Triforge Sigyn Work in Progress pics

Triforge

Triforge

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Sep 3, 2012
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Sigyn, the Norse Goddess of Loyalty. This knife is made of 52100 Carbon steel. Edit: Changing the grind to a Scandi/Saber. I think It'll look nice since it has a belly.
photo 1-10.jpgphoto 2-10.jpg
 
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52100(a high carbon steel with 1.3-1.6% chromium)is a great steel when it gets a proper heat treat and edge geometry. A scandi grind won't really work IMO, it would look bad and leave the tip too fragile. A modified saber/full flat grind could work, but it's going to be difficult to get the distal taper perfect on this blade (just like the last one). Have you considered making a jig and doing the bevel or at least the plunge line with files? I know this is just an early wip pic, but the handle looks uncomfortable(think tongue depressor), and the basic outline/shape already appears uneven/asymmetrical. A jig would help with some of those issues. You may also want to ask the more experienced guys if you need to anneal the blade before grinding or sending out for heat treat. The steel appears to have been "burnt" along the edges where there is color change. My only other recommendations would be start with a simpler more traditional design( I know, too late lol), and consider a name change or modification (Triforge) until you actually start forging steel. Keep up the good work, and let us know how it goes!
 
91wm6 said:
52100(a high carbon steel with 1.3-1.6% chromium)is a great steel when it gets a proper heat treat and edge geometry. A scandi grind won't really work IMO, it would look bad and leave the tip too fragile. A modified saber/full flat grind could work, but it's going to be difficult to get the distal taper perfect on this blade (just like the last one). Have you considered making a jig and doing the bevel or at least the plunge line with files? I know this is just an early wip pic, but the handle looks uncomfortable(think tongue depressor), and the basic outline/shape already appears uneven/asymmetrical. A jig would help with some of those issues. You may also want to ask the more experienced guys if you need to anneal the blade before grinding or sending out for heat treat. The steel appears to have been "burnt" along the edges where there is color change. My only other recommendations would be start with a simpler more traditional design( I know, too late lol), and consider a name change or modification (Triforge) until you actually start forging steel. Keep up the good work, and let us know how it goes!
Click to expand...
I actually have two cut out, I scrapped this one, realizing the exact same thing about it. So yes I'm going with a flat grind. EDIT: I don't really think the name is a big matter.
 
So I considered what 91wm6 said and I decided to with a bit more traditional design so here's Sigyn V2 photo-10.jpg
 
Part 2 looks much better
 
Looking good!

I'd like to point out that 52100 will work well for just about any grind you want depending on heat treat and geometry.

The burnt edges are really nothing to worry about as long as they are before heat treat. I like to avoid them as I feel uneven or over heating can cause warping during heat treat but they will not effect final hardness, etc. A normalizing step would be a great idea to remove stress during heat treat.

You might want a small palm swell when you shape the scales to give an "egg" shape to the handle but that is up to you. I like some handles to index and some to be more round... even some to be flat. I think when you are first starting out it is best to avoid the flatter styles and go for more of a coke bottle shape. The handle shapes look good to me though, I think a Japanese style cord wrap would be very cool with the first one.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Looking good!

I'd like to point out that 52100 will work well for just about any grind you want depending on heat treat and geometry.

The burnt edges are really nothing to worry about as long as they are before heat treat. I like to avoid them as I feel uneven or over heating can cause warping during heat treat but they will not effect final hardness, etc. A normalizing step would be a great idea to remove stress during heat treat.

You might want a small palm swell when you shape the scales to give an "egg" shape to the handle but that is up to you. I like some handles to index and some to be more round... even some to be flat. I think when you are first starting out it is best to avoid the flatter styles and go for more of a coke bottle shape. The handle shapes look good to me though, I think a Japanese style cord wrap would be very cool with the first one.
Click to expand...
Hi Daniel, I have no idea how to do the cord wrap, and if it'll require milling out the middle of the handle it wouldn't work as I do not have a milling machine. I will probably use G-10, since it's easier to work with and I can texture it and I'll try for the "egg" shape.
 
Knifetten said:
Hi Daniel, I have no idea how to do the cord wrap, and if it'll require milling out the middle of the handle it wouldn't work as I do not have a milling machine. I will probably use G-10, since it's easier to work with and I can texture it and I'll try for the "egg" shape.
Click to expand...

That sounds good, I'd go with G10 too. If it was me I'd focus on that for a bit and do wraps later.

For the style of wrap I am talking about you would need to drill a hole but no milling is required. Look up tsuka-maki wraps, you can do one with shoelaces or para cord too. You'd need some good epoxy for fabric too...

The handle thing is a matter of opinion but everyone wants a good handle, check Loveless knives for a great example of well done handle. I hope all of this helps!
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
That sounds good, I'd go with G10 too. If it was me I'd focus on that for a bit and do wraps later.

For the style of wrap I am talking about you would need to drill a hole but no milling is required. Look up tsuka-maki wraps, you can do one with shoelaces or para cord too. You'd need some good epoxy for fabric too...

The handle thing is a matter of opinion but everyone wants a good handle, check Loveless knives for a great example of well done handle. I hope all of this helps!
Click to expand...
Loveless handles looks great and very very well contoured. I'll need thicker G-10 to do anything even remotely close.
 
photo 1.jpgphoto 2.jpg
Sigyn V2, cut out, it isn't ground yet, just de-burred from cutting. There is a hotspot on the butt of the knife, needs to be ground down a bit. Do I need liners in the handles?
 
I've decided to wait until I get my Pheer Grinder to continue the Sigyn, since problems with my current grinder makes it very very very hard to make even grinds.
 
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