TriAx Sharpener - Sharpmaker on Steroids!!

Either an item is loaned/donated or purchased by an individual who uses it for a period of time making his observations and then mails it to the next person on the list where they do the same. It allows several people to try out an item without having to pony up the cost. If they like it they can buy their own. Their are several passarounds going on with various knives on the forum. For the cost of shipping you can test out that new $xxx "thing" before you buy one.
 
I recommend reading the articles in the March/April '07 edition of Safari magazine and March/April '07 edition of the Shooting Sportsman magazine. Chuck Karwan, who is a mechanical engineer, wrote the Safari article. Tom Huggler wrote the Shooting Sprotsman article. Neither article pulls any punches. You can see the articles at our web site, www.triax-sharpeners.com.
 
You do not have to unclamp a Lansky/Gatco/DMT in order to sharpen the other side of the blade. There are guide slots on both sides.
 
stevekt, I was addressing repeatability between sharpenings. When you sharpen the knife and a month or so later you want to sharpen it again, there is no guarantee you can put it into the clamp and get exactly the same angle. It can be off 2 or 3 degrees and you would never know it.
 
main upside of my lansky is i can sit in my lounge chair and sharpen until im happy. The way I sharpen that's normally over an hour or so... Is this going to be heavy such that i'll need a table to sit it on?
Also, the main downside of the lansky, for me, is in full-height flat ground blades, which it can't handle. Is the triax able to cope with these?
 
tubezipper, it weighs less than 4 pounds. I have sharpened a 16" Bowie knife. I think it was a flat ground blade but please clarify what you mean by "full-height ground blades"?
 
Sorry for the delay in the reply, I have infrequent access to the internet.
I am referring to blades like the Spyderco Manix, Busse knives, etc. Blades which are ground flat to the spine, as opposed to a sabre grind. Can it clamp onto them? Because lansky's can't, and that's their main downfall for me.
 
As a new member of the forum, I've been following this thread with interest. Not being ready to tackle free hand sharpening, I've am using a Lansky diamond hone system on my new S30V knives. The drawback to the Lansky is that the narrowest angle of 17 degrees is not usable on my Spyderco Native or Alaskan Guide Buck 110. Buck recommends 13 to 16 degree sharpening angles for this knive, so I purchased a Gatco guide which has useable angles down to 15 degrees with small blades, if you are careful.
IMO the making of the option standard, of being able to take the TriAx down to 10 degree angle, with a 13 degree one thrown in, would make the the sharpener worth the money, because the optimum sharpening angle for high quality knives can be below 15 degrees. I know you freehanders do not like the guide systems, but with a Gatco or Lansky at half the cost, a newbie can do a decent job, it still limits you on angles to sharpen at though.
Thats my two cents worth, for what it's worth. I forgot to ask how much do the optional angles add to the TriAx's price, if any. I think you should make this standard, or a free option. Anyway the TriAx definitely interests me. Will give me more time for hunting.
 
Tubezipper: The four point design of the "clamping" device looks like it would work just fine with a full flat grind. Any primary grind that is symmetrical will likely work.

Grizrod: Yup, I can freehand sharpen but I use such hard steels that getting that ultra sharp edge is a pain. Enter: The Device. This device would be Great with more adjustability!
 
Enter: The Device. This device would be Great with more adjustability!
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sputnick,I really agree with you on that :D , sounds like you can buy one with the extra adjustability, I am waiting to find out if, or how much that costs. Someone with your sharpening experience opinions should carry a little more weight, then us newbies to the sharpening world. Maybe some more of the pros will jump here. I think us hunters are looking for the easiest system to use that will give the best results, IMHO.
 
tubezipper said:
Blades which are ground flat to the spine, as opposed to a sabre grind. Can it clamp onto them? Because lansky's can't, and that's their main downfall for me.
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The gatco has the same issue with hollow ground blades that curve right up to the spine.

I solved that problem by taping several layers of narrow strips to duct tape to the forward edge of the clamp. So, now I get 2 point contact, rather than just at the spine.
 
I don't see that this question has been answered yet, what size of knife with thumbstud will it sharpen? Or won't sharpen?

Also what's the grit of the diamond stones and ceramic stones?
 
tubezipper, I personally have not sharpened a Manix. But looking at the design of it, there shouldn't be any problem sharpening one.

DaveH, define "thumbstud". The diamond chip stones are approximately 250 grit. The round ceramic stick is approximately 320 grit.

S. Brock Presgrove, PE
TriAx CEO
 
Not sure what you mean when you asked to define a thumbstud. Are you looking for a specific example? If the "clamp" can move forward past the stones the only limiting factor should be height of the stud and blade in relation to the angle of the stones. In this example the clamp is more likely to contact the stones before the stud does, if of course the arm can even move far enough ahead of the stones to reach the heel while clamped on the blade in front of the studs. 320grit is a little coarse for my tastes although it will work fine for slicers. I like my chefs knife and wood blades to have a high polish.

710studuv3.jpg
 
sputnick, I see what you mean. You are right, you would have to place the clamp arms out past the stud. And yes, the clamp would contact the back side of the stone, not the stud.

In the near future I will offer a variety of stones. What would you consider a good range of different stones?

S. Brock Presgrove, PE
TriAx CEO
 
Got a call back from TriAx designer Brock Presgrove a couple of nights ago, after calling earlier in the day, with some questions about blade sharpening angles. Super nice guy to talk to, and he agreed with me that there is a need for sharpening angles of less then 15 degrees on knives with high quality steel, and they are offering optional angles, if one likes, not sure the cost, but it can't be that bad.

Also Brock posted a question as to what additional grit stones would improve the TriAx, so he is open to improving his product. I definitely am ordering one in the near future. I do not want to spend hours sharpening my S30V hunting knives. So if you have any suggestions give him a call, or post them on this forum.
 
As for grit I think a 600 and 1200 are reasonable grits and I'm not sure how practical a grit any higher would be in this application. A polishing stone or tape would be a nice finale. Do the stones have a significant backplate/mount?

Do you have the micron size of the abrasives? "Grit" often means different things to different manufacturers. Nortons 8k is someone elses 6k, etc. When regrinding an edge I use a 220 grit paper.

Grizrod: Make sure to take lots of pics and share your experience with us here on the forum. Can't wait to see some real consumer opinions of the triax in use.
 
And yes, the clamp would contact the back side of the stone, not the stud.
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So it does work with thumdstuds? Wouldn't this be something you shoud actually check?
 
"Grizrod: Make sure to take lots of pics and share your experience with us here on the forum. Can't wait to see some real consumer opinions of the triax in use."

I'll be ordering from Guyana, South America as I'm moving there this week. So I will only have access to the net through the internet cafes, will not have the capability or equipment for pictures. Sorry.
 
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