curious to what the reason is for future use.
And of course, what do you think I can try to remove the stains? Or should I try some steel wool or sandpaper? If yes than what grit sandpaper or wool?
I don't want to screw up the beautiful look of the axe though. To me it is a piece of art, but it also just begging to be put to some hard use.

What can I try to get it off? Thanks guys, I am just loving this axe though.

Dave
 
paint thinner/minerals spirits is what I would try next

edit: if it is sap you should try mayonaise...my mom used to use it quite effectively on me when I was a kid and would come home with pine tree sap all over me from climbing the trees in the yard
 
I don't want to screw up the beautiful look of the axe though. To me it is a piece of art, but it also just begging to be put to some hard use.

What can I try to get it off? Thanks guys, I am just loving this axe though.

Dave

Do you want a wall hanger or a working tool? Sounds like you want it both ways. Use the axe, care for it like the fine tool that it is, and maybe don't worry about a few stains and scuffs.
 
paint thinner/minerals spirits is what I would try next

edit: if it is sap you should try mayonaise...my mom used to use it quite effectively on me when I was a kid and would come home with pine tree sap all over me from climbing the trees in the yard

I think I know what you are describing. It's almost like caramelized sugar. Mineral spirits should take it off but if it is not actively corroding the blade then I would not worry too much.

That look we all like from well-used tools started somewhere :)
 
Use coarse steel wool and wd40. Dont use sand paper or scotch pads unless you want shiny scratches. Good luck.
 
Brass wire wheel on a drill will do it. But then again who wants an axe to look new. Sort of like showing up at a construction site with new hammer and boots.
 
The axe is developing a patina, probably reacting with acids in the wood. Normal sharpening will bring it back to normal. I use a buffing wheel on a bench grinder when I want a mirror polish.
 
The axe is developing a patina, probably reacting with acids in the wood. Normal sharpening will bring it back to normal. I use a buffing wheel on a bench grinder when I want a mirror polish.

Good old carbon steel.

I remember as a kid how that reaction bothered me on my new Case hunting knife. Still using that now vintage knife and embrace the beautiful patina.
 
. . .
I don't want to screw up the beautiful look of the axe though. To me it is a piece of art, but it also just begging to be put to some hard use.
. . .

It's your axe so maintain it the way you want to. For tools or any other item a person owns, they have their own idea of how that particular item is maintained. I have a friend who bought a new Gransfors hatchet about 10 years ago and has never used it. It sits in his gun safe. On the other hand some people will leave an axe outdoors stuck in a chopping block. The heads rust and the handles turn grey and weathered. This might be called the "Full Patina" treatment. :D

. . .
What can I try to get it off?. . .

You've started with chemical solvents. You might try something with acid in it. This is probably a long shot, but if you have it on hand try oven cleaner. If you can't find something that works, I suppose abrasives are next. You will probably have to find out for yourself how fine or course to use to achieve the original look.

Bob
 
I use a citrus cleaner and a Scotch Brite pad to clean most stuff before sharpening. Works well enough and its cheap.
 
Sorry for the delay just got home from work. Thanks guys, for all the help and suggestions. I particularly like the "showing up to construction site with new hammer and boots" reference. Makes me feel even better now. I was hoping to mark her up good so I can stop feeling bad about how beautiful the darn thing is. I'll try to get a pic.
I love the way the forge finish has such a rough look, paired with the bright edge bevels and sides of the bit, just gorgeous. And no, I'm not upset about the iron reacting. Just kinda curious to what caused it. Thanks again for all the responses.

Btw, I'm now wondering how a polished bit would perform on this beast? But lets say I wanted not only the edge polished, but also up the bit to the point where the "forged" finish starts, how would I go about that? The edge needs sharpening anyways, but now i wanna get a bit creative. i think it would look even better and cut better too. What are your thoughts on this? Probably not necessary of course, but I may want to try it.

Thanks again guys!

Dave

I'll try to get a pic in a little bit if anyone wants to see it....
 
Someone somewhere is working up their business model for all purpose axe polish and will have it in axe boutiques nationwide shortly. Until then I would use something like Barkeepers Friend mildly abrasive counter cleaner.
 
A highly polished steel surface will be more resistant to rust simply because it presents less surface area to the air.
 
Axe boutiques.....You guys are a laugh I gotta come around here more:)
So, would a buffing wheel with paste on a drill work okay for a polished bit? I'm sure the bevel will be fine after the strop, but that extra area on the faces up to the forge finished part may make a good difference also? I'm thinking that may be my best bet as I don't have access to a grinder right now. I don't know, its kinda an impulse thing right now to polish the bit, but I'm going with it lol.
I was thinking it may help with rust too, and maybe a bit of chopping performance. Thanks!

dave
 
But lets say I wanted not only the edge polished, but also up the bit to the point where the "forged" finish starts, how would I go about that? The edge needs sharpening anyways, but now i wanna get a bit creative. i think it would look even better and cut better too. What are your thoughts on this? Probably not necessary of course, but I may want to try .
High polish looks great when paired with a forge finish IMO, even though it highlights every little scratch. I don't use my tools everyday, get a chance to sharpen and maintain them between use at my leisure. Quick clean up with fine sandpaper clamped in a drywall hand sander and twenty seconds on the buffer and they are ready. Form follows function....doesn't mean that they cant look good also.
ry%3D400

ry%3D400
 
Okay, this is exactly what I was thinking. Thanks for the pics. Drywall hand sander....I like that. I like that. I'm learning so much.

dave
 
Back
Top