Trends in spine thickness

shane wink

shane wink

Joined
Sep 14, 2010
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What are everyone's thoughts on the popular tend in buschraft knives with such thick spines? I ask beacause we were sitting around the firestation today and the guys asked me why my bush knives were 5/32. I replied with that was all I needed and I did not want the extra weight from an over built knife. Do y'all think the current trend in popular bush knives are too thick for their use?
 
Short answer? Yes.
If you're using the knife in such a way that you need a thicker spine on a bushcraft knife you're using the wrong tool. Having that super thick spine just makes it less effective at the tasks it's meant for. There's a place for thick heavy blades, bushcraft isn't one of them. They're big heavy choppers or knives you KNOW will get used as pry bars and wedges and hammers... Their actual slicing performance is being made secondary to other aspects.
 
I see lots of knives with thick spines and very low bevels.



The angles seem very fat to me.


I can always carry an axe or hatchet and get better utility than a thick knife.
 
I agree with you guys as testing the knives I make 5/32 O1 has been plenty. I see Aldo only has 1084 in 1/8 and 3/16ths. Do yall think I can get away with 1/8th on the style of blades I build and still get rough use from them using 1084 1/8th?

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1/8 = 4/32. . . I don't think 1/32 of an inch is going to be a significant deterrent to how the knife will perform.
 
The 1084 will take some cleaning up to get down to the clean flats like PG 01

if you want to, give it a try.
 
I have yet to damage any of my 1/8" 1084 knives in normal use. I've broken off really fine tips doing stupid stuff, but it generally gives plenty of warning, like bending and getting unbent a few times. lol
The only issue with thin steel is that it flexes more, particularly as you get less tall blades so there's less steel involved for a given length. Still, for a bushcraft role knife that's not an issue, it's not like it's a filet knife type flex. You just wouldn't want to be trying to lever rocks out of the way or something, you'll wind up with a bent knife.
 
12345678910 said:
The 1084 will take some cleaning up to get down to the clean flats like PG 01

if you want to, give it a try.
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Are you referring to the skin left on the stock from the pickle annealing? Hmm I am used to PG 01 so.I.may need just order the 3/16ths and sand it down to clean it up.

Thanks, I did not think of it not being PG.
 
I've batoned with 1/8" spines without a problem. I think it's silly to go past 1/4" thick, it just makes it much harder to slice anything effectively. Although I can see why the large knives might need such a spine, since one can apply more leverage to snap the blade. But in the smaller knives, going that thick is overbuilding, especially in folders.
 
1/8" will be plenty. I have not made a bushcraft knife in the 4" blade range that is thicker than 1/8". And I along with a bunch of other people have beaten the crap out of my knives without any issue. My blades were either O1 or CPM154.

Erratus Animus said:
I agree with you guys as testing the knives I make 5/32 O1 has been plenty. I see Aldo only has 1084 in 1/8 and 3/16ths. Do yall think I can get away with 1/8th on the style of blades I build and still get rough use from them using 1084 1/8th?

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Erratus Animus said:
Hmm I am used to PG 01 so.I.may need just order the 3/16ths and sand it down to clean it up.
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Aldo will surface-grind his stock for you for a small fee, call him for a quote. It's well worth it for stock-removal projects. It will still end up less expensive than PG-O1.

I agree that a final spine thickness of 1/8 - 5/32" is plenty for bushcraft/general utility knives. 1084 and O1 are both quite tough and will perform very well at those thicknesses, with a tall grind. I like your design; try grinding one even thinner and see if you like it. At the very worst, it will end up being a light "bird & trout" type knife with a bit of flex and a very keen bevel. :thumbup:
 
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Thanks James and I will try that. Ordered a stick of O1 and 1084 1/8th so we will see :)
 
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Personally I just use the thick stuff because its easier to keep straight, then again I am a noob and using an angle grinder instead of a band saw to cut the rough shape.
 
I think it is wonderful that as a custom maker, I have options. Using different geometries, stock thickness and profiles, we can fine tune a knife to the user's expectations. When we hash out the same arguments over and over about how everyone SHOULD make and use their knives it accomplishes little. If everyone's "bushcraft" technique/philosophy were the same, it might make sense but that is simply isn't the case. I say, "Long or short, thick or thin, all these options for the win!"

1/8" is no slouch for a potentially tough/strong knife that is still a great cutter. Obviously, thinner is better for slicing but thick spines have their place, too.
 
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Check out Christof Harper's stuff at Koyote knives, 1/8 thick stock for alot of it, does fine.
 
Rick Marchand said:
I say, "Long or short, thick or thin, all these options for the win!"
1/8" is no slouch for a potentially tough/strong knife that is still a great cutter. Obviously, thinner is better for slicing but thick spines have their place, too.
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That's fair :) It just depends who you ask; show me a 4-6 drop-point blade of 1/8" stock and I think "Bushcraft", great for food prep, woodcraft, building a light shelter, etc; and as you say, tougher than folks might think. Show me the same size blade with 3/16- 1/4" stock and I think "Combat" - it won't cut quite as well but will happily take a more severe pounding, in case you're attacked by the proverbial car door :p . That's just what rattles around in my head.
 
From the point of view of a knife manufacturer, the steep angles and thick spines are easier to make. Fixturing is easier and there is less issue with warping during HT.

...just saying....
 
James, we are both on the same page man.

james terrio said:
That's fair :) It just depends who you ask; show me a 4-6 drop-point blade of 1/8" stock and I think "Bushcraft", great for food prep, woodcraft, building a light shelter, etc; and as you say, tougher than folks might think. Show me the same size blade with 3/16- 1/4" stock and I think "Combat" - it won't cut quite as well but will happily take a more severe pounding, in case you're attacked by the proverbial car door :p . That's just what rattles around in my head.
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