- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Messages
- 28
When you start to grind the edge on a blade made from flat stock, what are some of the tricks/methods you guys use to ensure that you grind it straight, centered and even on both sides?
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tricks/tips for grinding?
- Thread starter Celtic Archer
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2004
- Messages
- 3,041
-Scribe a center line along the blade edge.
-Grind at a 45 degree angle until you leave your final pre-HT thickness (about a dime width)
-Now start increasing the angle you are grinding at while not taking any more of the "edge" off. This removes material and begins your grind lines.
-Continue doing this until your grind line is where you want and "meets" the dime thickness edge you left.
-Repeat on other side, if your grind lines are the same height and meet at the same point on the edge, your angle is guaranteed to be the same.
Keeping those lines straight is simply a function of your skill at keeping the blade flat against the belt. Hold the knife at waist height and look down, watching both the shadow between the blade and belt and the stream of sparks to ensure you are grinding flat rather than digging in one side or another creating waves in the grind line.
Im sure others will have a ton more, but those are the basics.
-Grind at a 45 degree angle until you leave your final pre-HT thickness (about a dime width)
-Now start increasing the angle you are grinding at while not taking any more of the "edge" off. This removes material and begins your grind lines.
-Continue doing this until your grind line is where you want and "meets" the dime thickness edge you left.
-Repeat on other side, if your grind lines are the same height and meet at the same point on the edge, your angle is guaranteed to be the same.
Keeping those lines straight is simply a function of your skill at keeping the blade flat against the belt. Hold the knife at waist height and look down, watching both the shadow between the blade and belt and the stream of sparks to ensure you are grinding flat rather than digging in one side or another creating waves in the grind line.
Im sure others will have a ton more, but those are the basics.
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2006
- Messages
- 2,415
Use good belts and a slower speed to start, I recommend the norton blaze. When the material comes off easy you have alot more control. Rather than scribe a center line I scribe a line from both sides leaving about a dime worth of edge.
The reason for the 45 degree bevel is two fold, helps keep new grit from being scraped off the belt and gives you a guage to see when you are getting too close to the edge of the blade. When the 45 is all gone you need to be close to the top of the blade with your grind. If you leave just a little at the top and of the 45 after HT you can just finish with the same angle you left with and quickly get a nice finish.
The reason for the 45 degree bevel is two fold, helps keep new grit from being scraped off the belt and gives you a guage to see when you are getting too close to the edge of the blade. When the 45 is all gone you need to be close to the top of the blade with your grind. If you leave just a little at the top and of the 45 after HT you can just finish with the same angle you left with and quickly get a nice finish.
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2005
- Messages
- 834
Grind profile, ink entire edge, scribe mid-point line entirely around, tape front edge of ricasso, grind cutting edge to 1/16"-3/32" at a steep angle... like 90deg, included, grind more acute angle but not "finish angle". Step by step, grind spine-to-edge angle shallower until angle connects original edge grind and spine with flat inbetween.
If while grinding the top-line of the grind has dips, the angle there is less acute... has more metal. I try to straighten as I go. That is, not make full passes and continue to take metal off the areas already shalower, but that's me...
Some use file-guides for plunge cut, some cut them straight in by hand, some slide into plunge cut from light contact out in front, some switch belt so plunge cut is made with same side of belt (no two belt edges flex the same), some don't switch belt but turn blade over to cut plunge (same belt edge, same platen edge, same belt over hang setting).
Mike
Edit: Huh! The world kept turning over the past 10 minutes!
If while grinding the top-line of the grind has dips, the angle there is less acute... has more metal. I try to straighten as I go. That is, not make full passes and continue to take metal off the areas already shalower, but that's me...
Some use file-guides for plunge cut, some cut them straight in by hand, some slide into plunge cut from light contact out in front, some switch belt so plunge cut is made with same side of belt (no two belt edges flex the same), some don't switch belt but turn blade over to cut plunge (same belt edge, same platen edge, same belt over hang setting).
Mike
Edit: Huh! The world kept turning over the past 10 minutes!
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,418
I like to scribe a double line. If you don't have a line scribe, you can use a drill bit. Pick one that is slightly smaller than your steel, drag your profile down the bit on a flat surface, flip the blade and do it again. Works in a pinch, drills are kind of a pain sometimes and a line scribe works better. If you get those lines the right width apart you can take each side to your line and be at final grind thickness.